Changing Front Shocks and Bushing Removal kit Questions
#1
12-06-2018, 07:53 PM
Changing Front Shocks and Bushing Removal kit Questions
I have a 2005 S-type and at 106K the shocks are showing signs of diminished damping, ect. (as further info, I have no rust and the car has been garaged for most of the life I have had it). I have purchased replacements and the rears are a piece of cake from the Alldata instructions. (please correct me If that is incorrect).
The fronts do not appear to be a major problem, BUT
A couple of questions so I do not hit a pitfall and waste much time or end up with a non-driving car.
1. When removing the bolt that will release the upper control arm- has anyone had any trouble with either the 18mm (what a weird size) bolt coming loose and any problem with detaching the upper arm? If there was a problem, what was your solution?
2. Any serious issue, minus extreme rust (which I do not have at all) with getting the T-60 Torx bolt loose on the lower part of the shock?
3. And this is my major concern- I am not sure, but think there is (of course the passenger side) a problem with the shock absorber bushing. I have zero desire to remove the whole control arm and run off to a shop with a press and know there are many bush install and removal kits to do the job. In fact in Alldata they have the parts number's for a series of tools to do that, but I am not paying $400 or more for a one time use. So anyone that decided to remove the shock bushing - what was your technique and was there a tool kit you found that fit that job along with installing a new one?
4. Any other hints or words of warning that you think will be useful to do this job.
As always, I appreciate your help and suggestions.
Thanks
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S- Type 3.0 106K
The fronts do not appear to be a major problem, BUT
A couple of questions so I do not hit a pitfall and waste much time or end up with a non-driving car.
1. When removing the bolt that will release the upper control arm- has anyone had any trouble with either the 18mm (what a weird size) bolt coming loose and any problem with detaching the upper arm? If there was a problem, what was your solution?
2. Any serious issue, minus extreme rust (which I do not have at all) with getting the T-60 Torx bolt loose on the lower part of the shock?
3. And this is my major concern- I am not sure, but think there is (of course the passenger side) a problem with the shock absorber bushing. I have zero desire to remove the whole control arm and run off to a shop with a press and know there are many bush install and removal kits to do the job. In fact in Alldata they have the parts number's for a series of tools to do that, but I am not paying $400 or more for a one time use. So anyone that decided to remove the shock bushing - what was your technique and was there a tool kit you found that fit that job along with installing a new one?
4. Any other hints or words of warning that you think will be useful to do this job.
As always, I appreciate your help and suggestions.
Thanks
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S- Type 3.0 106K
#2
12-06-2018, 09:31 PM
I don't type so great but here goes..I just replaced both of those front lower arms on my car because all I wanted to get to was the bushings. I ended up replacing the arms because I got both arms off of eBay for $102 delivered. This is the way I did it. After taking the tire off remove the upper arm ball joint and push the arm up. Remove the sway bar link and the tie rod from the knuckle. The knuckle will now pivot allowing easy access to the lower ball joint .Loosen the ball joint nut and break it loose from the knuckle. Here is where a helper is nice for knuckle removal and installation. Now it is easy to get the lower shock bolt loose then out..I used a breaker bar with the torx bit and it was easy. Again with a helper take the 4 nuts of the upper shock mount and remove. The arm is now easy access and simple to swap out ....reverse the dissammbly and you are done. The first one took 1.5 hrs . The second took 40 minutes because of the learning curve. If you just want to do the bushings, eBay sells a nice bushings screw type press kit for 94 bucks...I am getting one to do the rear bushings...another thing is with the arms out I found small chunks of rubber missing on the large bushings so I am glad I did the entire arm..a helper is not absolutely necessary but it sure made it a lot easier.I did not have to use any air tools so that was a plus.if I missed something or something is not clear because of my bad spelling let me know .buyautoparts.com is the direct website....free ship 99 dollars or more....by the way the front shock bushings are $50 a pair so that's another reason I just replace the whole arm
.
.
