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Old May 10, 2016 | 01:55 PM
  #1  
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Default Engine Belly Pan

When I bought the car, the belly pan was not attached at the front by any fasteners. The front edge of the pan is just sitting on top of the valance in front of it. I can see three holes that line up where fasteners are needed. I have two questions:
1. Does the front lip of the belly pan go on top of the valance or below it? The way it is now requires some bending of the valance to get the pan released and I am not sure this is correct.
2. What kind and size of fastener is suppose to connect the two?

I recently parked with the front end on top of one of those concrete curbs and when I backed up, it pulled the valance away from the belly pan and the pan dropped to the pavement. I forced it back in place but something was not the same because in about thirty minutes, while driving on an interstate, the pan came down, made one hell of a noise and I am sure the pan took a beating. I wound up using Duct Tape to hold it in place until I got home. I am sure the tape wont last long so it needs to be fastened correctly. Thanks for any help.
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 02:37 PM
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I added 3 or 4 of these where the front edge of the tray meets the lower valence. I did have to carve out some plastic to make them fit.
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 06:07 PM
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Thanks Dave, did you attach these to the front edge of the pan or the back edge of the lower valance? Also, which one is on the top?
 
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Old May 10, 2016 | 10:18 PM
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There are supposed to be 3 of those snapped onto the front edge of the pan and aligned with the holes. The pan goes on top. Three washer-head M6 X 18 or 25 or so...an inch or less long, screws go through the front valence and engage the clips pictured by David_H. When you pull the 2 M6 screws off the back, the 2 M6 nuts from the back-middle, and the 2 sheet metal wshr-hd screws from the front middle and the 3 M6 machine screws from the front, the back of the tray drops down and you just slide it back a bit and drop it to the ground. No need to force or flex anything.
 

Last edited by aholbro1; May 11, 2016 at 07:06 AM.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 02:58 AM
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mine has the speed clips attached to the bumper with the under tray attached from underneath.

i think your looking for these -

Jaguar s Type Belly Pan Under Tray Spire Speed Clips Stainless Bolts x 25 Kit | eBay
 
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Old May 11, 2016 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by aholbro1
There are supposed to be 3 of those snapped onto the front edge of the pan and aligned with the holes. The pan goes on top. Three washer-head M6 X 18 or 25 or so...an inch or less long, screws go through the front valence and engage the clips pictured by David_H. When you pull the 2 M6 screws off the back, the 2 M6 nuts from the back-middle, and the 2 sheet metal wshr-hd screws from the front middle and the 3 M6 machine screws from the front, the back of the tray drops down and you just slide it back a bit and drop it to the ground. No need to force or flex anything.
Thanks aholbro1, that is a great description. Now that I know how many bolts in total are suppose to hold the pan on, I suspect there are others missing beyond the three in the front.
 
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Old May 13, 2016 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Datsports
mine has the speed clips attached to the bumper with the under tray attached from underneath.

i think your looking for these -

Jaguar s Type Belly Pan Under Tray Spire Speed Clips Stainless Bolts x 25 Kit | eBay
I had to attach mine the same way with the pan on the bottom, no choice. The holes in the pan were so damaged and enlarged that no clip could be attached but the clips went on the valance perfectly. All I had to do was add half of an extra large washer to compensate for the enlarged holes at the front of the pan and it is attached. Cutting the washers in half is always fun but it works.
 
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Old May 13, 2016 | 09:44 PM
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My 2003 S-Type 4.2 came without the belly pan, had to buy one. Pan only cost $184.
but shipping was $184. Size was the cost, but was it ever a learning curve putting it
up for the first time without any knowledge of how to, searched Youtube and found
some great videos as to just how to do it. Had many missing tie together bolts in
front, could see where it had hit parking stops and broke them away. There was
sheet metal screws holding some of it.

BTW, Found out later shipping was so expensive, sent from France.
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 02:27 PM
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If my fix doesn't hold, what is the problem driving without a belly pan? Will water short out elec. connections? Any other problems?
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 03:04 PM
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Really should have one in place, it protects engine components and AC lines. The
reason I bought one after hearing about here.
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 08:19 AM
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>what is the problem driving without a belly pan?

The problem is that your transmission has a plastic pan. One encounter
with chunk of metal, should you run over it, and bye-bye ZF.

The belly pan is there to "take one for the team"...
================================================== ===========
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, and
Torque is how far you take the wall with you
 
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Old May 16, 2016 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by pab
>what is the problem driving without a belly pan?

The problem is that your transmission has a plastic pan. One encounter
with chunk of metal, should you run over it, and bye-bye ZF.

The belly pan is there to "take one for the team"...
================================================== ===========
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, and
Torque is how far you take the wall with you
Now that is one serious reason for a belly pan.
 
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Old May 17, 2016 | 01:56 AM
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not mine! i bought the steel pan upgrade . and think every one should too . what were they even thinking ZF should hang there heads in shame !! next trans service will only be fluid and a $40 filter .
so if i don't dent it it will pay for itself in 2 services . hope fully the car lasts that long . but i guess if it doesn't i can sell the steel pan !
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Datsports
not mine! i bought the steel pan upgrade . and think every one should too . what were they even thinking ZF should hang there heads in shame !! next trans service will only be fluid and a $40 filter .
so if i don't dent it it will pay for itself in 2 services . hope fully the car lasts that long . but i guess if it doesn't i can sell the steel pan !
ZF supply both kinds and Jaguar chose plastic so why blame ZF?

And if the plastic is such a wrong choice why are we not seeing endless reports of faults?
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 09:05 AM
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>And if the plastic is such a wrong choice why are we not seeing endless reports of faults?

Because of the belly pan, perhaps?
================================================== =
You dreamed of a big star -
He played a mean guitar -
He loved to drive his Jaguar...

So welcome to the machine
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 10:13 AM
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It's an idea.
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 10:18 AM
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I would prefer a metal ZF pan over a plastic ZF pan in a heartbeat, regardless of whether or not my belly pan was in place. I'll bet most of us would....
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 11:54 AM
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You can fit one when doing a fluid change.

They cost more I believe. I expect Jaguar decided that with the fitted air deflector (belly pan) they could save the cost and weight of a metal pan. Looks like they were right.
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon89
I would prefer a metal ZF pan over a plastic ZF pan in a heartbeat, regardless of whether or not my belly pan was in place. I'll bet most of us would....
I would prefer metal as well.
 
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Old May 18, 2016 | 03:44 PM
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Go for it, it's just extra money.
 
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