LOL Im at home now and not in caps(stupid ADP program only does commands in caps, so cap lock is always on and I forget to turn off, so I wasnt yelling) not upset either, so didnt meen for you to think that

 

He He He....I've always wondered why BRUTAL posted in caps..Just was scared to ask...

Hedge...Keep working it out...Lots of good info here...

 

Lol Josworth!! …always glad to take one for the team! No harm/no foul…but, certainly good to know Brutal!

Anyway, the car is still with the tech (since last Friday), and it seems that now with the manifold off, they’ve found leaks in the radiator hose, and are waiting on one from dealership...$140 for a radiator hose?!? Though I’ve smelled coolant, I never saw ANY on the floor of my garage; is this what (again, from my understanding) could have been causing the faults/misfires in the first place? I am not sure what else has been done, I do trust the owner as he’s usually done me right on my Rover (he’s also my neighbor), and until now, we’ve had very few probs, with the Jag, so sometimes, I try to leave it up to him, yet, I am assuming they’re still changing the plugs/coils/etc…but, the more I read/understand, the more simple the problem (cracked radiator hose) seems to have been, and the more money I feel I’ve (maybe only prematurely anyway) wasted?!?!

 

Try to find out what was wrong with the hose, and WHICH hose (lots of the pesky things). Maybe "just" weeping. But if so, where?

If you could smell coolant maybe it was pooling somewhere (top of engine? plug well?) then drying up. Not good!

If the misfires are due to water/coolant/oil on the coils, the source would need fixing (and any damaged coils would need replacing). If you trust them, probably best to let them fix it. Good techs are hard to find, sadly. There's not enough data yet to say if they're doing the right or wrong things so best not risk jumping to conclusions. It's fair to be asking for details, though.

 

JagV8 is dead on. I'll try to not sound to redundant. But, if there was a coolant leak getting to the COP system that could cause a short and intermittent miss. After a short or two, the coil starts to fail. Then you get a solid miss. So, if going after the miss your tech hit on what was causing the coils to fail, don't look at it as a negative but more of a bonus! It sometimes takes the best techs a lot more time to figure out the root cause. And, as far as the reflash...Look at it like a PC...You now know your running the latest OS... Does that help any...

 

Some very good points and questions to ask! He did also say they’d have to take the manifold off anyway to get to it, so I’d presume the labor is minimal since they’ve already got it off. So…you guys are correct, it is in-fact a bonus they found it sooner rather than later.

Thanks, I am feeling MUCH better now, as it certainly puts my mind at ease to hear those things, which I’ve been constantly reiterating to myself in order to ease the doubt, that, and a perhaps a pint (or 6). And fortunately, I am wise (old) enough to realize that perhaps a little knowledge, though fundamentally useful, can also be a dangerous thing, so I must trust those I draw on for a reason…

 

the upper hose thats lekaing includes the thermostat housing, t stat, upper hose hose to water pump and turrent to small bypass hose(this is whats lekaing and leaks from cracking if you look at it wrong) Its not going to get any coolant on the coils, its not even close. But there is a T that is ontop of the driver side cam cover/intake the cracks too, simply cut it off and replace with a vacuum T and clamps. If it EVEN LOOKS like that turret shows coolant stainging I WONT TOUCH the job without the customer buying that hose matrix. No matter how carefull you are that thing cracks easily when you take off the intake

 

That sounds precisely like what he described. Wow, if you can figure out where its leaking from my amateur ramblings/descriptions, then I will definitely request them to also replace that “T” on top of the driver side cam cover/intake, if they haven’t already done, or intend to do, so. I’m tight but, I’d much rather it be done right to prevent any more problems. Thanks!

 

All righty, so I FINALLY got my car back Friday afternoon. ALL the coils and plugs were changed (Bosch coils/NGK iridium plugs) for good measure, the radiator hose matrix, and the vacuum “t” on top of the manifold, as well as, all the gaskets, rings etc were replaced…All of the codes were cleared, and although it now runs phenomenal, it does occasionally shift a little harsh, and “gearbox fault” remains displayed. The tech said he could go in and replace the small solenoid spring on the valve body. That said, does anyone have experience with this, and does it solve the underlying problem?

 

Hedge, have read all the comments back and forth and know exactly what you are going through.

