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FORD Coils? Do these look original?

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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 10:02 PM
  #21  
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Default So I pulled the three easy plugs to have a look...

Those are some interesting bolts Jag put on their Coil Packs to secure them.



I had to dig a bit for a wrench that I could get ahold of them with. Take a look before you get in too far. A deep socket (cannot remember if it was an 8mm or a 7mm) did the trick.

The plugs look to be in pretty good shape. They might be original, but I kind of doubt it.

Have a looks



I was surprized at how much oil there was around the threads. The front plug was down there pretty tight. I thought I was going to have to get my 24" torque wrench out to break it loose.

The plugs are Motorcraft AGSF 42PM Platinum Plugs. Does anyone know if those are the original type installed in '02 3.0L engines?



The insulators seem to be pretty clean without many deposits. The center electrode seems clean. They are all three gapped between 0.051 and 0.054. That is not too far off from where I have read they should be. Have a look.



QUESTION FOR YOU JAG SERVICE GUYS: Is that oil on the threads (it smells like it) or some type of anti-seize I have never seen before?

Would you still say change these plugs assuming the 'Bank 1' plugs look the same?

I have to run back out to the shop and close her up so the wife can drive her tomorrow.

Please let me know what you think about the plugs.

Thanks.

.
 

Last edited by BugDoc; Aug 3, 2009 at 12:20 AM. Reason: To add a pic of COP retaining bolt.
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 10:17 PM
  #22  
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Default Going to make PoBoyBlues laugh!

I checked the JTIS (it's all I got) for the torque values on the plugs and COPs retaining bolts before I went back out.

The plugs are 11 ft-lb. The COP retaining bolts are 53 in-lb.

The plugs the JTIS lists for the '02 3.0L S-type engine are AWSF22FS. Seems to be a different plug. Do you Jag service guys have a way to look them up without losing your livelihood? Thanks.

Also, the JTIS says to put "a light coat of high temperature nickel anti-seize lubricant F6AZ-9L494-AA on the spark plug threads" so I assume what looks like oil ins not 'nickel anti-seize'.

Out I go to reinstall the plugs, coils and wires... Thanks again for your help.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 10:35 PM
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Yo, Bug!

The oil is probably left over anti seize from the factory. Any anti seize will work. Permatex makes a good one, and I use it often.

Change your plugs. You've got em out, change em. The intake is not hard, it's just tricky, I guess. Take your time, and you should be able to hack it. Don't drop anything down the intake ports and give a look before you reinstall manifold.

Now, there have been cases where the cam cover gasket plug cavity seals leak into the plug cavities. If you see black oil pooling up at the bottom of the cavity BEFORE you remove the plugs, you will need the cam cover gaskets replaced, too. If you get too much oil in those cavities, that will cause a misfire. Good luck, buddy.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 11:15 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by poboyblues
Yo, Bug!

The oil is probably left over anti seize from the factory. Any anti seize will work. Permatex makes a good one, and I use it often.
Good to know. I have a big bottle of the Permatex stuff. That is what I used.

Originally Posted by poboyblues
Change your plugs. You've got em out, change em. The intake is not hard, it's just tricky, I guess. Take your time, and you should be able to hack it. Don't drop anything down the intake ports and give a look before you reinstall manifold.
I put them back in. I'll change them all at the same time, once I get the intake plenum gaskets and the new coils. I guess I am kind of hoping that the P.O. changed the easy ones and when I get into 'Bank 1' they look more 'used' over there. (I did that once on a van we have... changed the front and then realized I could not get to the backplugs. You have to loosen the engine mounts and roll the engine forward to get those plugs out. Not certain which is worse. That or this. Tell you in a few days!) I don't think those plugs would cause the problems I'm having... maybe I am wrong. They will be new soon.

Originally Posted by poboyblues
Now, there have been cases where the cam cover gasket plug cavity seals leak into the plug cavities. If you see black oil pooling up at the bottom of the cavity BEFORE you remove the plugs, you will need the cam cover gaskets replaced, too. If you get too much oil in those cavities, that will cause a misfire. Good luck, buddy.
I did not see any oil standing in the bottom before I took the plugs out. I did look because I thought I read someone taking an air hose and blowing the sparkplug well out before they took the plugs out. I did not see enough down there to pull the airline over. The wells looked pretty clean on 'Bank 2' (driver's side). Hopefully they will on 'Bank 1' when I get in there too.

