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I'm sorry but while you all pontificate about what this and that might be the cause it just seems to me that the warm up cycle system is the most obvious cause of the problem. Occam's razor.
I'm sorry but while you all pontificate about what this and that might be the cause it just seems to me that the warm up cycle system is the most obvious cause of the problem. Occam's razor.
You mean: something is wrong that is seen after or during that cycle / upsets it.
The cycle itself is good, as seen in countless cars, and does not take "10 mins to warm up". The PCM is even flagging errors to assist. It also provides real-time data if only someone would look at it.
The most likely causes anyone could guess at (and may include wrong parts fitted) but using the data is probably a lot cheaper.
….. it idles sporadic and at about 1000 rpm with the lights sometimes flickering….
Did you remove or move anything out of the way while changing the plugs? Old plastic and rubber…something may have cracked open just enough.
On the 2002s, you have to remove the intake manifold to change the plugs on the passenger side. This is lots of fun…and requires the removal of vacuum lines.
I think they changed the design on the 2002.5 and up to fix this.
Originally Posted by kr98664
Perhaps before changing any more parts, check for vacuum leaks, in case there was a problem during reassembly. Here's a good primer on the subject:
Delphi is an OEM for many auto manufacturers (including Mercedes-Benz) and I have a set installed on my '03 S-type V-6; no issues thus far in 18 months time.. My local parts house has had very little in the way of warranty claims with Delphi coil-packs. Given the amount of work required to change the plugs/coils on the V-6, I am surprised that the OP used plugs with a 20K replacement interval...
Some extra info about what the PCM does, warming up & beyond:
1. it tries to prevent serious engine damage
2. (less important) it tries to prevent cat conv damage
3. (less still) it tries to keep emissions down
and so on
It flags codes along the way if it can. Any time someone clears the codes the law states the OBD monitors are also cleared and they are integral to the above. Also, until those monitors set again (re-set) many codes cannot be detected so won't flag.
Have you cleared the codes and then driven the car to see what comes back?
There is no warming up of the ECU. The car will tell you what's wrong be we have to keep checking codes and clearing them. You must keep the car reporting back to you as repairs are done.
One note as you posted P1316 code. With this code present you should also have a code or codes for which cylinder is misfiring (There are usually multiple cylinders misfiring to set this code). Like a P030X where X is the cylinder number.
Please see the attached document on code P1316.
Please let us know what current codes your car has?
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So I finally got my paws on the car this weekend because my son has been driving it daily to work since I got her. After taking it for a few good rips and man I mean really opened her up it might be that the car sat for a long time and the shaky start ups were carbon build up. Not sure if the warm weather hid the shaky starts or what but after about two minutes the shaky flickering lights and rough idle stops now. At least it’s alot better than it was and I’ll probably put better plugs and new fuel filter in soon. Throttle body wouldn’t make the lights flicker would it? Anyways thx for the quick replies
When the shaking is active and you're still in Park, are you able to increase the RPM by pressing on the gas pedal? If so, does the engine smooth out or does the shaking continue?
Can you please elaborate on the flickering lights? Are you talking about the headlights, dome light, etc? Or do you mean the indicator lights coming on, such as ABS, traction control, battery light, etc.? Is the RPM dropping when this happens? IIRC, below approximately 500 RPM, the alternator is automatically inhibited to reduce the load on the engine to avoid a stall. (I think the AC compressor and power steering is inhibited, too.) In theory, if the RPM is right on the edge, you could have a vicious cycle going. I'm trying to establish if the flickering is a normal response to an abnormal situation (RPM too low), or if the RPM is steady and something funky is happening with the charging system.
Caution with installing "better" plugs?
We have seen over and over it's best to use the plugs Jaguar calls for.
Good that a bit of hard running cleared stuff up! As they say the car is meant to be driven like that!
I think your wise to replace the fuel filter too. It's often neglected.
Yes I was warming the car by revving between 500 and 1500 rpm and it warmed up very quickly. When my son was letting it warm he literally just sat there and waited which prolonged the shaking & interior light flickering. Either way it is very hard to get a good read on what’s going on since the car has to sit in the cold for at least 10 hours to duplicate and my son’s always driving it. The weather will be getting colder in the next few weeks though so we’ll see, but for now it’s running a lot better.
Sitting with the car at idle will spin the alternator, like the engine, slowly and so not much electricity created. Useless for keeping the battery topped up.
Any updates? While searching for something else, I came across this thread and wondered if the issue was ever fully resolved. The (insert name of ethnic group) tune-up in post #27 appears to have helped some. Still curious about any additional details.
I have exactly the same problem. My car, 2.5 petrol, does exactly the same when the engine is cold.The engine idle drops to 500 revolutions, sometimes increases to 1000, then decreases again. It seems that the shock does not activate.I also noticed that the first brake pedal is hard when the engine is cold. It's probably a vacuum loss. When it's cold outside (this morning it was -17 degrees Celsius) it's bad. In summer, it feels very little.
I have exactly the same problem. My car, 2.5 petrol, does exactly the same when the engine is cold.The engine idle drops to 500 revolutions, sometimes increases to 1000, then decreases again. It seems that the shock does not activate.I also noticed that the first brake pedal is hard when the engine is cold. It's probably a vacuum loss. When it's cold outside (this morning it was -17 degrees Celsius) it's bad. In summer, it feels very little.
A vacuum leak large enough to affect the brake booster feel when cold is a significant one! Have you checked the fuel trims?