Believe me everyone on this site is fantastic with trying to help and get the answers you need. It sometimes comes across like teacher to student but I'm in the window business and I can relate to how they respond when people ask me questions I know a great deal about and give the answers and they either never explained it correctly or whatever and the teacher sometimes gets frustrated and that demeanor might reflect in responses, but not the case.

I had one of the members (will mention who if he lets me) give me his cell phone so I could actually call him on some questions. I called not knowing what to expect and got him and his family going into an amusement park and he still took my call and wanted to help. What does that say about this fantastic site!!! Having experienced all that and more here, I can genuinely say everyone of these guys really wants to help you out. That said, I will give you my two cents on the car.

I love our S and it is what it is. I had my trans replaced by a local mechanic after 68,000 miles and have read of countless others who had to do the same thing. I am not saying this is going to fix all your problems and the things you are doing now, been there done that and if you follow the advice given, I am sure it will all work out. Also, considering the age of the car, its going to have issues. Compare it to how great it works when fixed even for a few weeks of true enjoyment driving it and another issue comes up and you get upset, to how long sex lasts after married 25 years, 5/10 minutes tops) and how much you have been paying for that all these years and the car is a bargain). Got to laugh once in a while.

Anyway, the local mechanic (and many here might contradict what he says) though not the complete fault, one reason he thought could cause the issue for trans is the fluid could leak out of the hoses under the car and not seen. Because of the heat shields under the car, you miss the drip on the floor because it lays on the shield and when driving, blows off. I think one of the big faults in the design of the car is you cannot very quickly or easily check the trans fluid levels (with a stick) and Jag says no need for 100,000 miles. No matter what anyone says, that is a mistake.

Ended up, wife driving, enigine fault code goes off, pulls over and we tow it to dealer who tells me trans has to be replaced at 5 grand. Took it home, bought a trans rebuilt with warranty and mechanic charged me 600 bucks to put it in. Local guy working in his garage with all the tools needed. So for $2100 not a bad deal. Not saying he did better job then a Jag Tech because frankly for the most part, the guys in service and techs at local dealership have all been great with help and service done by them, so not blaming them for manufacturers screw ups, but the costs were just more then we wanted to spend. That was 2 years ago.

I now look at all my hoses routinely for any leaking and have none. I put fresh cardboard under the car in the garage and check that for any signs. I also am very careful about making sure no leaks anywhere when replacing of hoses, or gaskets or seals. Those o rings, (got the Green ones, thanks Jagv8 and Brutal), I lubed them with a sealant I use on my pool gaskets even though I think not required. It only makes sense, having a pool and every gasket recommended grease to preserve them (compare dry skin and moisturizer) and help with any air or water leakage which causes big issues with water pumps in pools.

Also lubricate all the rubber (yes hoses to) anywhere on the car (use something called black magic at autozone; doors, around the trunk, any rubber everywhere on regular basis and all of it looks brand new). WD40 is my best friend on every nut and bolt on the car. Also make sure all the threads are covered when replacing with the recommended lubes.

When my friends or others see the car, they think "Wow he has a Jag which has this mystic of costing a great deal to buy so he must be somewhat "well off". My running joke on this, its not the prestige of owning a Jag that sets you apart, its the prestige of being able to pay for the service on them that really is the sign of well off. . So why do I keep going with it? To date, for me, I cannot find a more comfortable and enjoyable ride and beautiful to look at (my best friends son always comments about how much "you know what" he could get if he had my car). I just love the car.

Good luck with yours.

 

Yes it's called the 4-3 spring and it very often breaks. Cheap and simple fix if you know what to do!!
Take a look at the attached PDF.
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Hi Hedge

I have V8, first i replaced two coils purchased from Autopartswhare house, costing around 65/-.Then i replaced UNITEDWIRE COILS (6) on the rest of the engines.I check the primary resistance on the ones, and they all are the same.Go to ROCKAUTO, you can buy for around 22/- each.I reckon your V6, is a same Ford engine installed on Lincoln LS 2001.Go for it and save money.Good luck.

 

THANKS for the pdf, thats exactly it! SO, since I am already well-known for needing copious amounts of talcum from being EXTRAORDINARILY tight, what are we talking when you say "cheap"? The tech told me about $1100 for the job...