PBBlues, question for you. Let's say you took the intake plenum off a customer's vehicle today, made your repairs, changed out the gaskets and closed her up, fired her up and all seemed well so you and sent her home to the customer. Then the customer came back in a week later with the same issue. You open her up again. Would you change out the intake plenum gaskets once again this time? Do you change them every time? If not after a week, would you after a month? Or are they replace on each intake plenum removal?

Thanks again PBBlues for the comments and suggestions.
 

Last edited by BugDoc; Aug 2, 2009 at 11:17 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 11:20 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BugDoc
Those are some interesting bolts Jag put on their Coil Packs to secure them.



I had to dig a bit for a wrench that I could get ahold of them with. Take a look before you get in too far. A deep socket (cannot remember if it was an 8mm or a 7mm) did the trick.
They are 8mm. I looked when I reinstalled them. If you are reading this because you need to get to those 'Bank 1' plugs/coils, I will pray for you and you can reciprocate!
 
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 11:24 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by poboyblues
Yo, Bug!

....The intake is not hard, it's just tricky, I guess. Take your time, and you should be able to hack it. Don't drop anything down the intake ports and give a look before you reinstall manifold.... Good luck, buddy.
One of the threads here suggested pre-cutting two pieces of cardboard 2" x 12" to place over each of the remaining bottom intake manifolds. I think I'll actually bolt them down.

I don't want to have to go diving into that engine for the "one that got away"! Good advice here.

Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 12:13 AM
  #27  
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Default I'm sorry! Those cannot be the right plugs!

This is a Jaguar. Can it really use $5 spark plugs? I have never put that cheap of plugs in any vehicle... Can these really be the correct plugs?



I was expecting $10-15 a plug. The lugnuts on this thing cost $20-25. How can the sparkplugs only be $5?????
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by BugDoc
This is a Jaguar. Can it really use $5 spark plugs? I have never put that cheap of plugs in any vehicle... Can these really be the correct plugs?
I think I put a $4-5 plug in a push mower once.

Could one of you great Jag mechanics here, please confirm that this is really the recommended (original) sparkplug?

Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 12:17 AM
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Just put some rags over the ports. That's what I do.....if I even do that. But, hey, I'm a pro!!!

As for the manifold gaskets and your scenario......I wouldn't change them if I was going back in after a week or so. If they are original, change them. When reinstalling, make sure those gaskets are in place as you are working to get the manifold seated and torqued. They have a tendency to jump up on ya.....everything will bolt down....then when you fire the bitch off, she's got a huge vacuum leak....then we must repeat the job......which would suck......so eyes, eyes, eyes. TAKE YOUR TIME.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 12:19 AM
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Bug, I cannot possibly remember plug numbers. I am sorry.......If I remember tomorrow, I'll have a looksee.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:13 AM
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Greg, as Jon89 mentioned you need the iridium plugs... I replaced my plugs from the "zone" I believe they were in the area of $18.00 ea.!! These $5.00 plugs are NOT the correct plugs! The "zone" guys will fix you up with the CORRECT replacemnets. Sorry I don't have the time to pull a plug out of ours and see what it is.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 08:33 AM
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I order all of my iridium plugs from www.drivewire.com, phone 800-895-8910. I know they carry Denso and I believe they also carry NGK. I wouldn't go with any other plug besides those two brands. It's been nearly three years since I've had to replace any plugs in any of our vehicles, but the last time I did, drivewire.com was selling the iridium plugs I needed for $8 to $9 each with free shipping on orders totaling more than $50. The best price I could find locally for the same plugs was about $14 each. It was worth it to order them and wait a week or so to get them.

Iridium plugs are so much better than anything else out there. In our Lexus SUVs, I pull one or two every now and then just to check the condition, but I never even think about possibly changing them until about the 120,000-mile mark. I'll probably run the factory set in our current 2004 RX330 AWD until 150,000 miles if we keep it that long. The iridium plugs are that good....
 
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