Shrug!

 

Facing opposite of shrug, bent over at waist! LOL.

 

Alright, got my parts list all together (thanks to ttwotees thread) and checked with my local dealer on it. They say it looks like its a complete list for what I need to do but they couldn't tell me for sure cause they've never taken a blower off! I guess with so few SC cars here they never see them often. Unfortunately I won't be able to tackle this for at least 2 weeks but when I do I'll make sure to let you know what condition that hose is in under the blower. Since mine isn't showing any signs of failure, maybe I got a good one. I know some fail at 50K and some are still going at 125K. Guess it's luck of the draw!

 

Awesome winterjag! Now ya got me doing the "!".

 

Everything's better with a !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!

 

I had a similar problem on my 03 XKR. I got a P328 code KS #1 high. Check out my threads about this. My KS was not bad, it was the splice that the KS was tied to. The best way to check this out is to read the impedance of your KS. The left and right bank should read approximately the same. Then check the other end of the plug these sensors plug into. They should read approximately the same. My problem was heat sensitive and only occurred when the car was turned off after driving then left to sit for 1/2 hour. Engine heat soak would cause the common lead on KS#1 to have a high resistance. These sensors are not grounded to chassis ground. but have a floating ground at the ECM unit. There is a splice in PL1 where several of the sensor grounds tie together. It cost me over $1,000 to have these sensors replaced and they were both good.

Bill N

 

That is worth checking out, but I have decided to go ahead and change them anyway, mainly because I already have the new knock sensors and secondly because I have priced out all the parts I need to take the blower off and it's only about $200, and that includes replacing that dreaded hose under the blower. I really want to replace that hose since I appear to be well beyond the point where they seem to fail! Peace of mind to replace it, and not a big cost. The car is getting old, can't hurt to refresh some of these old hoses and gaskets.

 

When they took off the supercharger they found that the top supercharger gasket was bad so that wasn't all in vain. I had the supercharger cooling hose assy replaced, thermostat, all belts and new antifreeze. The car runs great now, no more Reduced Performance messages. Good luck on the job, I would have liked to video the work done on my Jag for the Forum, but the garage would not allow it, due to insurance restrictions.

Bill N

 

So, I was just thinking. Since I will have things torn apart and the cooling system drained, what do you think about changing the water pump as well? I don't think there is anything wrong with it, but I'm going to be in there anyway and as far as I know its a cheap part and the car is getting up there in mileage. Worth the piece of mind to change it now? Also, didn't the 03's come with plastic impellers on the pump and the replacement ones now have metal? I could be wrong about this, but in my mind metal is better than plastic!

 

I understand it'll already be metal but I don't know how to prove that, unless maybe the parts list will reveal it somehow (perhaps by comparing old & current part numbers)?

 

Well, the part number did change. When I looked on ebay, many that came up said this is the new pump with the metal impeller and different casting (or something like that). I know that you have to take whatever you see on ebay with a grain of salt, but I saw this mentioned a few times in different places. Don't know it its true though. I also seem to remember on here someone replacing the water pump on a 03 STR saying that the new pump was much better in design and I believe that the old one had the plastic impeller as well. Maybe one of the techs here can help out in confirming this as true or not? Either way, I'm still inclined to change it. I know I'm in the mileage and age range when things start to go wrong.

 

Just found the thread about the plastic impeller.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-filter-68633/
Same year as mine and I have higher mileage! I think it will get replaced. $60 or so is a small price to pay for piece of mind.

 

$60 does sound affordable insurance.

 

Bear in mind that all of the genuine replacements have plastic impellers. Different plastic type in the later ones. All of the techs on JF will tell you that they avoid the aftermarket metal impellers.

Once you buy your replacement, please report brand and impeller type.

If anyone knows whether the GATES brand waterpump has a plastic impeller, please pipe up!

 

So, all the genuine ones are plastic? Is there some reason why the techs avoid the metal ones? There is one from rockauto for $40 (AC delco) or $60 (Airtex). Don't know if there's any difference between them. I'm going to check my local place too since this seems to be an easier part to find. But whatever I get, I'll let you know what kind and impeller type! I'm going to be ordering the mountain of parts for all this work tomorrow so hopefully they'll get here next week.

Just checked and the AC delco one looks to be a metal impeller. Don't know about the Airtex one and there is also a Cardone one for $60. Again, don't know if it's metal or plastic impeller.

 

rockauto also has the GATES as of about 2 weeks ago. Also about $60. Hence the question

Belts and thermostat are also well priced.

 

Well just ordered all the parts, short of the water pump which I'm going to get from ebay, from jaguarparts.com. Used them before and had no issues so I hope its the same this time! Although I just noticed I put an extra 2 in my ship to zip code. Emailed them about it (cause their phone number doesn't work!), but I'm sure they can figure it out. Hopefully I'll have these next week and be able to tackle this monster of a job!

 

Just an update. I'll be getting all the parts tomorrow morning and hopefully getting this all done over the weekend. I was going to do it last weekend but decided that I should rebuild the blower since I'll have it out. Small cost anyway to get it like new. Hopefully all goes well! I'll be sure to let you guys know what shape my coolant hose is in under the blower just to add to what we know about its lifespan! Hopefully all this work will fix the AC problem too (all the new sensors and belts and all that other stuff). I'll update in that thread when I'm done too! Wish me luck and no siezed or rusted bolts!

 

Luck duly wished!

 

So, I'm at the dreaded EGR valve. Those bolts just won't come off. I spent a few hours last night trying to get them off but it's just not working! I believe they should be 8mm bolts, but my 8mm socket seems to have too much play and the 7mm doesn't fit. I did measure my 8mm sockets and they actually seem to be a bit bigger than 8mm (more like 8.5mm). The bolts are in good shape (ie. I didn't round them off!) but I think its the angle I need to get. It's just impossible! I have removed the cabin filter shround and coolant hoses as per ttwotees thread, and that has given me access. I can easily get my hand in there and feel/see the bolts, I can even get the socket on it, but there is no room to turn it! I'm going at it again this afternoon, any tips or advice? I was thinking of just disconnecting the EGR tube at the header and then taking the elbow out with the EGR still attached if I can. I guess I'll just have to try, try agian until I get it as I know it can be done. The rest up to this point has been fairly simple.