Once you get the clamp off and move it to the side, its stuck on there pretty good so I used a small screw driver to wedge between the tube and case to break the bond, afterwards if it doesn't pull off, I used a large screwdriver as a prybar to start the pipe removal. If you don't take the pipe off, you need to get it started and lift the pipe side as high as possible and push back while pushing down. Not the best design...

 

Don't leave that air filter housing unsealed. Ours was apparently cracked very slightly in last year's accident, and it was not discovered until more than a month after we got the car back from initial repairs. The engine kept throwing misfire codes in cylinder 3. They swapped coils and plugs to see if the codes would follow the swap. They did not - cylinder 3 misfired again. Once the cracked air filter housing was discovered and the unit was replaced with a new one (it came with a new mass airflow sensor as well), no more misfire codes....

 

FINALLY got the airbox sealed and snapped in correctly. There was no way in hell I could have gotten it in there without taking the hose off the air box lid. It's not sealed or anything, just needed some elbow grease. I didn't damage that hard plastic hose (dumb) which is a bonus.

The box cover literally needs to almost go vertical to get those tabs in, don't remember it being this hard when I put my K&N in, but whatever. Haven't had any loss of coolant yet but have only driven a few miles. Going to the office with it today which is about 90 miles round trip, and its hot as hell out. Will report back....