Well, I've come close a few times in recent years but I finally pulled the trigger on an S-type.

I bought this one online which is a bit....heh heh....high risk and unnerving. They ALL look good in the pictures, right?

This is a 2005 V6 with just 38,000 miles. Near as I can tell is really IS a creampuff with excellent service history and entire life spent in Southern California. It'll be a few days before it arrives.

Anyhow, I have LOTS of learning to do. I'm accustomed to the older models. To me an '05...even though it is 19 years old.... is a near-terrifying step into modernity!

I'll do lots of reading and will be asking lots of questions.

I'll naturally be giving the car a good going-over. And when I buy any used car it always gets a major servicing, just on GP.

When I get the car what are the first things I should look for as possible problems? What things do I need to jump on right away? I'm talking about S-Type specific things here. Not generic I-just-bought-a-used-car things.

Many thanks
DD

 

Congratulations! Two quick things come to mind:

1) For anybody who has just announced the purchase of an S-Type, it's considered an honor to send a small gift to the first person to reply to your thread. Generally, a $200-500 honorarium is appropriate with forum tradition.

2) Plan to give the battery a load test and replace if questionable. Any place that sells batteries will test for free. Prestart voltage is very persnickety on 2003+ models, even if the battery seems to get the starter spinning at a good clip. If not up to snuff, you may get some spurious faults that seem to make no sense. Long-winded details here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...faults-193787/

 

Thanks Karl

A new battery is part of my major service scheme on just-bought used cars . I like to do everything and be done with it....plus having a new "square one" from which future services can be scheduled from

Cheers
DD

 

Some more things:

Check the operation of all keys in the door and trunk lid. With remote fobs, often the key cylinders seize up due to inactivity. Apply a light lube (graphite?) as needed.

Checking the keys is very important with the battery in the trunk. This problem is commonly discovered if the battery goes dead for any reason, and the key is tried for the first time in years. There's a workaround for charging the battery without opening the trunk, but it's a whole lot easier if the key works.

Pay special attention that all keys work in the trunk. One of your keys may be a special valet key, designed to only work in the door and ignition.

Check where the battery ground cable attaches to the body. The bolt passes through into the wheelwell. Moisture can wick up along the threads and corrode where the cable end is grounded to the body. This is a known problem area. Probably not an issue with a CA car, but can be in the "From" states with road salt. It's quick and easy to check.

Look at the little shutter across the opening in the ignition switch. It should snap shut when the key is removed. If it sticks open, even partially, the various computer modules may not enter sleep mode with the key removed and slowly drain the battery.

Check the operation of the Dual Climate Control Valve (DCCV). This part has a very high failure rate (when, not if) and can affect both heat and AC. See post #2 in this thread for a couple of methods to test it:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/

 

Thanks again

Just took at quick peek but those postings on climate control repair are really great!

Cheers
DD

 

At least use an OBD tool with live data. Check signals you can understand at least vaguely (ECT, IAT, MAF, ...) and see if the fuel trims are sane. Don't clear codes - you would also clear the OBD monitors (used e.g. for smog test but also need to be set for the car to be able to flag codes to help you).

Various rubber hoses may need replacing. Drive belt, maybe. Age does affect even low mile stuff.

 

I was gonna ask what the latest suggestions were for scan tools. I have an old and very basic Innova 3130 but it isn't very helpful.

Fuel trims? Gah! Did battle with those for years on my old '95 XJR. Hoping this '05 won't be as problematic !

They'll be replaced as a matter of course, of course

Cheers and thanks
DD

 

I'm a little concerned about the Electric Parking Brake.

Am I worried needlessly?

Is there anything a guy can do to make failure less likely?

Moving along.....

Any suspension problems to look for? At just 38k miles I'm presuming there won't be any suspension faults or worn bushings to replace.