Last edited by scottjh9; 12-06-2018 at 09:36 PM. Reason: Addition
#3
12-06-2018, 10:06 PM
I don't type so great but here goes..I just replaced both of those front lower arms on my car because all I wanted to get to was the bushings. I ended up replacing the arms because I got both arms off of eBay for $102 delivered. This is the way I did it. After taking the tire off remove the upper arm ball joint and push the arm up. Remove the sway bar link and the tie rod from the knuckle. The knuckle will now pivot allowing easy access to the lower ball joint .Loosen the ball joint nut and break it loose from the knuckle. Here is where a helper is nice for knuckle removal and installation. Now it is easy to get the lower shock bolt loose then out..I used a breaker bar with the torx bit and it was easy. Again with a helper take the 4 nuts of the upper shock mount and remove. The arm is now easy access and simple to swap out ....reverse the dissammbly and you are done. The first one took 1.5 hrs . The second took 40 minutes because of the learning curve. If you just want to do the bushings, eBay sells a nice bushings screw type press kit for 94 bucks...I am getting one to do the rear bushings...another thing is with the arms out I found small chunks of rubber missing on the large bushings so I am glad I did the entire arm..a helper is not absolutely necessary but it sure made it a lot easier.I did not have to use any air tools so that was a plus.if I missed something or something is not clear because of my bad spelling let me know .buyautoparts.com is the direct website....free ship 99 dollars or more....by the way the front shock bushings are $50 a pair so that's another reason I just replace the whole arm
.
.
That was the way i read everything as well and that none of it is very hard. I really don't need to replace the whole control arm, just one shock bushing on one side, but I would do both if I did one.
Do you have a link to the Ebay sale for the bushings screw type press kit? I cannot seem to locate the one you are talking about. I have found the bushings for $46 there.
Alldate gives this caution:
5: CAUTION: Make sure the wheel knuckle is supported. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the vehicle.
Detach the upper arm.- Lower the vehicle.
Thanks again.
Tom
Just an interesting PS- Alldata has one removing the entire steering gear to replace the rear lower control arm.
#4
12-06-2018, 11:05 PM
Thanks Scott: Your typing was good enough!
That was the way i read everything as well and that none of it is very hard. I really don't need to replace the whole control arm, just one shock bushing on one side, but I would do both if I did one.
Do you have a link to the Ebay sale for the bushings screw type press kit? I cannot seem to locate the one you are talking about. I have found the bushings for $46 there.
Alldate gives this caution:
Thanks again.
Tom
Just an interesting PS- Alldata has one removing the entire steering gear to replace the rear lower control arm.
That was the way i read everything as well and that none of it is very hard. I really don't need to replace the whole control arm, just one shock bushing on one side, but I would do both if I did one.
Do you have a link to the Ebay sale for the bushings screw type press kit? I cannot seem to locate the one you are talking about. I have found the bushings for $46 there.
Alldate gives this caution:
5: CAUTION: Make sure the wheel knuckle is supported. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the vehicle.
Detach the upper arm.- Lower the vehicle.
Thanks again.
Tom
Just an interesting PS- Alldata has one removing the entire steering gear to replace the rear lower control arm.
Last edited by scottjh9; 12-07-2018 at 12:13 AM. Reason: Addition
The following users liked this post:
jazzwineman (12-07-2018)
#5
12-10-2018, 01:48 PM
I have a 2005 S-type and at 106K the shocks are showing signs of diminished damping, ect. (as further info, I have no rust and the car has been garaged for most of the life I have had it). I have purchased replacements and the rears are a piece of cake from the Alldata instructions. (please correct me If that is incorrect).
The fronts do not appear to be a major problem, BUT
A couple of questions so I do not hit a pitfall and waste much time or end up with a non-driving car.
1. When removing the bolt that will release the upper control arm- has anyone had any trouble with either the 18mm (what a weird size) bolt coming loose and any problem with detaching the upper arm? If there was a problem, what was your solution?
I attempted to remove the 18 mm bolts but both the bolts were seized due to rust. I ended up cut the both bolts with saw all. I did purchased two new control arms a heade of time for $65.00 . Just google for Ford Thunderbird or lincoln LS front upper control arms. they are the same but way cheaper.
