The factory screw jack has a square head with a slot that fits into a very specific spot on a body seam. Not handy or expedient, and not designed for repeat use by those of us that DIY.

For those that lift your cars to swap tires, do brakes etc, what do you use?

 

Hi Mikey. Jacking instructions are laid clearly in owners manual.

 

Ah- let me clarify.

As an alternative to using the factory jack, and given that typical garage floor jacks are not designed for use on cars with pinch/seam welds along the bottom, what type of jack or adapter do you use?

 

Mikey, here's an old thread with explanations, pics and even a diagram from JTIS.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-points-12021/

I've added a link in the "How To" section.

 

There are several places underneath the car that can accomodate a floor jack and the subsequent jack stands, but I also incorporate wood blocks and old towels to eliminate any possibility of underside damage. The key is to take your time, plan your lift, and ensure that the actual lifting is being done at exactly the spot you planned. As pointed out previously, the referenced threads will assist you in achieving a proper lift with no damage....

 

There's an old thread I was on about this topic but I don't remember if I posted pictures of the fixtures I made.

Basically I got four hockey pucks and machined two of them to fit into those spots where the factory jack fits. I trimmed the sides and cut a groove down the middle. On a table saw it's fairly dangerous though, lots of kick back so be careful and wear a hockey mask ...

Then in use I slip that in place plus a regular puck underneath it and then my floor jack can lift with zero damage. I had to reform the folded sheet metal lip which was damaged previously by the monkeys at the few dealerships it ever visited.

I lift both sides simultaneously a bit at a time

In the front you can get the jack stands in the factory designated spot per JTIS.

In the rear the spots are awfully close to where you're lifting from so it's not easy to place the jack stands and on my car one side has plastic stuff mounted in that JTIS designated jack stand location.

They say NOT to lift from the diff housing but I've always been able to do that on all my other cars and that makes the rear jack placement as a second operation very easy.

Has anyone tried this?

Maybe constructing a lifting fixture that aligns with the mounting points would eliminate any chance of a damaged diff housing?

The diff housing is aluminum right?

 

Thank you gentlemen, exactly what I was looking for. Being Canadian, the most common object we have around the house besides beaver pelts is hockey pucks. Looks like I'm all set.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...cations-49152/

Post #8

 

Beaver pelts sounds far more interesting ...

 

What is a hockey puck made from? If it's not wood I'd be concerned whether it might shatter. I use wood blocks (across the grain) so they at most crush, spreading the load as they do.

 

Bob you and Mikey have me in tears.....beaver pelts....LOL! Classic.

JagV8 - hockey puck is made of hard rubber. Really hard rubber.

 

Funniest thing I've read all week! LOL! Thank you!

Glad to see some fellow enthusiasts were able to provide some help. Too often a handful of users here simply feel compelled to get all snooty and dismissive just to look down their noses at people who are simply in need of some basic advice. It's a shame really since that's what sites like this are for. A little camaraderie never hurt a car club.

 

This comes to mind



It appears that there's more in common between hockey pucks and Kentucky Fried Chicken than just taste.

Both are made from a secret blend of ingredients

 

Really? I was ...


But we digress ...

 

When you look at that metal lip and how to put a lifting jig under it the first problem is that each side of the lip are at different elevations.

The hockey puck if it's grooved to a proper depth will bend a bit to accommodate this difference. It's also different front & rear but I have one size that works in both places. I've used it plenty of times and carry a set in my trunk. The second puck is needed so that the floor jack clears the side molding and the rest of that sheet metal seem. I think I just threw away the dimensional drawings a month ago

 

I use a small floor jack on the four spots shown in the manual. I did get a little bend in the metal support but not too bad. If you use a small jack you will have enough room to get a jack stand in there. My big jack won't even reach the spot because the car is too low. Been tempted to jack the diff or front crossmember but know that would cause damage.

 

What a picture!

 

Most of our hockey pucks are at Capitol Hill...

 

This just in:

 

One tip to enable the floor jack (trolley jack here in the UK) to get under the car at the correct jacking point is to drive the car up onto some 4" x 2" blocks placed under the front wheels. This lifts the car by just enough (2") to fit a floor jack and another length of 4" x 2" wood under the front jacking points.