I have a 02' S-Type. This is my 2nd Master Cylinder that I replaced and I also got brakes bled Fully. I don't have no lost of brake fluid.

Problem is: My Brakes goes to the ground & its not stopping at its full potential. It's very scary at times holding brakes during Traffic conditions! Whats the problem with my braking system??! Please help adap thanks

 

You have air trapped some where.

Just some ideas, is there a special step when bleeding the brakes required to make sure there is no air trapped in the abs mod? On other cars I've had to disconnect the abs mod. When bleeding the brakes.

I have also in the past switched sides and put the brake caliper on upside down, within bleed screws on the bottoms of the calipers.

When you installed the new master did you bench bleed it?

 

+1 master itself may have air trapped in it, bench bleeding the master is a good idea before mounting it to the booster.

ABS module and the upward pointed lines I think is one of the highest points in the system which may result in air getting trapped inside.

Doing a major brake overhaul recently, I drained all the brake fluid out of the system. I bled them the old fashioned way, and it came out satisfactory, but not perfect.

I purchased and used a MOTIVE POWER BLEEDER this past weekend. Made a good difference and helped bring out every last air bubble out of the system. The rear brakes seemed to have trapped the most air and took the most time to clear out. Consider using one of these to get the perfect bleed.

 

Hello,

If system is air free, and you still have this issue.
I would first replace all 4 Hoses going to the brake calipers.
Have seem it before that they get flexible inside.
Mostly on older cars, it all 10 years old now.

Regards,
Peter Jan
S-type 1999

 

Great advice from all prodigy, of course bring her to a professional if cont. to b stumped.

 

Thanks alot for replies guys, i will try what you guys told me and let you know how i made out. Thanks again!

 

Do you guys know which Motive Power Bleeder to purchase for my car?? I see several different models & makes for different vehicles

 

One other point to raise. When you finish bleeding to last rear wheel do the diagonal front wheel next.
Another snake that once bit me is do not crack the bleed nipple more than 1/8 of a turn - just enough to establish a flow.. You want to avoid drawing in air around the nipple threads.

 

I have a 1999 S type. Before I start, can anyone advise me if I have a screw in Piston, on the rear brakes. ie. Do I need a special tool

 

My car is a 2000 and it does so I would assume a 1999 is the same. This link will show you how I did mine.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I hope this helps.

 

I bought a special tool from Harbor Freight and it didn't fit my piston. Ended up using a pair of needle nose pliers that worked fine.

 

Use caution with the pliers!! Very easy to slip and tear up the piston boot. All the auto parts stores loan the proper tool. Please use it as it's free of charge.
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Help
I have the 1999 S Type jacked up on stands with the cube tool. Like someone said before, the tool may not be the right type, and sure enough, it's not quite suitable. I have managed to screw the piston, enough both ways, but with difficulty with the tool I have. Basically, I'm still not sure if the right hand side screws the piston in by turning ACW, and the left hand side CW. ie. always turning towards the back of the vehicle. I could be here all day if I have to struggle with this tool. I believe I am past the point of no return!
Also, How do I release the handbrake cable more. Adjustment? or brute force pulling with plyers.
Really appreciate your help anyone

 

You have to push the piston inwards at the same time you turn. Turning alone won't do much.

 

Thanks Mikey
But...As I said, if I now ACW or CW, that would really help me. Thanks in anticipation

 

I believe it's clockwise, both sides.

 

If I remember correctly it is clockwise to screw back in both sides too.

Did you grind/hacksaw 2 of the pins off the 4 pin side of the cube off? Also it may help to bolt the caliper back onto the hub without the rotor on and really push hard inward while turning.

 

Gary when I used the cube for an 03 MY that was really difficult to reset the calipers, I found that the cube (below) fit the best when I ground 2 of the pins off, picture is worth a thousand words:

 

I don't know what happened to my last post? I am new as you can see, and may be it's linked to something else. So, I'll try again, and probably repeating myself!!!
I looked at the cube, thinking the same thing (grinding the 2 posts off), but decided to visit the local garage and borrow a tool
I had a little trouble putting the bolts in as the caliper would not align. There are 2 locating posts on the pad, that seem to need to align with the piston keyways (used for the tool). It wasn't until I had the piston keyways vertical, that I could get it to align. This doesn't quite make sense to me, because the Piston rotates as it comes out (I think). The brakes work fine. But, could I have the wrong pads? What am I missing?
Also, I was surprised that the brake fluid reservoir top up tank hardly moved up. Does the Jag have a big volume, and it's diplacement is minimal, with the pistons now further back in the housing.?
One last comment, although I look forward to replies on the above...I have been impressed with quick and helpful responses from this forum. I hope I can look forward to such quality of help in the future