I replaced the DCCV and I fixed 2 burnt traces on the RCCM (I have nav). I get hot air on any setting from lo to the highest before hi. When I go to hi it gets really hot. The passenger side is hotter than driver's at any setting which it was before repairs. The temperature doesn't seem different than before, but I never tried hi before the repairs. With the engine cool I get cold A/C, the clutch isn't cycling, and no other obvious signs of A/C issues. As the coolant warm up so does my vent temps.

Maybe the shorted valve burned out some component on the board that's not obvious or it just went bad? Is it normal that the passenger side vent runs hotter than the driver's? Any thoughts on where I should start the diagnostics? Anyone heard of JCC - JaguarClimateControl.com ? Anyone else you can suggest to have test/repair the module or a place to get one for a decent price?

 

Found this in searching. 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 Jaguar s Type x Type Climate Control w Navigation Rebuild | eBay

Thoughts?

 

While fixing the burned traces is usually the correct repair. Us home mechanics can't check the module after the repair. So we are guessing that the module is fixed.

Since yours is still acting up you may need to have it looked at. The place you listed looks OK but they are missing a big point? The module should be modified to prevent this from happening again. Jag Climate Controls calls this "Fault Protection Upgrade". So unless your EBay guy understands and installs this protection I would use Jag Climate Control.
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Did you read this page?

Not all climate control modules are repairable ? what? gasp! - JaguarClimateControl.com

 

Yup, and hoping it's not the case. They do mention that the Nav modules are more prone to being unfixable than the other type. The guys advertising on ebay are cheaper and guarantee it to work so I may give it a shot and see considering how expensive a new one is.

 

Let me know how it goes, I'm currently dealing with similar issues!

 

Let's hope ours can get fixed using the repair. Just for reference I contacted Jagbits and they want $1073 for a new unit or $685 for a used unit. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.

 

I called module masters (think that's their name) who advertises on ebay. The tech I need to talk to was out but I'll hopefully talk to him tomorrow. I'm gonna find out what they do for testing and repairing and see if it's something they can fix for sure or if it's a test and see thing.

 

Having this same issue, with my vehicle. Ordered a new BOSCH replacement heater control valve and then I will remove the RCCM to inspect it. Is it wise to inspect the module on my own, or just let Jaguar Climate Control do the work?

 

Gentlemen, just for reference, if you follow the traces and solder in new wires, it may not end there. My issue was still not resolved. I had to take my unit to a specialist that deals with circuit boards. He found that two of the chips on the board were completely burned out and he had to replace them. Everything working as it should now.

 

Do you have any more info on what he did exactly?

 

There are a few chips or microchips on the board (I think that's what they are, there are three or for in a row, and a really large one). He ended up replacing two of the smaller ones.

 

When I talked to the guy at Module Masters he said that the little square components at the end of the traces usually burn out along with the trace. I think he called them drivers, but not sure. My gut tells me they're relays, but no clue really. I told him I'd already done the jumper wire thing to no avail and he said those components were probably smoked and that he replaces them. We talked about the larger chip and he said he can't replace those, but that they rarely fail. My repaired RCCM is due to arrive today; fingers crossed and will update. While they don't install the failsafe like Jaguar Climate Control does, MM is only $100, 2 day turn around, and they give a 5 year warrantee. They don't have a bench fee, (testing fee) and if they can't repair it they return it only charging shipping. I was going to install fuses in the jumpers but they told me that if I open it it voids the warrantee. Had I known I would have installed fuses in the lines to the DCCV when I had it accessible.

 

That's right, they are called relays, that is what the guy I worked with referred to them as. You should be good to go!

 

The things that burn out aren't relays - they are solid state devices doing something similar but unlike relays they burn quite easily. (Bad design of board.)

 

Works like a charm.

 

You can avoid module problems by NOT driving around with a bad DCCV. As was posted above the DCCV goes bad and draws more current than the module can safely supply. After some time the module fails. The drivers for the DCCV are not properly protected in the module.
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It's kind of hard to avoid driving you're daily driver

 

But you could pop the connector of the valve at the first sign of trouble.

 

It is but that means get it fixed now!

Yes that would be a cheap and fast safety measure.
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