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Before anyone blasts me, YES it's best you wear your seatbelt, but....
On long trips etc, there are times you may need/want to unbuckle your belt or perhaps the passenger needs to get something from the back. The seat belt minder in the Jag is very irritating. The manual states the seatbelt minder can be disabled by the dealer; I can only speculate what they would charge. Anyway, I found the instructions here on Jag Forum and thought a tips and trips sticky was a great place to add them.
Pulled from another post:
Note, this does not silence the initial chimes after you start the engine without a fastened seat belt. This remains as a useful reminder but prevents the stupid chiming later, such as when you are driving into the long private driveway to park your Jaguar in the garage of your country estate
1. Ensure the front passenger seat is unoccupied.
NOTE: the next steps (2 to 5) must be completed within 60 seconds.
2. Turn the ignition to the RUN position (do not start the engine).
3. Engage the driver safety belt buckle and wait until the seat belt warning lamp extinguishes.
4. Unbuckle the driver safety belt buckle and wait until the seat belt warning lamp illuminates.
5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 a further eight times.
6. When the driver safety belt buckle is unbuckled for the ninth time a single chime will be heard. The single chime is confirmation that the Beltminder feature has been disabled.
The Beltminder feature will remain disabled even after leaving the car until the above process (Steps 1 to 6) is repeated.
If you repeat the process the Beltminder feature will be reactivated.
@ GoKittyGo, I'm not sure but I doubt you would be only able to roll windows down, but not back up based on year. Push botton a bit longer or harder perhaps? lol no clue.
But I added the cup holder thing. That's a good one too. I forgot about it even though I use it often.
I can't seem to close the windows and sunroof either, and I can't figure out the cup holder trick. Is it possible on a 2001 s type
This is a great list. I thought I knew all the tricks for my car, but low and behold... I learned a couple of new tricks. Thanks ShultzLD and JagV8. JagV8 helped me on my transmission issue and all I can saw is Awesome Awesome.
Great thread - interesting one about the seatbelt chimes. My S-Type doesn't make a sound when a seat belt is undone, no warning lights either. Thank heavens I say but it did make me wonder whether a previous owner had had the chimes turned off by the dealer or they are nonfunctioning. Next time I'm at the dealers (oh the joy of walking into a jag showroom) I'll get him to check. I won't have them turned back on, I like a car that treats you like you know what you're doing..
The mentions of resetting some electronics was interesting. I didn't quite understand what and why but I'll reread and try and get it.
Okay on mine the unlock button thing works, but the closing of all windows doesn't (guess I have to get the dealer to activate that one). I can't get my cupholder out?? I am pulling on it and it doesn't come out?
I have a 2000 s type and there is nothing under any cup holder, just ducts and electrics.
I'm certainly preaching to the converted, and you've all probably seen this but I found this video on the intertube and it talks about some interesting bits and pieces.
If you hold the phone and menu button you get a screen that pops up and asks you to enter a pin. Instead of entering 971 as previously posted, enter 1971 It will let you get into more menus, you can see the live speed, gyro, and bearing of the car as your driving.
Two of the most important tools to have around: needle nose pliers and a can of DeOxit D5 (or other electronic contact cleaner).
Fan was not working regardless of temperature. High failure item on Ford Crown Victorias and is $350 just for the part. Add "Jaguar" to the search, and double the part cost. First to check was the fuse. This one probably had never been removed. Contacts were black, full of carbon. Sprayed with the contact cleaner, and "roughed up" the blades a bit with the needle nose pliers. Fan kicked on immediately. Did NOT need a new fan assembly.
Moral of the story: clean all connectors and pins, fuse contact and the like, when chasing an electric or electronic ghost. It may be something that simple.
So found out something yesterday that I haven't see here before - had a non working remote and had bought a replacement. When I went to have the new key cut and programmed, was asked if I wanted them to reprogram the nonworking unit since they "lose their programming" if not used within about a year. So bottom line if you have one you don't use, use it. and if you have one that you don't use that doesn't work, try reprogramming before buying a replacement. So now I have 3 working, which isn't a bad thing........
Service tech said he thought Jag programmed the remotes to clear memory for theft and security reasons..........but pretty sure that was a speculative comment.
For the S type from year 2000-2002, there is no dash kit for aftermarket stereo receivers.
So make a wooden one, make a lil shelf big enough to fit ur single din receiver and have it upholstered.... i made mine with less than $25 bucks
Hullo Gang Jim from Oz here, great little section on tips and tricks, thanks to every one for their posts.