Cheers
DD

 

Congratulations Doug, welcome to the board! Everyone has you covered above. Check for cracking dust covers on suspension front and rear. Also IMT oring check. That is located in the "How to's"

 

I was wondering about the IMT o-rings as I've seen them mentioned so many times.

Is this something I should do preemptively and just be done with?

Or wait-n-see?

Y'know, on the oldie models, even well-cared-for examples, especially V12s like mine, there are a whole slew of things you "just do" so you can put 'em out of your mind and just enjoy the car. I'm hoping for a bit less of that with this car but, still, I want to stay ahead of the game.

Cheers and thanks
Doug

 

On the code reader front, you need something that will read Jaguar specific chassis DTCs besides the OBD-II side of things. I have the iCarsoft LR-II and it can pinpoint a specific failing parking aide sensor in no time at all... Sadly that model has been discontinued.

I am sure others can chime in with recommendations; the i930 gets mentioned quite often in these forums.

 

I would guess that with the mileage that's on it you have the originals. Below simple check with a "short route" to change them. I still have the replacements that I used 12 plus years later.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ck-pics-49214/

 

Use it less? E.g. defeat it setting by holding its paddle down as you turn the engine off and remove the key.

Be sure the gearbox parking pawl is engaged if you do and maybe don't defeat on a slope.

 

I was gonna ask about that.

What's the typical failure mode here? Electrical or mechanical?

Does the system wear out from years of regular use? Or does it fail from not enough use?

My experience with purely mechanical parking brakes is failure due to lack of use.


Cheers
DD

 

We've seen both. Take a look through the link I gave in post #2 above. I lost track, but I'd say about 50% were caused by a battery on its last legs. Add another 20% or so for other electrical problems (charging problems, for example) causing low prestart voltage.

Another common fault is the cables binding from age or corrosion. This makes the motor work harder. Just guessing at the fault reporting logic, but if motor amp draw goes over a certain limit, or transit time takes too long, a parking brake fault is annunciated.

Another problem, not quite so common, is corrosion inside the actuator gearbox. The actuator is tucked under the rear of the car and difficult to access. But I think you can check the outside for rust stains at the seams, without too much difficulty. If rust stains are present, the gaskets have failed and water got inside.

 

Update:

Finally took delivery of the car today. So far I'm 100% happy. The general condition is better than I expected....almost "mint". Drives well, no warning lights, cold AC, etc. No rattles or squeaks or clunks. I haven't been able to find anything that doesn't work...although not every button has been pushed yet

Cheers
DD

 

Congratulations Doug. I have a 2008 (which my mechanic calls a virgin) and it has really grown on me. I love the design -- especially the face-lift cars. Have fun, brother!

 

oh it does. it needs rear upper, lower arm and toe links, ball joint type bushings can't be repaired. ball joint boot kit for rear sway bar links, front uppers and tie rods

 

Great choice of car to add to your collection!
Would love to see some photos of your TR6 V8!

The experts that have posted above have covered nicely on the (few) problems these cars have but even at 38k miles the hydrabushes are all likely to need to be replaced, unless already done so (to add to xalty's post above).
Crucial you check for any leaks around the compressor; change to a quality supplier's new compressor if leaking. Leaking or not make sure the receiver/dryer (sack actually) is changed and the system topped with pag oil.

 

Thanks for the additional info. Next week I'll have the car up in the air for inspection and servicing; I'll take a look at all suspension wear items. And also look at the compressor.

I've spent a bit of time operating the controls and systems. The only glitch I've come across so far is the button in the overhead console that operates the interior lights. I turned the lights on....and then couldn't turn them off. After ten minutes of fussing with the button they finally extinguished. The button feels very mushy; no on/off click or detent or spring action; almost like it isn't attached to anything. This weekend I might drop the overhead console for a peek.

The car is driving like a dream in all respects. Not even a single squeak or rattle. At highway speed it tracks perfectly and is vibration-free.

It's early on, so there's still a bit of "fingers crossed", but I'm feeling optimistic.

Cheers
DD