Way to cover my a** John........
Forgot that one!

 

Thanks V8, I've already got that one. Part of my ever growing list of pdfs....

 

OK, I did the workshop tests again. Measuring the resistance between one of the module connectors as described in the workshop manual and the battery positive terminal - key on. Looking for <>1000 kohms, I just get a 1 on the multimeter screen. Infinity? No connection so no resistance?

 

No, it looks like the CAN is OK. It also sounds like the motor (aka actuator) is OK. That really only leaves the items taken out of the picture by those tests, which I suppose are the module and its connectors / any wires you disconnected to use your direct wires.

To reply to CAN requests the module must have had its power OK and also its CAN connection.

 

JagV8, I was going to say that you're getting your threads mixed, but as I typed it, you edited your post.

To add more confusion to my quest, it appears that disconnecting the module connectors in the wrong order can introduce codes too.

Back to my earlier findings with the mulitmeter. It looks like I'm getting no resistance via the module harness, assuming that a number 1 showing on the tester screen means infinity or no resistance. I may need to clear the codes, as xjrguy suggested and cycle the ignition to see if they come back.

The answer would be to take it to someone who knows what they're doing, but I can just see them scratching their heads at my expense, just to come up with no resolution. Harsh, but I have bitter experience with so called specialists.

 

Not to get overcome with semantics - because I think I know what you mean, rather than say - but your two terms are self-contradictory ...

DMM reading '1' does not mean (cannot mean) both "infinity or no resistamce". It does in fact mean an open circuit - infinitely large resistance, if you will, but not "no resistance".

DMM reading '0' means a short circuit - this is your "no resistance".

Please believe I am not trying to be a cheap, smart ar** here, but it helps if all of us following this thread are all on the same (correct) page.

Best wishes in arriving at your diagnosis and fix.

 

Cat is correct- the terms are frequently confused, similar to an open circuit being referred to as a 'short'.

I think the OP needs to concentrate on the screechy dry sounds. A partially seized actuator will cause the system to throw an error message if it cannot fully extend or retract.

 

Sorry for the double post, manycars, but a nasty thought just crossed my mind - when you did your DMM read looking for 1000kohms (1 Megohm) as per workshop manual test - did you ensure you were not "under-scaling"/

Quick explanation - on many cheaper DMMs, if you set selector to an ohms range lower than actual resistance, it will display a '1' as you describe, inferring (incorrectly) that it is open circuit. Many a tech has been caught out, when searching for a known resistance, by setting the meter to that value for a reading - only to be foxxed when the actual resistance is but 1% over. Correct procedure is to start at highest range provided (?50-100Mohm), then work down the selected scales if greater accuracy is required.

Auto-ranging DMMs and scopes have made us all lazy these days by circumventing this possibility

Sorry again, if I'm tellie grannie how to suck eggs ... yech!!!

 

To attempt to reset the module you are probably best with IDS/SDD. So, either buy your own tool or take to any jag indy (if they have the tool as they should) or franchise.

A clone is $45-90 I think and then probably some considerable time coping with multi-GB software.

 

Hi chaps.
'cat', this is all new to me so I was more than likely confusing it all. The Jagrepair manual asks if the reading is greater or lower than 100 kohms. The meter was set to 200 kohms, giving me a 1 on screen. I then went down the settings, still getting a 1, just the decimal point moved. Even without touching the probes on anything, it says 1.

mikey, I would like to concentrate on the screechy sound, but as the silly acuator is apparently inaccessible without lowering the rear diff and it works when powered directly from the battery, I'm of the opinion it's OK but noisy.
However, you make a good point about it may not be able to fully retract or extend, but there are seperate codes for that it seems. C1801, C1802 and C1803?

jagv8, the Solus reader that was used yesterday should be able to clear DTCs, but I popped back to the garage and they are not open until next week. That's not the same as resetting the module I know, but the w/e is upon us and I won't be able to get any time off until next Friday to get to anyone with the Jag equipment. The same day as the MOT retest is due, after that I'll need to pay again.

 

I managed to get it to an indy today. The only relevant code for the handbrake was C1801-00, so the other codes I got yesterday were red herrings.

