Is this common, and what is the cost to repair the heater control valve and a/c module in a 2003 S type V 8 ?

 

Sadly, this is very common on 2003+ models.

Details here, in post #2:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/


To repair, replace the valve. Make sure to get a quality name brand, not some knock-off on eBay, etc.


For the control module, get in touch with this guy:

https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/


He can repair your existing module at a reasonable cost, and that includes an upgrade to prevent future damage.

 

PJR, I feel your pain. I had my CCM replaced several years ago at this dealership at a whopping cost of $1.900. Probably even more now. The DCCV took it out beforehand. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the quick response !!

 

Agreed with Karl on purchasing a good DCCV. As far as the AC module. Look at the model number on yours, you must get same model number, there are a couple diffetent ones. Although they look the same they won't work correctly!!! Purchase eBay or off Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

Again get same part number as what yours is!

 

What causes the CCM to fry when the valve goes bad? Iffi know the failure mode, I might be able to prevent it.

 

Some details here:

https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/


Reading between the lines, with a DCCV in good condition, each internal solenoid draws about 0.6 - 0.9 amps. That same current is also flowing through the circuit board inside the control module.

As a DCCV ages, coolant tends to leak internally and short out the solenoid coils. This increases the current flow. Per the example shown at the link above, one side of a defective DCCV was drawing over 6 amps (!), which is way too much for the circuit board to handle.

The 10A fuse for the DCCV also powers the control module, AC clutch coil, and the aux coolant pump (V8 only). This was a huge oversight by the designers, as a damaged DCCV will overload the control module circuit board well before the fuse will blow.

If you send your control module to be repaired, he will add overcurrent protection within the module. I'm not sure of the exact details, but it must be some sort of fuse or auto reset circuit breaker.

This mostly affects 2003+ cars. The earlier models don't seem to have this problem.

I've thought of making a harness extension to fit between the DCCV and the vehicle connector. It would have an inline fuse for each valve, maybe 3 amps or so.

 

The comments saying this problem doesn't happen in pre-'03 cars is not correct. Our 2000 had the control module taken out by a shorted DCCV.

 

I have 3 repaired ccms and a remote ccm repaired and for sale. $150 with exchange. Always replace the dccv valve before you replace the ccm or risk damaging a new one with the old valve still in thats shorted

 

Whats the difference between a repaired ccm and a remote ccm?

seems like over current protection is needed. I need to look into this.

Thanks!!

 

The remote ccm is for navigation equipted cars. I repair them with over current protection

 

Never mind. I figured out what a remote ccm is!

Also found this!!

https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/

 

Oh youre quick!! But thanks!!

im an engineer so I am gonna tackle this!! Or try at least

 

Heres a great resource!

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...oted_04_12.pdf

 

Found this as well!

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...des/703_SG.pdf

 

We just had the coolant valves (shorted) and the control module (blown up) replaced. Second time in 4 years. Has anyone done the fusing for the individual coil wires to save the control module? What value fuses did you use? Did it work?

Alternately, does anyone have details as to what circuit modifications can be made to the control module board?

I am guessing that a 1 amp fuse per line should be good, but as an electronic technician, I am concerned that the reverse EMF generated upon solenoid de-energize might cause nuisance fuse blowing. Doubtful, but I thought I should ask.

I can't afford another $1500 a few years down the road!

 

Google search littlebus resettable fuses

 

You may be a pioneer with this. I've considered adding inline fuses near the DCCV, but Amazon is back-ordered on Round Tuits so I never got that far.

We've talked about it on the forum, but I'm not familiar with anybody actually adding fuses to the harness. Several guys have modified the control module with resettable fuses, or this outfit will modify it for you:

https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com


Not sure about later models, but on my '02, the DCCV harness is routed above the radiator fan shroud. That would be a fairly easy spot to tap into the existing harness:




If you'd rather put fuses in a more protected spot, I noticed some of the pictures here show DCCV wiring to the left of the instrument panel, behind a panel near the door jamb. You might be able to tap into the harness here instead:

https://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/dia...test-procedure





Normal amp draw for each coil is 600-900ma. I measured 853ma in this picture:




A 1A fuse might be cutting it a little close. You could always try it and if it keeps blowing, step it up a little to 1.5 or 2A. I doubt the reverse EMF is going to be much of a factor.

 

I had a burned track on module PCBA.
Soldered 2 pieces of wire to both ends of the burned track krimped on two 90 degrees fast-ons and stuck a regular size 1Amp fuse on the fastons.
Quite crude but couldn't find a 1 Amp mini fuse for the fuseholder I bought and wintercold convinced me quick action was needed.
This was 4 months ago, no issues since, knock on wood...
(I did also replace the DCCV and checked wiring in the front)

 

Hi, just read your thread, i have a 2007 s type 2.7 diesel, it does have an auxillary coolant pump, i changed mine recently, bit of a hassle but i managed to do it.