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Heat problems/ replaced DCCV

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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 04:37 PM
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Default Heat problems/ replaced DCCV

Hello,
I have a 2001 S type 3.0
I ran into a no heat problem while driving to Florida from upper Michigan. I tried bleeding the system/ no help. I ended up replacing the DCCV. when removed I could blow through it easily, I did not connect 12v. I had the new one so I just replaced it. engine bleed valve very brittle and had to replace the upper hose assy I followed the bleed procedures for bleeding it but doesn't seem to want to bleed. started the car, heat on high, opened the bleed valve on upper hose first and closed that when steady fluid. I removed the bleed valve next to the expansion tank and master cylinder. car is at operating temp (halfway on gauge) left open refilled expansion tank as necessary. i get some fluid out then nothing for a while. then a little and it stops. I closed the valve brought engine to 1500 for a min and back to idle then opened the valve to get a strong push of fluid then back to nothing or very little coolant out of the bleeder. I let this idle for about 20 min with the bleed screw out and doesn't seem to be improving. Does it normally take this long? Still no or very little heat. Should I keep going with the bleed or is there something else wrong? I haven't noticed any leaks out of the system. or the hoses i messed with. I searched the forum but haven't found anyone questioning having to bleed it for this long. I have also checked the fuse for the DCCV and replaced it just in case.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jagdriver123
I let this idle for about 20 min with the bleed screw out and doesn't seem to be improving. Does it normally take this long? Still no or very little heat. Should I keep going with the bleed or is there something else wrong?
In my limited experience, the bleeding process is iffy at best. I've given up on it and just drove the car, being VERY careful to monitor the temperature gauge. Expect the heater to be a little erratic at first, maybe 20 mins or so. Keep a close eye on the coolant level, and expect it to need a top off or two as the air is worked out of the lines.

More details about troubleshooting the heater at this link, specifically posts #2 and #6:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/

It's a long read, but there are also some steps to use manual mode to help isolate any faults. You can also undo the connector from the DCCV, and the two internal valves should spring to the open position, giving you full heat. This should help narrow down what is happening.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 10:24 AM
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Thanks kr98644,

I drove around a bit, cycling the heat on to high then off again every 3-5 minutes. Temp gauge stayed halfway the whole time. Fluid in expansion tank went down a little and now I have great heat again. Such a relief!!! Thanks for your help!
 
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 10:25 AM
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*kr98664
 
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jagdriver123
I drove around a bit, cycling the heat on to high then off again every 3-5 minutes. Temp gauge stayed halfway the whole time. Fluid in expansion tank went down a little and now I have great heat again.
Groovy, glad that worked out for you. And thank you for letting us know the fix. We see so many unresolved threads around here...

I've been trying to find the official Jaguar reference I had to simply driving as an alternate to the bleed procedure, but I can't find it. Basically, the persnickety bleeding procedure, if followed to a tee, would make sure the system was working properly before returning the car to the customer. But it also said in lieu of that, simply driving the car at normal speeds would accomplish the same thing, but of course you couldn't really release a car from a repair shop like that.
 
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