2. Any serious issue, minus extreme rust (which I do not have at all) with getting the T-60 Torx bolt loose on the lower part of the shock? My professional 1/2 inch air impact wrench could not loosen the T-60 bolts. I soaked with penetrating oil overnight and used a long cheater bar extension to slight loosen the bolts. I used air impact wrench after the bolts were slight loosen. I believed blue loctite to be use when re install.
3. And this is my major concern- I am not sure, but think there is (of course the passenger side) a problem with the shock absorber bushing. I have zero desire to remove the whole control arm and run off to a shop with a press and know there are many bush install and removal kits to do the job. In fact in Alldata they have the parts number's for a series of tools to do that, but I am not paying $400 or more for a one time use. So anyone that decided to remove the shock bushing - what was your technique and was there a tool kit you found that fit that job along with installing a new one?
I bought these
https://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-63262.html?cid=paid_google_pla_main_newproductsgen eral_63262&gclid=Cj0KCQiAurjgBRCqARIsAD09sg-M3dVJmqk_Y7v-m-kWJbeDQeMgyOvTFTotQ67_IDxGGVwWCamg_PIaArFgEALw_wcB
but I had to modified with longer steel rods and new nuts like these to compress spring
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Standard-sa...are/4294625942
Its very simple to replace shock absorber bushing once spring compressed.
4. Any other hints or words of warning that you think will be useful to do this job.
As always, I appreciate your help and suggestions.
Thanks
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S- Type 3.0 106K
The fronts do not appear to be a major problem, BUT
A couple of questions so I do not hit a pitfall and waste much time or end up with a non-driving car.
1. When removing the bolt that will release the upper control arm- has anyone had any trouble with either the 18mm (what a weird size) bolt coming loose and any problem with detaching the upper arm? If there was a problem, what was your solution?
I attempted to remove the 18 mm bolts but both the bolts were seized due to rust. I ended up cut the both bolts with saw all. I did purchased two new control arms a heade of time for $65.00 . Just google for Ford Thunderbird or lincoln LS front upper control arms. they are the same but way cheaper.
2. Any serious issue, minus extreme rust (which I do not have at all) with getting the T-60 Torx bolt loose on the lower part of the shock? My professional 1/2 inch air impact wrench could not loosen the T-60 bolts. I soaked with penetrating oil overnight and used a long cheater bar extension to slight loosen the bolts. I used air impact wrench after the bolts were slight loosen. I believed blue loctite to be use when re install.
3. And this is my major concern- I am not sure, but think there is (of course the passenger side) a problem with the shock absorber bushing. I have zero desire to remove the whole control arm and run off to a shop with a press and know there are many bush install and removal kits to do the job. In fact in Alldata they have the parts number's for a series of tools to do that, but I am not paying $400 or more for a one time use. So anyone that decided to remove the shock bushing - what was your technique and was there a tool kit you found that fit that job along with installing a new one?
I bought these
https://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-63262.html?cid=paid_google_pla_main_newproductsgen eral_63262&gclid=Cj0KCQiAurjgBRCqARIsAD09sg-M3dVJmqk_Y7v-m-kWJbeDQeMgyOvTFTotQ67_IDxGGVwWCamg_PIaArFgEALw_wcB
but I had to modified with longer steel rods and new nuts like these to compress spring
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Standard-sa...are/4294625942
Its very simple to replace shock absorber bushing once spring compressed.
4. Any other hints or words of warning that you think will be useful to do this job.
As always, I appreciate your help and suggestions.
Thanks
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S- Type 3.0 106K
The fronts do not appear to be a major problem, BUT
A couple of questions so I do not hit a pitfall and waste much time or end up with a non-driving car.
1. When removing the bolt that will release the upper control arm- has anyone had any trouble with either the 18mm (what a weird size) bolt coming loose and any problem with detaching the upper arm? If there was a problem, what was your solution?
I attempted to remove the 18 mm bolts but both the bolts were seized due to rust. I ended up cut the both bolts with saw all. I did purchased two new control arms a head head of time for $65.00 . Just google for Ford Thunderbird or lincoln LS front upper control arms. they are the same but way cheaper.
