Quote:

Originally Posted by FireMedicJ

yo i feaking love you TDC you have been so dam helpful. I did it all today in like 4 hours but i need quick help with what may be the eaiest part, but yet i want to make sure im right.....where is the fill hole exactly?? i see i nut with a bolt going through it on the driver side above the pan is that it? again thank you soooo0o0oo0o dam much!!! please reply asap anyone and everyone

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireMedicJ

forgot to mention i see two screws with an bolt on it one closer to the engine....and another right by the black sensor a bit higher up...if its one of those please let me know thank you.

hahahaa.. No worries at all sir.. I’m stoked for you.. Congrads.. I see that Jagv8 (bless his heart) has already taken care of it. Thanks big guy.. so from here… it all down hill..

I hope you have a fantastic weekend of trouble free driving..

Take care FM..

TDc.


P.S.
Thanks again jagv8...

 

You're welcome. You did the real work I just did the easy part

 

I am about to purchase the springs for this rebuild. It appears that I can only find them for S2 through S6 where there are 5 in a package. Is everyone else buying 5 of these at a time? If so, I'll buy your extras.
Perhaps a cheap group buy on these. I know I'm going over and beyond because its only $9 for 5 springs....so thats about $45 total plus $5 for the 3-4 pre-stroke (sold as 1 in a package). But in a package deal, that would be about $10 for a valve body rebuild.

Let me know if anyone has extras.

 

I have extras of all but the 3-4 pre stroke (which can easily be bought in singles).
How about $10 + shipping for the S2 through S6 springs?
Let me know,
Christian

 

SOLD!!!!!!!

Sending you a PM

 

Thanks for the detailed info! Looks like something i will be doing in the near future.
Have a 2000 4.0 S-type 98k with a second gear slipping when trans gets warm after 30 mins.
Had a local tech check it out today and fluid looks good but did a 5 qt. drain. slight difference but still slipping. Tech stated that valve body is expanding when all gets to running temp, Hmm maybe the valve body is bad? Any way thank you for taking the time to post.

 

TDC

I have the same 2000s v8 with 71000 miles.Most probably i might have to do the same thing in few months.Thank you much for the detailed info.Do me a favour can you post the part numbers of the items for the total build up, plus where to purchase the items.What tranny oil did you use.I reckon you live in so cal?
the jerk you were expericing at 30-35 is it very noticable? Some times i feel at slow speeds, the gear start to shift/up down in my car.Is this the same scenario you are talking?

 

Great write up..can you tell me where the main spring goes when you reassemble the vb to trans? the one that fell out..thanks

 

Line mod in the future...

 

Awesome DYS service tip! tagged page to favorites!!!

 

hi tdc thanks for info i'm new to forum but have similar problem with mine, is this repair on a v6 or a v8 sorry if this is a thick question

 

See his signature
V8

and in that year must be 4.0

 

This is without a doubt one of the best posts ever on the site if you have a similar s type. Cannot thank you enough for the great way you went about posting this. I was wondering, I have read that before starting this project, it is suggested to disconnect the battery when doing the project and then re-connect when you have to start the car. Did you do this?

Also when jacking up the car, front to back, or back to front. That jacking and jack stands has always been my most fearful part. Don't know why but it is and I have the big floor jack along with a bunch of stands.

Thanks again for this great post!!!

 

I don't think to much of a difference with the trans as far as the v6 versus v8 correct?

 

Yep, essentially the same trans V6 & V8. Probably some brackets and stuff that changes.

It's wise to disconnect the battery because there are wires you could trap & short etc. Also, it'll force the PCM to relearn how the engine etc behaves and that's what you want when it's fixed.

I don't think it matters about the jacking, really, but the gearbox (parking?) pawl and handbrake lock the rear wheels, plus fronts are steerable, so I jack the front and later the rear (*). Dunno if that's right or others have different reasoning!

(*) well, I used to. In cases like this I would drive it up a wooden ramp I made and on to some hefty timbers.

 

I had the dredded p0795 and from everything i read it was the 4-3 prestroak spring...You were all right, it was broke in 5 pieces. I successfully got it changed out...but when the valve body was out the ***** fell, i want to make sure they are in the right places. also after re-assembely i added fluid and struggled with checking the proper level. it would pour out and I would add until it flowed, but it was still way low. i added, ran the car and added more, removed the screw and waited until it flowed. but if the ***** are in the wrong spot then it would flow out of the valve body...i have attatched the picture you guys had but added red where i put the *****.

 

They Starred out the main point and question. i meant little round things but they dont like those being talked about. if anyone knows where they are supposed to go please let me know.

 

Just did mine, found a broken spring, and saw that if roughed up the actuator a little bit. I cleaned up the actuator, replaced the spring, filter, solinoid block and fluid. It took five hours total, as I broke two transfer pumps from harbor freight when filling the trans.

By the way, I bought the Mercon V from Amazon for about $100 for 12 quarts. I have four left over, and will use them in 50k miles to do a refresh. Locally, the fluid was very hard to find, and when I did find it it was $15 a bottle. I feel good about it. It shifts great.

 

can you but the pic back up so i can see the vb prestroke valve spring location on the vb am replace my also 5r55n s-type 2000 4.0

 

Just be aware that the bores in the valve body do wear with age. There will come a point where there is too much fluid bypassing around the valves and it will affect the transmission shifting. Sometimes getting a rebuilt valve body will be best.

So if you change the springs and are still having problems it might require a valve body replacement.

There are also servos in the case that show bore wear. These can be repaired by installing a sleeve but that is a much bigger job.
.
.
.