C180100
Greater than expected actuator current draw
reached before expected travel (actuator current
draw compared to expected number of turns)
Possible cause
Cables fouled, trapped or damaged
Cables incorrectly routed or fixed
Rear lining wear
Service brake not correctly
adjusted following lining change
Caliper malfunction
Actuator malfunction

Most likely a new motor, maybe a wiring issue which they would check first. £200 for the motor and 2 1/2 hrs labour. About £400.

There are six different motors apparently and the correct one has to be got, so Ebay ain't an option.

£400 for a feckin' handbrake?

When I went to leave I noticed that the reverse sensors were not beeping..at all. I know one of them was iffy as I used to get the 3 second beep on selecting R for the first time per cycle. Now I get nothing. There doesn't even seem to be a fuse to check, so I've no clue what's happened now.

I need a brew......

 

It's quite awkward to change the motor

The thing is that the EPB is not just a handbrake but also an emergency brake as it will (well, when working) do quite a good job of stopping the car. Which is why MoT tests it I suppose.

I hope they get more reliable by far in future cars.

 

Hmm, reliability of these items isn't helped by putting them in the most moisture ridden, dirt infested area of the car.

It has to be done but I hate spending money on the car when I need to spend it elsewhere.
e.g. paying for Christmas.

Looking at the net, £200 is about the price for a new one. There is only ONE for the S Type though, so not sure where the idea came from that there are six? Ebay, you're looking at £80 -£100 for a second hand 'working' one, so no point doing that.

The only saving would be labour, but the days of sitting on the drive in all weathers are quickly getting beyond me now.

 

The DIYer in me would want to open the existing actuator and see if it can be fixed. Might just need cleaning and regreasing of the gears.

 

Mikey, I with you on that and having checked the weather for tomorrow it could be do able. It does mean that I'm going to have to turn down a turkey dinner at the in laws though.

 

+1 Mikey on the DIY "look, see, repair" option.

I guess, manycars, for me it would fit with : "What have I got to lose?"

Best wishes,

Ken

 

The answer is:
Half the skin off my knuckles.
My day off.
Three showers worth of water trying to get the dirt out of my face.

As you can guess I tried to get the motor out today, but without success.

There is NO WAY that the motor will come out unless the diff is dropped and as I could only get the diff dropped by 3" at the most, the motor would not come out.

The primary cable is rusted/clamped to the secondary cable on the drivers side, UK, which means that even if the motor had room to come out, the cable would not allow it.
The secondary cable on the other side is a pig to disconnect at the connector to the primary. There isn't enough freeplay.
The wiring connector is in such a stupid place, you can't get your hands in there to pull it apart. After various contortions, time and much cussing, I did it. Ultimately a waste of effort as the motor wouldn't come out.

Having spent six hours on my back, with dirt and WD40 falling into my face, puzzling my way around all this it's still going to have to go to a garage.

How I feel at the moment, I just want to sell the car once the MOT is done. I just can't be arsed messing about with stupidly designed vehicles.


Thanks for all the help and suggestions, I'll let you all know how it goes.

 

Let us know when (if) you find one that's perfect in all design respects at 8+ years old (time for the faults to appear).

We're actually not seeing many EPB motor faults even at 10 years.

 

Hi manycars,

Sorry if my post sounded insensitive - actually, the opposite was intended. I think we all sense your frustration, but as I haven't previously seen or heard such extensive EPB problems, I am unsure how else we can share the burden. Like you, most of us have had our Jaguar dramas ... but we still come back for more!

"Fat lot of good that does ..." I can hear you say, but I suspect that this drama and its eventual fix, is a valuable lesson for those of us who can't be there with spanners, but continue to follow this thread with the belief you will get on top of it..
Best wishes (and I do mean that)

Ken

 

It's not about the faults, it's the daft design that makes fixing them more trouble than it should be.

From my reading and talking to other Jag owners, I'd say that various EPB faults are common, even on much younger cars. I'm surprised that you say that they're not.

It's in to an indy tomorrow, so my wallet is prepared for a mugging.