What are your codes?

 

Er, he won't have any as it's fixed.... re-read his post

 

Hum! Failsafe gives me no direction, it would be better understood if we had the codes and or what fuse. Sorry if I did not make myself clear!

 

I have just joined this forum so new to this as well as to being a new jaguar owner...and have been reading and trying some of the suggestions to no avail. We have a 2002 Jaguar S Type 3.0L 6V. We did just buy a new battery today as our's was bad. Just bought the car on Nov 2 and it has coded since day one. Started out with transmission codes for the solenoids and now the only code we got after it wouldn't start 2 days ago was p1586. I had read on one board...(don't remember where now.. way to many places I've been in the past week) that it could be the gas pedal accelerator. Was looking into replacing that piece but found this forum and decided I should wait to hear from one of you guys before I start buying up a new jaguar part by part. Any ideas as to how I can get the fail safe mode off the car and get this code to disappear. I have tried to clear it but it keeps coming back. I have checked all fuses and relays and they appear to be fine. This kinda happened right after I changed a couple of canister fuses out when I noticed from the manual that they were the wrong ones. perhaps nothing to do with it.. but it was the only thing I had done different while fixing some of the other cosmetic issues. The only blown fuse I found was for the cigarette lighter. Any information would be gratefully appreciated.

 

It relates to the TACM. Be sure to Search and read up on code & that module. Parts swapping the wrong parts is not good!

 

TRY - disconnecting the NEGATIVE TERMINAL ONLY of the battery for 15 seconds and reconnecting.... this might clear the code

 

Have a good look around at the rear of the intake manifold, under the wiper cowl. There is a good sized round bracket surrounding the injection pressure sensor, [points rearward] and there is a large wire harness that many times lays against that bracket and gets cut into. Any one of numerous wires can be grounded when that happens and a whole range of symptoms can occur. If nothing turns up there, check all the terminals at the Throttle Actuation Module, it's mounted on the bottom of the throttle body. Of course, it could also be an issue with the module itself.

Good luck!

 

Thank you all for your posts today. I tried tracing the wire harness and did find one area on the passenger side of the engine compartment where the wire harness/tape had been cut open by somebody.(it is definitely human cut not anything else) all wires looked intact. I think somebody else was looking for the same problem prior to us buying the car. We decided that we would clean the throttle body and the connections. Just finished that project and tried to start the engine and got a pop sound and smoke. Really scared to retry starting the car but did and actually got it to turn over and run for about 35 seconds. now back to the same thing won't start but sure is trying to. Fail safe mode still on dashboard and still a P1586 code. Did try the negative battery disconnect and no difference. Soooooo we are thinking that maybe we should just go a head and order the gas pedal and try that next. Any thoughts as to that line of thinking??? Really wish I knew another jag owner here in Norfolk to "TEST" out their gas pedal to see if it is the problem.

 

I guess you could do that if you had a pedal to substitute, but at this point I don't think I'd just throw money at it like that. The P1586 tells you it is related to the throttle body or circuits to the throttle body actuator module. Have you looked closely at the harness behind the intake that I mentioned?

Cheers,

 

darapblo I agree with xjrguy (Steve), I would not be throwing money at could bees and what ifs.

Steve could it be the TB as a unit, you know as if the prior owner may ve pressure washed the engine compartment. I am leaning more that route myself. If that would be the case thats where I would throw my money at. I believe you can purchase remans on Ebay.

darapablo there many, many threads about replacing the TB due to water.

 

I think he put P1586 not P1546. Different causes. But yes to do with TACM and its circuits. Got to be worth some very thorough checking of all its wiring. JTIS has elec guide which shows what they are etc.

 

Well, in general it's the later S-Type R's that are known for water getting at the throttle body, because it's right under the cowl at the rear. But somebody pressure washing any of these cars, and not being mindful of the throttle and other electronics can easily do damage. We see it more than we'd like for sure.

Cheers,

 

Thank you Steve, yes many V8's and I have read a few with the 3.0's.

Just thinking out loud again.

 

Steve

Thanks again for your insight. I did try to check out all the wires. At least what I could see behind there. If I was to get a used TB is it a part that has to be programmed to our car or can I just put another one on there? This is all very new to us and we are trying not to take it to a outside mechanic/dealer if at all possible. Electrical issues are a little out of my realm of tinkering though so I am leaning towards it may going to a mechanic to be checked out. I just don't have a lot of money to be throwing into this car.

 

Get the codes PDF and/or JTIS! The fault causes do not include the TB.

 

Thanks for catching my typo, John. I have corrected the post to read P1586 like I intended.

Cheers,

 

No programming involved to switch out the throttle body, just be sure to disconnect the battery to do it. Then it will initialize properly when reconnecting.

Good luck!

 

Okay I had to come back here and post because it drives me crazy when someone asks for help and some advice is given but they never come back and tell you the outcome.. so here it is..

We tried all the things that you guys suggested to no avail.. we finally broke down and towed it to an import repair shop. We waited literally all day long for a response from the mechanic and finally when it came... are you ready for this?? I hope your sitting down and have a beer in hand.. cuz it was soooooo stupid and cost $300 in labor ... it was an fuse with the WRONG AMPS!! I asked the mechanic to please tell me which fuse it was.. now this is the funny part.. he said he started with the fuses and found they were all correct according to the diagrams for this make and model... Same information that we had previously checked before going to him. After telling him the history of what we had tried he started to do the same things to figure what the issue could be. He pulled out his wire diagrams and his trusty omhs meter and set about to test the connections for the throttle body.. only to find that there was no power in the engine to it.. but there was no problem with the fuse #10. So he started at fuse #1 and worked his way up testing all connections.. when he hit fuse #11 he heard the relay "click". He changed out the fuse and Voila... it worked!!! He said that is a common problem that diagrams sometimes are not printed correctly. So while it was saying it was fuse #10... in reality it was fuse #11... I hope this helps someone else out because we feel so stupid paying someone $300 to change a fuse that we had looked at so many times before finally giving in. The fuse wasn't burned out and wasn't incorrect for the diagrams that we had.. BUT it was just the wrong amps in the slot for what job it really was meant to do. But thank you so much for all your help and I do hope this helps someone else out someday.

 

If it wasn't blown it cannot have been the cause. Explain!

The rating (amps) only matters if/when a circuit draws more current than the fuse, when the fuse will blow.

 

From what you say he told you, I'm more inclined to think he found a tarnished fuse that resulted in a poor connection. John is right, the size of the fuse has no bearing at all unless it is too small for the load and blows. Either a fuse passes current or it doesn't. In your case his statement "when he hit fuse 11 he heard a relay click" tells me it most likely was a poor connection. Simply replacing the fuse restored the connection and the power. If he had scrutinized the fuse he took out I'd bet it's terminals were dark with tarnish. Sometimes I recommend just swapping out fuses in older cars to alleviate the tarnish possibility.

If you have an older car, sometime pull all the fuses in a fusebox one at a time. See if some are dark, and some are bright like new. That is tarnish, and ends up resulting in a high resistance connection. Just pulling and reinstalling the fuse will restore the connection for a time, but it will end up happening again.

Cheers,