JagV8.....NO, there are few things that will be added come spring time to make it "done" for now as a daily driver, and then the massive hunt for a dyno tune will truely begin.....I want over 450rwhp w/o nitrous

uropnm6- Dyno tuning helps in all other factors, shift hardness, shift point, fuel MPG's, HP/TQ gains, fuel trims, timing......Manufactors make them safe, and there is always something left on the table and each engine is different stock vs stock....

The only thing out there so far is ecu reflashes for certain mods, but no one who has got the re flash has not done a before and after dyno to show true gains....

I do not want a off the shelf tune as I want my air/fuel to be on point and timing where it should be.....

results of a dyno tune from one guy to another......

showing some can actually make a lot more gains when they know what they are doing.....

This was before the bigger injectors for the pulley swap and 3 more lbs of boost
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxB7Mtb0vT0

this is after with someone else tuning it with the different pulley and a lil more know how....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7AiJOYYMiY

 

uropnm6 - not much chance of the TEC3r approach with a modern car full of internetworked ECUs like the S-Type. A member's busy putting an LS3 into a 2000 body if you've not seen his posts and not finding it easy.

 

Riski, thanks. What you look to need is a tuner for the Denso PCM. Might be what's in Evos or Subarus, though with very different software. Still, the look-up tables might be structured similarly.

 

Jagv8 I see that you are from the UK my home land. So you must be aware of the DTAfast stand alone set up and what they can do, I have tried their set up but find the TEC3R easier to tune \, I think it is possible to use these on modern cars cause you are only running the engine nothing else. I will do a little research and see what I find and post my results.

 

But you can't run just the engine can you? Not and be drivable on public roads, where you need to comply with all manner of laws etc. Besides, controlling an STR for extra power isn't going to be easy. The existing PCM uses 2 CPUs to do it.

 

you use the stand alone to just run the engine leave the rest of the wiring and cpu's alone and let them do their regular thing?

 

So the speedo will show zero? The auto box won't go into gear. The brakes? EPB will stay on. No DSC. Fuel pump won't run (it's commanded via the network). Etc. It's a LONG list, these are just my initial thoughts.

A whizz in computing could program something to fix all those in a few man years, otherwise probably best to forget it. These are the sorts of reasons why the LS3 is not a trivial project.

 

Yea I been lightly on the hunt for a place to actually dyno tune the STR....I found a place that can do the pre 4.2 Supercharged XJR's but nothing so far with our motors....state side.....

 

First of all I would say don’t tune the ECU, the added safety is actually giving you some room to up the boost whilst still have some safety, I run still in stock tune for this reason.
There is a trick you could do to see if there is a little bit of room in timing, but I have to warn you not to run this way, it’s your insurance…
Buy a second hand IAT2 sensor, and connect that one during the dyno run. This will trick the ECU in that the actual temp is cooler, so it will not retard the timing which in most cases is costing power (unless you are running a high boost with th eeaton). Make sure you also have a heat gun so you can make sure the intercooler temps are the same between the runs. This way you will at least see if it could be worth spending lots of money on possibly only very small/risky gains.

 

I like the edit

Yea I also thought about moving the IAT sensor....I am gonna do my own "killer chiller" set up to help witht he heat issue and a meth kit to cool her down when into the boost....to keep the timing in check and not get retarded when I wanna lay into her....

SO how is that KB swap going for the STR? Any rwhp numbers yet?

 

Just to be sure, don't drive with the IAT2 located somewhere else, only use it to do a control test (sorry to repeat, don't want to be responsible for someone blowing up their engine!).

So far the STR with the twin-screw has (only) got 420 rwhp, and we will not commence with an ECU tune (other than taking out the speed limiter, which failed last time).

Only way to seriously increase the hp numbers is a redesign of the intake with TB, what I am planning to do for the new TS kit on the STR. But I am way behind; this will take at least until summer, so don’t hold your breath…

 

Avos, thank you for taking the time to develop a blower enhancement for the STR.

 

Hurry up!

 

420rwhp is quite an increase over stock!

 

420 rwhp may be equivalent to 500 crank hp.

 

Err, that is 90 hp over stock!!! Avos, are there any other upgrades besides the t/s?

 

Not only that but doesnt the TS cut down on heat soak. So in the summer heat would actually get even more power compared to stock since the ECU will be cutting power to account for heat soak. With the TS it wouldn't since the heat soak takes alot more to come about. Am I right or did I hear wrong about the TS??

 

Assuming 330 rwhp = 400 bhp you get a drive train loss of 17%. So 420 rwhp becomes than 506 bhp. I hope to achieve about 460 rwhp (554 bhp) with the new setup, but that can only be confirmed with a dyno.

I am not sure about other ways to substantially increase the power (other than NOS), you might gain a little by changing pulleys, but don't go drastic there, the faster you spin the Eaton the more power loss from the engine, and the more thermal heat on the engine (reducing power the longer you use it). These cars/engines are not designed to cope with that increase, and don't make the mistake to compare figures from other cars (i.e. mustangs or the like), the setup is very different, so the results also. There have been many that also ported the Eaton, but even though this has (also) been on the market for many years, I have yet to see some creditable before and after dynos (besides dynos that show no to limited increase).

I will endorse solutions that work, not sales talk that can’t be substantiated, and thus far there isn’t much for our cars when it comes to substantial increases, other than the proven TS technology.

The twin-screw is indeed producing much less heat, so also less heat soak, and thus less power loss than with the Eaton, so the twin-screw (especially the Kenne Bells ones) are by far the better supercharger when it comes to high power/boost applications, here is some more info between the 2:
http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/twinscrew-vs-roots-fromcatalog.pdf

 

I can wait AVOS.....take your time and lets get these lil 4 door cars some nasty lil power upgrades.....it is boring filling up nitrous bottles

 

And dangerous. I have a two and ten year old and I am not sitting them next to a nitrous tank.