Cranking but wont start
Just purchased a used 2000 s type 4.0. Took it in for tires ran fine , left and on the way home it dies. Been this way for two weeks. Pulled spark plugs found oil on them so i replaced the seals. Drain the fuel and put in new fuel pump and new battery. Still nothing? Any ideas?? Thanks
Spray some starter fluid into throttle body. If car starts - fuel related.
Sounds fuel related.
Did you replace fuel pump w/ OEM unit or an alternative?
Fuel filter changed?
Check fuse to fuel pump? Relay??
Sounds fuel related.
Did you replace fuel pump w/ OEM unit or an alternative?
Fuel filter changed?
Check fuse to fuel pump? Relay??
Yes it starts with starter fuel. Just change the fuel pump and fuel filter. Other note during this problem i started to look at the relays and fuses were all in the wrong place. I have since replaced and corrected all the fuses
Definitely fuel related.
Double check your work with testing for at least 10.5V at the fuel pump with ignition turned to run position.
If no voltage you need to dig deeper.
If voltage present - pull out the fuel pump assembly and re check everything.
Test relay related to fuel pump also.
You did not say if you purchased a new OEM fuel pump unit, a used fuel pump unit or did a hack fuel pump fix.
Which one?
I'm a little confused where you mentioned the relays were in the wrong place. You've only got the larger square ones and smaller rectangular ones. You can put either type anywhere it fits. Fuses are all the same size no matter the rating, so those could be mixed up, but I'm scratching my head over the relays.
You had a positive response to the starter fluid, so that's good. Let's look at some basics for why the engine is not getting fuel.
First things first, please check the spare tire well for water. These cars are notorious for rainwater collecting in the trunk. This can wreak havoc with the electronics, including the module that controls the fuel pump.
Next, please observe the PATS indicator light on the dash, at the base of the windshield. This is for the security system, which may have inhibited the fuel injectors as a precaution. Here is how it's supposed to behave if all is good:
First, lock the car with the key fob. Press the lock button a second time to set the alarm system. The horn should chirp once. Watch the little red light. It should flash once every 3 seconds or so to show the system is armed. Now press the key fob unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. The red light should go out. Now hop in the driver's seat and turn the key to RUN (Not start yet). The red light should come on solid ONCE for about 3 seconds and then go out. If it flashes anything after that, you've got a stored fault.
If that is good, locate relay R6 in the rear power distribution box in the trunk. This relay controls the fuel pump. Place your finger on the relay and have a helper turn the key to RUN (not start yet). You should feel the relay click as the pump is commanded to run momentarily to pressurize the fuel rail.
If that is good, connect a mechanical pressure gauge to the test port on the injector fuel rail. This port looks like a tire valve stem. Turn the key again to RUN and you should see pressure. I'll have to look up the specs, unless somebody else has them handy. If you don't have a gauge, at the very minimum hold a rag over the valve and momentarily press the center to bleed off any residual pressure. Cycle the key again and then see if any pressure built up like it should. Without a gauge, this is not a definitive test, but will show if there is no pressure at all.
After that, raise your right hand and swear you will post back with your results. We've got too many dead threads where the original poster never came back with an update. Don't need any more...
You had a positive response to the starter fluid, so that's good. Let's look at some basics for why the engine is not getting fuel.
First things first, please check the spare tire well for water. These cars are notorious for rainwater collecting in the trunk. This can wreak havoc with the electronics, including the module that controls the fuel pump.
Next, please observe the PATS indicator light on the dash, at the base of the windshield. This is for the security system, which may have inhibited the fuel injectors as a precaution. Here is how it's supposed to behave if all is good:
First, lock the car with the key fob. Press the lock button a second time to set the alarm system. The horn should chirp once. Watch the little red light. It should flash once every 3 seconds or so to show the system is armed. Now press the key fob unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. The red light should go out. Now hop in the driver's seat and turn the key to RUN (Not start yet). The red light should come on solid ONCE for about 3 seconds and then go out. If it flashes anything after that, you've got a stored fault.
If that is good, locate relay R6 in the rear power distribution box in the trunk. This relay controls the fuel pump. Place your finger on the relay and have a helper turn the key to RUN (not start yet). You should feel the relay click as the pump is commanded to run momentarily to pressurize the fuel rail.
If that is good, connect a mechanical pressure gauge to the test port on the injector fuel rail. This port looks like a tire valve stem. Turn the key again to RUN and you should see pressure. I'll have to look up the specs, unless somebody else has them handy. If you don't have a gauge, at the very minimum hold a rag over the valve and momentarily press the center to bleed off any residual pressure. Cycle the key again and then see if any pressure built up like it should. Without a gauge, this is not a definitive test, but will show if there is no pressure at all.
After that, raise your right hand and swear you will post back with your results. We've got too many dead threads where the original poster never came back with an update. Don't need any more...
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