I purchased my 2004 4.2 Sport with a known transmission fault as it was very cheap.

The previous owner had gone bankrupt and couldn't affort to fix it.

Car is at 73500 miles and throws up the following fault codes:

P0730
P0731
P0735
P0782
P0784
P0788
P0829

It drives, sort of. Putting it into drive results in no movement, and revving the engine to about 3000 rpm makes the car start to creep forward. Same with reverse.

The PO said they had it up to 70 mph but acceleration was virtually impossible from stationary/ low speed. He seemed to think it was stuck in one gear as it didn't change gear at all and was at something like 3500 rpm at 70 mph.

So, what could I be looking at?

I'm going to check the trans fluid level first, as this is always a good place to start.
If the level is ok I'll drop the trans pan and inspect the filter and oil for debris and probably have the fluid analysed.
Next is to take the valve body off and check the solenoids P0788 indicates that the shift solenoid (MV1?) is showing a high reading (Stuck??)

Any other ideas guys and gals?

Cheers
Steve

 

With that much wrong just take it to a dealer or start looking for a used one.

Are you a transmission expert?? Because you need to be with this one!!
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.
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Before getting too excited check the electrical connection to the transmission.

 

Steve, ditto to steveinfrnce. If you're mechanically inclined, then drop the pan. The filter is integrated with the pan and will require a new pan/filter ($110). Check the fluid for burnt smell, brown color, and sludge. The solenoid codes could be from toasted solenoids or harness connector issue. If you determine the transmission requires a rebuild, drop it yourself and bring it to a transmission shop for a rebuild using their or yours ZF trans. rebuild kit. This process will save you a ton of money. We understand you picked her up for cheap. Aside from the trans. issue, if all else works well then let's give her a new lease on life.

 

Check the shifter cable where it enters the trans, too, as the 2 bolts are knowb for working loose / dropping out. Read the existing threads, that's why they're on here

 

Take it to a *******??? I'm not made of money!!!

Not really, but I have a degree in automotive engineering and used to work in the business. Just need a few pointers from folks that have been there before

 

All recieved and understood. Was how I was going to progress anyway with exception of the connector.
If it needs a rebuild then I'll be putting a good second hand unit in (with new filter and fluid) and swapping over the TCM. A reset of the adaption values will probably then be required.

 

The connector is known to go bad and you will (obviously) get daft codes if it does.
Replacing it will involve dropping the sump anyway.
Maybe the way ahead (as suggested) is to drop the pan (For Gawd's sake make sure you can get the filler plug out first) and see what the Pixies have been up to.

Don't hesitate to use a small cold chisel to remove the awful Torx screws.
This guy
http://www.xk8-parts.com/index.php/2...-your-gearbox/
does a complete kit and is reliable.

 

Good call getting the fill plug moving before dropping the pan. Don't want to leave the box empty do we??

Thanks for the link. Will order parts once I'm sure whats going on with it.

In terms of reading DTC codes from the TCM, reading live data and resetting the adaptions and even maybe reflashing the TCM, which tool will be best; the VCM (IDS) or the JLR Mongoose? I'm looking at getting a clone (can't afford the real thing) and I believe there are issues with newer software versions (V128+) requiring a licence?

 

I've just checked the transmission fluid level. With the engine off there is nothing coming out!!! Looks like its bone dry!

I found a leak in the transmission cooler pipe work which would explain the loss.

So, what is the likelihood that putting some fluid in will get it going? Or will there be too much damage?

 

What's to lose? You wouldn't expect to see much coming out of the fill plug so don't get too excited.
These boxes will take cheapo Ford fluid
(see Rev Sam's posts here)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...k-whoop-87351/
You need to follow the fill up, heat up instructions but fill it up 'til it just overflows and give it a try.
If it's alive I'd still change the pan/filter and replace the fluid JIC.

 

Fix the trans. cooler line then throw some fluid in there....?

 

I thought with the engine stationary and the pump not running in the gearbox it would mean the fluid collects in the sump instead of filling the torque converter? So I'd expect quite a quantity of fluid to gush out when the engine is off.

 

That's just what I was going to try next! I have found some fluid that is the correct spec for about 1/3rd of ZF fluid prices! If you need cheap gearbox fluid for the 6HP26 then google Millers Millermatic DM.

 

Aren't they UK only?

 

Hey Jagbuff...I experienced a horrific time getting my trans fluid changed at the tune of over $700 and I still had issues after I got it back. Be careful of the procedures and follow the forum members advice on the ZF, these people know!...In short, even the local jag shops can give you a scare because sometime they don't know the procedures, which was in my case, an they will call on the dealer for bailout.

Feel free to search my user name for posts concerning the ordeal I went through with a local shop when I took my car in for a trans fluid change.

 

Good advice sumrfum.

 

Thanks for the advice! I have the fill procedure committed to memory now so I'm pretty confident that I'll have no worries getting that done. And after finding a cheap source of fluid I will do a full flush and a reflush just to be sure all the old dirty fluid is removed along with any debris.

 

I used a temperature sensitive sticker from RS to check the transmission temp - worked a treat.
If you're going down the complete change route I don't think you need be too obsessive about the 'test' fill though.

 

You are correct. If the vehicle is NOT running and you remove the fill plug, you will have quite the mess of ATF on the floor, if the autobox is at the proper fill with ATF.