2. Any serious issue, minus extreme rust (which I do not have at all) with getting the T-60 Torx bolt loose on the lower part of the shock? My professional 1/2 inch air impact wrench could not loosen the T-60 bolts. I soaked with penetrating oil overnight and used a long cheater bar extension to slight loosen the bolts. I used air impact wrench after the bolts were slight loosen. I believed blue loctite to be use when re install.
3. And this is my major concern- I am not sure, but think there is (of course the passenger side) a problem with the shock absorber bushing. I have zero desire to remove the whole control arm and run off to a shop with a press and know there are many bush install and removal kits to do the job. In fact in Alldata they have the parts number's for a series of tools to do that, but I am not paying $400 or more for a one time use. So anyone that decided to remove the shock bushing - what was your technique and was there a tool kit you found that fit that job along with installing a new one?
I bought these
https://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-63262.html?cid=paid_google_pla_main_newproductsgen eral_63262&gclid=Cj0KCQiAurjgBRCqARIsAD09sg-M3dVJmqk_Y7v-m-kWJbeDQeMgyOvTFTotQ67_IDxGGVwWCamg_PIaArFgEALw_wcB
but I had to modified with longer steel rods and new nuts like these to compress spring
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Standard-sa...are/4294625942
Its very simple to replace shock absorber bushing once spring compressed.
4. Any other hints or words of warning that you think will be useful to do this job.
As always, I appreciate your help and suggestions.
Thanks
#6
12-10-2018, 04:05 PM
UOTE=jazzwineman;1997867]I have a 2005 S-type and at 106K the shocks are showing signs of diminished damping, ect. (as further info, I have no rust and the car has been garaged for most of the life I have had it). I have purchased replacements and the rears are a piece of cake from the Alldata instructions. (please correct me If that is incorrect).
The fronts do not appear to be a major problem, BUT
A couple of questions so I do not hit a pitfall and waste much time or end up with a non-driving car.
1. When removing the bolt that will release the upper control arm- has anyone had any trouble with either the 18mm (what a weird size) bolt coming loose and any problem with detaching the upper arm? If there was a problem, what was your solution?
I attempted to remove the 18 mm bolts but both the bolts were seized due to rust. I ended up cut the both bolts with saw all. I did purchased two new control arms a head head of time for $65.00 . Just google for Ford Thunderbird or lincoln LS front upper control arms. they are the same but way cheaper.
2. Any serious issue, minus extreme rust (which I do not have at all) with getting the T-60 Torx bolt loose on the lower part of the shock? My professional 1/2 inch air impact wrench could not loosen the T-60 bolts. I soaked with penetrating oil overnight and used a long cheater bar extension to slight loosen the bolts. I used air impact wrench after the bolts were slight loosen. I believed blue loctite to be use when re install.
3. And this is my major concern- I am not sure, but think there is (of course the passenger side) a problem with the shock absorber bushing. I have zero desire to remove the whole control arm and run off to a shop with a press and know there are many bush install and removal kits to do the job. In fact in Alldata they have the parts number's for a series of tools to do that, but I am not paying $400 or more for a one time use. So anyone that decided to remove the shock bushing - what was your technique and was there a tool kit you found that fit that job along with installing a new one?
I bought these
https://www.harborfreight.com/macphe...IaArFgEALw_wcB
but I had to modified with longer steel rods and new nuts like these to compress spring
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Standard-sa...are/4294625942
Its very simple to replace shock absorber bushing once spring compressed.
4. Any other hints or words of warning that you think will be useful to do this job.
As always, I appreciate your help and suggestions.
Thanks
The fronts do not appear to be a major problem, BUT
A couple of questions so I do not hit a pitfall and waste much time or end up with a non-driving car.
1. When removing the bolt that will release the upper control arm- has anyone had any trouble with either the 18mm (what a weird size) bolt coming loose and any problem with detaching the upper arm? If there was a problem, what was your solution?
I attempted to remove the 18 mm bolts but both the bolts were seized due to rust. I ended up cut the both bolts with saw all. I did purchased two new control arms a head head of time for $65.00 . Just google for Ford Thunderbird or lincoln LS front upper control arms. they are the same but way cheaper.
