I have some of the threads on the dual climate control. It seems that I need to replace the DCCV. I believe there are 2 types the 5 hose type and the 3 hose type. Mine I'm pretty sure is the 5 hose type. I have been looking for it and I think I found it. It is on the passenger side front near the tire (Some one correct me if I'm wrong). Also does anyone have any helpful hint on replacing the DCCV.

I was told it could also be the CCM (burnt trace and/or transistor).

Can some one give me some info on the CCM? Im not sure what it is or where it is located.

 

After a few more posts on your part you'll be able to access plenty of info regarding DCCV and CCM. I believe you're right about the 5 hose DCCV. A member named Justin67b (I think) has an awesome detailed CCM repair. I noticed many CCM's for your model on Ebay but you may be able to repair your own if it is faulty. The climate control module (CCM) is the display located just above your radio as long as you don't have navigation. The other issue many speak of regarding cabin temperature problems is faulty or clogged temperature sensors, there are several in the cabin. Search for those threads. My DCCV (and I think yours) is located just inside the engine compartment behind the radiator near the bottom on the passenger (US) side. It should have a bunch of hoses running in and out of it. Check the FAQ's too.

 

Thanks for the feedback I'm going to order my DCCV 2morrow. The cheapest I found for my 5 hose style was 174.00.

I read the CCM repair thread where the burnt trace was replaced with a soldered wire. I guess if you dont see a burnt trace on the CCM than its a bad transistor? I did not see any CCMs on EBAY for my vehichle 2night. But I'll check into it later if the the heater valve does not fix the problem.

Thanks again

 

STOP.... read the thread about ford / jaguar compatibility.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=37066

You can use a motorcraft DCCV speced for the Lincoln LS.

MOTORCRAFT Part # YG355 Is the 5 Valve Version.

Amazon seems to be the cheapest at the moment. 132.72 delivered

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-YG3.../dp/B000C5HZEM

I have never seen the 00-02 Ford Based climate control fail. Seems like the 03+ Jaguar one is much more sensitive.

Take care,

George

 

George,

I wish I would have seen that thread before I ordered my heater valve, I would have saved $50. But I thank you for the info I can use it in the future.

any advice on a drain and flush of the coolant. I haven't found the coolant bleed valve yet.

Thank you in advance for any info you can give me. I love this site everyone is so helpful.

 

Drain is simple. I'd replace upper / lower rad hoses as well If i were doing it.

As far as bleeding it's not that bad, but there is a specific procedure. See attached PDF for details.

Happy New Year!

George

 

Thanks for the PDF. I have the JTIS and I seen the procedure. I could not find the bleed valve. I'm very new but I'm learning.

Also, why do you recommend replacing upper and lower radiator hoses?

And Happy New Year to you!

 

The valve is on the pipe coming out of the right side of the throttle body (at least on my 2003) its actually a metal pipe, not a hose. You need to remove the plastic engine cover / oil fill cap to get to it.

I took a quick pic of my motor. Look at the throttle body, see the rubber sleeve going to a metal pipe going under the engine cover exiting the right side of the throttle body? That's the pipe it's on.

You need to turn it about 1/2 turn counter clockwise to pull it out, standard flat blade screwdriver. To get it back in line it up about 9 O clock and you'll feel when the threads catch.



Hope this helps,

George

 

Thanks again George, Hopefully after I become more familiar with my car I'll be able to help with some of theese discussions.

Are the upper/lower radiator hoses a problem spot mine aren't leaking?

 

Are they a problem spot? Not really....

What's notorious for leaking are the plastic coolant expansion tanks. On your car the design is a little bit different and as such not as prone to leaking. I'm a little bit OCD but my theory is since you have to open the system to do the DCCV, might as well do all the wear parts in the cooling system. Kill two birds with one stone, and save on doing the coolant twice.

How many miles on your S?

George

 

It has 68K miles. What coolant do you use? I read in this forum that Dexcool can be used.

 

I wouldn't use Dexcool. ESPECIALLY if the car has ever had green coolant (The two don't play nice together).

The original Ford / Lincoln / Jaguar coolant is Zerex G-05, I keep it on hand, and it's all I buy. My local Advance Auto Parts has it, Wal Mart might..

http://www.amazon.com/Zerex-ZXGO51-G.../dp/B0033QNZZ0

I wouldn't use anything but, but you can buy it from the parts store for 1/2 the price of what the Jag dealer wants (because it wont come in a white bottle with a jaguar paper label on it lol).

BTW, this is the same stuff that Mercedes and BMW use. Only thing that changes is the label LOL, Hence I use it in all my vehicles.

Take care,

George

 

George, I checked out your 1990 Mercedes 500sl. You have got tallent!

 

Thanks!

That car isn't even 1/3 of the way to where I want it. As the weather gets better, progress will continue. I'm slowly amassing parts etc. New headlight frames, I have to do something about the center console wood, redo the stereo, new hood pad, reallign the hood etc. Then I'm going to try to buff it out, if not it's getting stripped, prepped and off to paint it goes. I really want to try to save the original paint though, it's only original once. Oh and if that car was a person it would be old enough to drink today

There also might be a '69 Chevelle in the works too.. (yes my interest are varied), that and the search for a Maserati continues lol... I'm running out of space quickly though.

Take care,

George

 

I think I found my bleed valve for my coolant it was next to the expension tank. Connected to the outlet off the heater core. The outlet line goes to the tank and the bleed valve branches off that.

 

That's half the equation. There are two bleed valves on a 3.0.

Read the pdf I posted again.. The bottom where it says LHD 3.0 Vehicles only.
Line / Step 7 and 8.

The bleed valve you are talking about is the heater bleed valve. Mentioned in # 8 - this is also where you bleed the heater core / do the 2nd part where its running and you bring it up to speed etc.

The bleed valve on the engine crossover pipe mention in # 7 is on that pipe mentioned in my picture.

Make sense?

George

 

Your right, many thanks again found it and took pictures

Heater core bleed valve
Crossover pipe bleed valve

 

Had a lot of heating issues with the 01 s-type, finally discovered the electric water paump just back of the radiator had worn brushes that causes it to rum intermittenly. Changed it out bleed system as described and no more over heating isuues and cabin heat worked as new again.

 

yes your AUX coolant pump was bad. The main symptom for this is lack of heat and not heat all the time. Not near as common but does hapopen.
.
.
.

 

An aux coolant pump failure will lead to no heat, and may cause overheating issues because of blocking coolant flow. only a stuck open dccv will cause full heat all the time.

Take care,

George