May I add a word of warning, after replacing two front window regulators/winders the mechanic said the main reason for failure was closing the door with the windows down. The regulators are made to move the glass up and down and due to the type of plastic used in the brackets they cannot cope with the lateral force of a door slam! the window frame does that when the window is is up. See you on the road...
Jim
Last edited by the beagle; 05-17-2015 at 08:15 PM.
Reason: typo
Struggled to find a good link on how to remove the rearview mirror on a 99-2002.5 model S-type. There are good links for >2.25 on youtube. Here's one I found over on RoadFly
The Complete Guide Removing and Replacing Your Int
The self-dimming interior rear-view mirror on my 2000 S-type at first stopped dimming, and then, several months later, dripped out ink, leaving the mirror with several ugly blotches. The one in my car is not only self-dimming, but is also rain-sensing and a built-in compass. The list price at a dealer is $382 for a replacement.
So, I decided to buy one from a junk yard. Surprisingly, I found several at nearby junk yards. The tricky part is figuring out whether the self-dimming mirror on the car that they have is exactly the same as the one you need. The only way to know for sure, I learned, is by asking for the last six digits of the VIN of the car that the junk yard has. Then, with that information, you can call a dealer parts department, and he can tell you what type of mirror that car came with. I found one for $75. There were also listings on Ebay that were similarly priced.
As an alternative to buying a used mirror, you may be able to get yours repaired by Sybesma’s Electronics, in Michigan (phone: 616-392-6911 or 800-456-4265). This is the company that the manufacturer of the self-dimming mirror, Donnelly (Magna Mirrors), Holland, Michigan (phone 616-786-7300) refers their customers to for repairs. If they are able to repair yours, the cost is $75 plus shipping both ways. They won't tell you on the phone whether they can repair a mirror from a certain make and model of car. Instead, they require a photo of the base of your mirror and further information about your mirror to determine if a repair is possible.
My next problem was removing my existing mirror. Mine has a large black triangular sort of plastic cover at the base where it attaches to the windshield. This is the same for 2000 through and including 2002 models. 2003 and later models have a smaller cover, so the attachment mechanism may be different. Since the mirror attachment point is hidden by the plastic cover, it's not easy to figure out how the mirror is attached.
Well, it turns out that hidden under the black plastic cover is a metal part that has two spring clips. This part fits over a square metal "button" that stays on the windshield. To remove the mirror, I just grabbed the edges of the plastic cover where it meets the windshield, and wedged two of my left fingers and two of my right fingers under the plastic edges. I did this while seated in the passenger seat. I kept pulling and pulling and finally, after a great deal of force, the mirror just popped off. It takes a great deal of force to get the mirror off. So much so, that I cut one of my fingers from the edge of the plastic digging into my finger (even though the plastic isn't sharp). Next, I disconnected the electrical connector by pinching the small release tab.
It's best to remove the mirror from the junk yard car yourself, so you can practice on their car, with no risk of damaging your own car.
Installing the replacement mirror also took a great deal of force. To make it easier, I lubricated the "button" on the windshield and the opposing side on the mirror base with white lithium grease. Next, I reconnected the electrical plug. There is a small slot at the top of the black cover through which I routed the wire. I positioned the mirror onto the button and then pressed with all my might (again, sitting in the passenger seat). When that didn't work, with the mirror in the correct spot, I held it in place with my left land and gave the plastic cover a very solid pounding with the my right hand, and that did locked it in place.
When I turned on the car, the mirror dimmed properly, and the compass lit up, but it always showed only South or Southeast, regardless of the direction I was facing. So, next, I had to recalibrate the compass. The mirror cover on the windshield has 2 small holes. I put a paperclip in the right hand hole to set the zone. I pushed the paper clip in the hole and held it down until the readout on the mirror displayed "zone." You can find your zone on the zone map in link below, or perhaps call a local Jaguar dealer or Donnelly and ask them.
After setting the zone I pressed the button in the left hand hole with a paper clip until "cal" was displayed. I then drove in slow small circles until the "cal" display disappeared. I drove in a right-hand circle and it took nearly 4 full circles, and now my compass works correctly.
Very well written and documented with appropriate visuals. I'd love to see real world examples using the Torque phone app. I'm going to have to print this out and read it a few more times so I can get a better grasp of how to interpret my fuel trims. I can see how useful this will be.
12-21-2013, 08:37 AM
Seatbelt minder
re global opening and closing.
Part One--Fuel Trim Primer Rev2.pdf (813.7 KB, 9 views) 