2. Any serious issue, minus extreme rust (which I do not have at all) with getting the T-60 Torx bolt loose on the lower part of the shock? My professional 1/2 inch air impact wrench could not loosen the T-60 bolts. I soaked with penetrating oil overnight and used a long cheater bar extension to slight loosen the bolts. I used air impact wrench after the bolts were slight loosen. I believed blue loctite to be use when re install.
3. And this is my major concern- I am not sure, but think there is (of course the passenger side) a problem with the shock absorber bushing. I have zero desire to remove the whole control arm and run off to a shop with a press and know there are many bush install and removal kits to do the job. In fact in Alldata they have the parts number's for a series of tools to do that, but I am not paying $400 or more for a one time use. So anyone that decided to remove the shock bushing - what was your technique and was there a tool kit you found that fit that job along with installing a new one?
I bought these
https://www.harborfreight.com/macphe...IaArFgEALw_wcB
but I had to modified with longer steel rods and new nuts like these to compress spring
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Standard-sa...are/4294625942
Its very simple to replace shock absorber bushing once spring compressed.
4. Any other hints or words of warning that you think will be useful to do this job.
As always, I appreciate your help and suggestions.
Thanks
Tom
#7
12-10-2018, 05:02 PM
Veteran Member
Replacing the lower control arm which the shock bolts onto is the easier and possibly cheaper way.
Ive looked into buying the 6 bushes and finding a press company where I live. No luck finding a pressing company. However after a determined hunt on ebay I found pattern lower arms for my car complete with new bushes. I've got one arm here and I will order the other side next week. Then I'm going to order a set of new nuts and bolts for the whole job from Jaguar (£40) Cutting the rusted bolts out and replacing with new is the plan.
It makes the job easier and cheaper for me this way. Total parts will be £250 plus the new shocks which I've already got. Jaguar want £600 each side just for the control arms
Ive looked into buying the 6 bushes and finding a press company where I live. No luck finding a pressing company. However after a determined hunt on ebay I found pattern lower arms for my car complete with new bushes. I've got one arm here and I will order the other side next week. Then I'm going to order a set of new nuts and bolts for the whole job from Jaguar (£40) Cutting the rusted bolts out and replacing with new is the plan.
It makes the job easier and cheaper for me this way. Total parts will be £250 plus the new shocks which I've already got. Jaguar want £600 each side just for the control arms
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#8
12-10-2018, 05:05 PM
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Location: Newport Beach, California
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#9
12-10-2018, 05:12 PM
UOTE=jazzwineman;1997867]I have a 2005 S-type and at 106K the shocks are showing signs of diminished damping, ect. (as further info, I have no rust and the car has been garaged for most of the life I have had it). I have purchased replacements and the rears are a piece of cake from the Alldata instructions. (please correct me If that is incorrect).
The fronts do not appear to be a major problem, BUT
A couple of questions so I do not hit a pitfall and waste much time or end up with a non-driving car.
1. When removing the bolt that will release the upper control arm- has anyone had any trouble with either the 18mm (what a weird size) bolt coming loose and any problem with detaching the upper arm? If there was a problem, what was your solution?
I attempted to remove the 18 mm bolts but both the bolts were seized due to rust. I ended up cut the both bolts with saw all. I did purchased two new control arms a head head of time for $65.00 . Just google for Ford Thunderbird or lincoln LS front upper control arms. they are the same but way cheaper.
2. Any serious issue, minus extreme rust (which I do not have at all) with getting the T-60 Torx bolt loose on the lower part of the shock? My professional 1/2 inch air impact wrench could not loosen the T-60 bolts. I soaked with penetrating oil overnight and used a long cheater bar extension to slight loosen the bolts. I used air impact wrench after the bolts were slight loosen. I believed blue loctite to be use when re install.
3. And this is my major concern- I am not sure, but think there is (of course the passenger side) a problem with the shock absorber bushing. I have zero desire to remove the whole control arm and run off to a shop with a press and know there are many bush install and removal kits to do the job. In fact in Alldata they have the parts number's for a series of tools to do that, but I am not paying $400 or more for a one time use. So anyone that decided to remove the shock bushing - what was your technique and was there a tool kit you found that fit that job along with installing a new one?
