So I had the dccv issue (hot air from one side if the vents and cold from other). Mechanic replaced the part now the vents only blow super hot air from all vents. Anyone experience something similar?

 

Strange. I'd guess the mechanic didn't connect the plug or maybe something happened that blew the fuse or damaged the climate control module. There's a fuse that I think powers the climate control and A/C clutch, #10 underhood if I recall right, but do check your manual. I would check the connector and fuses and if that isn't it then take it back and see what the mechanic says.

 

Sounds like the DCCV damaged the module as usual. Default is open i.e. heat.

Old threads have pics of the kinds of damage & fixes.

 

But odd that it got worse with a new valve assembly isn't it?

 

No.

Pull the module...

 

I think checking the plug at the valve and the signals from the module might be a good idea.

 

If you can get to them. The module is easy to get out...

 

Have no idea what the car is.....but 3.0L 2003 and sub refresh is easy to spot the plug...and relatively easy to get to, though I'll stop short of saying easy to unplug....

I suspect John is right and the old valve had one side stuck closed (the cold side) and blew the control board....New valve likely works fine but due to control board damage isn't being commanded to close either side.

 

Thanks guys. Sorry for reference its a 2005 STR. I will have my mechanic (a friend of mine) pull the CCM and see if we can see anything visible that would indicate a burnt out circuit. Is this something easy enough for a general tech to fix, or would the board have to be sent out somewhere?

 

There are pics on here

It's usually a PCB trace but the fixes already post have great ideas to do it better.

You can DIY this...

 

Looking at the circuit board you should be able to see the burnt spot (s). Solder a wire onto it so that it re-connects (bypasses) the burnt part. I found a write-up with pics somewhere, but don't remember where. Adding a fuse would be a good idea and when I get into mine I'll see about doing that.

 

You might want to squeeze off the heater lines just to be sure the A/C is working OK.

Also be aware that people have gotten bad DCCV's before to.

I had just the opposite happen on my 2005 STR. No heat after replacing the DCCV.
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Ok so I pulled the DCCM, a number of burned circuits. Took it to an electrical place that does specialized repair such as this. The guy fixed it and tested it, all looked good. I replaced it in the car, still super hot air from the drivers side, but coolish air on the passenger side (I had the AC on and temp set to 63). Any suggestions from here?

 

Sounds like the repair was ineffective

 

Tried it at the coldest setting? Mine reads lo at coldest (and I think ignores the temp sensors) don't know on yours.

When you first fire up the engine before it warms up do you get cold A/C? If not then the A/C isn't doing it's job, altho you still have another issue as well, but knowing if the A/C is good will help diagnose.

I doubt he could fully test the functionality of the module and just confirmed that he fixed the burnt circuits so it could still have a problem. There's also a few temperature sensors in the car that could be lying to the module, but I don't know details about finding and testing those. You could put power straight to the valve, if that gives you cold then you know the valve and A/C are doing their jobs for sure and that you have some other problem.

 

Ok so I fired up the car with the setting on LO. Blowing cold air right off the bat well and continues to blow cold air. As soon I start turning the temperature up, that's when it starts getting wonky with the hot air on one side and cool on the other.

I'm guessing it is indeed the module in that case? And if he can't repair it further, the only option would be buying a new board?

 

At least you can be cool now, and you can turn the fan down if too cold while staying on lo.

Someone more knowledgeable will hopefully chime in, but I do believe the temperature sensors are ignored on lo so it could be them or the module.

 

Going to call the guy that did the board and see what he says. Is there anyway to test the DCCV to rule that out as cause? It was a new OEM Bosch part so I don't think it would be defective out of the box, but I guess you never know.

 

DIY: Diagnose It Yourself - JaguarClimateControl.com

 

On the DCCV connector there are three pins; the center pin is fed positive power full time and the two outer pins are fed negative by the module to control one side or the other. You can run a wire to the center pin with + and touch either outer pin with a - wire to activate it. You'll hear it click open if it's working and I believe the power draw should be about .6amps or maybe less if you have a meter to test it with. On my valve one side was good and the other side was shorted pulling about 10 amps. I have a module to repair but haven't pulled it yet, hoping for the best.

If you don't mind, gimme a quick rundown for pulling the console and stuff to get to the module. I don't wanna assume I can yank something out that might be screwed in place or needs to be pulled a certain way. I have a touch screen Nav system; anything special to know before pulling it out?

Edit; I just read that the module for a Nav equipped car is behind the glove box and not behind the touch screen unit, is this correct? Any special tricks to get at it?