 

Well it's only $6 and you can install it yourself?? Look here:

http://tinyurl.com/355clxq


and scroll down until you find The "4-3 Pre-Stroke Valve Spring". They also carry a huge selection of transmission parts so it may be worth a call to see if they recommend changing anything else when you do the spring??
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WOW...6 bucks??!?!? I certainly see it, and it looks straight forward enough...so, what am I missing that its gonna cost $1094 more??!? Is this just something best left to the pros, like brutal? Or, has anyone actually done this on their own? Results? Hind sight?

 

A tranny shop would be much cheaper because..... they're a tranny shop LOL

btw, the PDF's name has a typo: should be Sonnax.... (not Sonnex)

It's not the only failure possible with that tranny but it's fairly common.

 

Why not do it?? Get the pan gasket and a filter. I bet it would not take 2 hours. If it's not the problem your only out how much?? You probably can use a partial fluid change anyway. The valve body is right there once the pan is removed.
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I was originally the one with error codes 1383 and 1388, they came up randomly and would go away and come back. After having a mechanic replace igniton parts (coils n plugs) and inspect the solenoids i still continued to have the problem. I bought the car used and it looked as if the wiring had been spliced to the coils and solenoids, I had the mechanic inspect it and solder the wiring on the drivers side bank (atleast to the solenoid) and the codes still came back... (one seemed to go away, i think 1388).

Then one day I'm driving home, decide to pass a car on the interstate... was doin about 90 and slowed to about 75, then my car did what I call 2 or 3 "surges", just tiny fluxuations in rpm/speed (very tiny, almost the reverse of two tiny revs), then my car came back and acted fine, i sped up, slowed down and it was fine... I continued to drive about 5 more miles, got off at an exit and heard a car knocking when I got down to about 35 mph, I realized it was my car near the next stop sign, i then stopped at the stoplight and my oil pressure light came on, It sounded pretty bad, loud knocking (mechanical), I drove to my house (1 block away) and parked. I talked to my mechanic and he said sounded like I need a new engine. I feel like there was probably an oil supply failure at somepoint (maybe gradual solenoid fail? and then oil starved engine?) my car started when I tried it again. It has only the same error codes (i think only 1383), I checked the oil level was fine looks fine (had been changed 1000 miles ago w penzoil (first time i used i think, 5w-30)...
I have looked at the drivers side bank, it looked ok, some oil in one of the spark plug seats, checked that solenoid, it just had a tiny bit of metal flakes in the screen--(heard this can be solenoid itself).... That is as far as I've gotten, next is to take off other bank, I'm praying to see a very clogged solenoid screen... and not a completely destroyed head. IS there anything I should look for???? SUGGESTIONS PLEASE!!! When I checked the codes they say possible VVT actuator stuck, solenoid fail, valve fail.... etc...
I'm trying to decide whether to keep and fix or sell and cut my loses, WHAT A MESS, PLEASE HELP!

 

To be clear - you have had TSB S303-09 checked out and if need be performed?

 

jklit,

jagv8, Brutal, and the rest of the regulars were (and continue to be to others) a TREMENDOUS help, as well as, sounding board for my daunting dilemma…not to mention, their invaluable help was FREE!! ...Much UNLIKE the "help" provided by my local Jag shop (in-fact, owned by my "friend"/neighbor)!! That being said, I loved my jag, I had the update done as suggested ($286 at dealership) which, did absolutely nothing for MY bevy of trials & tribulations, and was about to have the 4:3 spring ($450) done. I will say that in my experience, putting the car in “4” vice “D” lessened the harshness of the shifting in the interim. However, due to an overlooked water pump problem that kept re-fouling what were my NEW coils/plugs, I was told that they’d ultimately have to remove my dash to also replace the heater core (if memory serves correctly). Needless to say, I decided to cut my losses; I was honest when I traded it in, and since I was using my banks buying service, I actually got more for it than I expected (my other vision was to simply drive it into the Atlantic!!) FWIW, I should have done it (cut & run) long before, in addition to, finding, and searching THIS site PRIOR to ever purchasing it. This site should probably be REQUIRED reading for all prospective jag owners!! Thanks to all, and good luck!