I bought these
https://www.harborfreight.com/macphe...IaArFgEALw_wcB
but I had to modified with longer steel rods and new nuts like these to compress spring
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Standard-sa...are/4294625942
Its very simple to replace shock absorber bushing once spring compressed.
4. Any other hints or words of warning that you think will be useful to do this job.
As always, I appreciate your help and suggestions.
Thanks
The fronts do not appear to be a major problem, BUT
A couple of questions so I do not hit a pitfall and waste much time or end up with a non-driving car.
1. When removing the bolt that will release the upper control arm- has anyone had any trouble with either the 18mm (what a weird size) bolt coming loose and any problem with detaching the upper arm? If there was a problem, what was your solution?
I attempted to remove the 18 mm bolts but both the bolts were seized due to rust. I ended up cut the both bolts with saw all. I did purchased two new control arms a head head of time for $65.00 . Just google for Ford Thunderbird or lincoln LS front upper control arms. they are the same but way cheaper.
2. Any serious issue, minus extreme rust (which I do not have at all) with getting the T-60 Torx bolt loose on the lower part of the shock? My professional 1/2 inch air impact wrench could not loosen the T-60 bolts. I soaked with penetrating oil overnight and used a long cheater bar extension to slight loosen the bolts. I used air impact wrench after the bolts were slight loosen. I believed blue loctite to be use when re install.
3. And this is my major concern- I am not sure, but think there is (of course the passenger side) a problem with the shock absorber bushing. I have zero desire to remove the whole control arm and run off to a shop with a press and know there are many bush install and removal kits to do the job. In fact in Alldata they have the parts number's for a series of tools to do that, but I am not paying $400 or more for a one time use. So anyone that decided to remove the shock bushing - what was your technique and was there a tool kit you found that fit that job along with installing a new one?
I bought these
https://www.harborfreight.com/macphe...IaArFgEALw_wcB
but I had to modified with longer steel rods and new nuts like these to compress spring
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Standard-sa...are/4294625942
Its very simple to replace shock absorber bushing once spring compressed.
4. Any other hints or words of warning that you think will be useful to do this job.
As always, I appreciate your help and suggestions.
Thanks
Thanks
Tom
#10
12-10-2018, 05:19 PM
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
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jazzwineman (12-10-2018)
#11
12-10-2018, 05:21 PM
#12
12-10-2018, 05:26 PM
I have a (perhaps silly question- so tell me that if you think so) The only problem I think I have is the passenger side lower shock bushing. I do not have rust or corrosion. I appear on that side to have diminished rubber on what is the rubber part of the bushing and that leads to a squeak on occasion (one that the Jag dealer could never find when under warranty.- they just find your money clip) and I could use a non-petroleum based silicon lube and away it would go for months. This is the bush from Rock auto and they are made by Beck- Arnley (only $20) The metal part is not my problem. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4393227&cc=1430946&jsn=377.
At Jag repair Gus removed the rubber piece before insertion and then replaced it:
See pic 1- his note was:"When I examined the old bushing when it was out I noticed that the 1 1/8 in socket pinched the seal and bent the lip that holds it so I elected to remove the seal from the new bushing and found that my 1 ¼ in socket did not touch the lip so I used it to push the new one in place".
See pic 2- his note was:
"After the bushing was installed I reinstalled the seal"
Is there any reason why I could just not remove the wire holding in the bushing on both side and using his technique= put on new ones taken off the new set that I am buying.
I do not like to get into a huge learning curve to do something the first time and find myself minus a car and have to have it towed somewhere and spends the thousands they love you to spend on these front ends.
TBB
Last edited by jazzwineman; 12-10-2018 at 06:00 PM.
#13
12-10-2018, 05:37 PM
I was quite certain that was what it was, just different terminology depending on the year or something to that effect. Jag sometimes, does not appear to have a naming structure that remains the same for all of it parts. I have found that out from my Alldata account to Rock Auto to the deanship part dept.
TBB
T
TBB
T
#14
12-10-2018, 05:43 PM
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