I will apologize in advance - but it needs to be done - a thread on Plastic Rivets
(ad tedium, ad infinitum, ad nauseum).

This is the 3rd consecutive vehicle I've owned that I had to get a used radiator shroud from a wreck. Why mechanics pitch this in any front-end repair is beyond me. Sooooo, I was finally to get one off Ebay ($60. Not bad!) - but of course it didn't come with our favorite item under the hood - plastic tensioners! I mean RIVETS. Sorry, was looking at previous posts griping about the plethora of plastic under our hoods (even inside our engines!).

I own a '98 Ford F-150, and by some miracle, the 1/2" plastic Rivets were a good fit - but the ones that need to be "tapped down" are fragile (go figure) and need to be done slowly and gently. Now, here's the question / punchline: What size do I need for the panel by the cowl/windshield assembly? 4 of mine only had the top of the plastic head in place. Since it's time to replace the cabin filter, if I even LOOK at these, the rivets will disintegrate. So, I need to get the FORD equivalent - since these will come in a 50 pack - enough to cover most screw-ups.

 

I don't know where you are located, but I used the tap down fitting on the front of the cover. The back uses a screw. The covers are very delicate and break easily. The cowl cover is easy to break/crack on the ends.


When I replaced the Cabin air filter, I also cleaned out all the drains with a vacuum and then used water pressure to be sure it was all gone. The driver's side is hard to clean out because coolant tank is in the way, but it only has 2 bolts to ease it out of the way. Don't think about taking the hose off. That is a bear to put back on.


The front fittings I use are O'Reilly fitting DORMAN Nylon 1/2" Rivet number 458130BP. Comes four to the pack for 2.49.


I also found the best tools to use on the plastic are the red plastic interior tools for panel removal. They don't mess up the fitting getting it off. For installation, I use a rubber mallet and about one light whack puts the pin IN. See photo.




Hope that helps a little bit.

 

Measure holes and buy plastic clips from any autoparts store. Diameter is on each pack. They are about $5 for pack of 10. Exception is door panel clips. I couldn't find aftermarket ones and bought from Jaguar dealer.

 

As the years have passed I have replaced a number of plastic fasteners in my S-Type engine bay with metal bolts and/or screws. It's all about improvisation using the collection of loose nuts, bolts, and screws I have accumulated during the last 40 years or so. Occasionally I've purchased various bolts at the hardware store when I didn't have on hand exactly what I needed. Do yourself a favor and replace these plastic rivets with metal fasteners when you remove them to repair or replace various components....

 

As an update-

Both areas (Radiator Shroud and Windshield/cabin filter panel) use 1/2" plastic rivets. I used two different sets of Dorman (they make aftermarket parts primarily for FORD) ones to try to remain consistent across both panels. OK, they're not original Jaguar, but they do the job, and hold the panels securely in place. I shouldn't have to pop them out for another 30,000 miles.

Thanx, Guys!

Dave- BTW, I DID get them from O'Reilly's. More of a selection and cheaper than Auto Zone.

 

I found the correct plastic rivets for both the radiator shroud and windshield/cabin filter scuttle on northlandfasteners.com. You have to search the pictures in the Ford section. I could not find any door panel pins so I had to get them from a junkyard. Hope this helps.

 

I ordered rivets that fit a 2001 Lincoln LS and they fit perfect.. if I can`t locate a Jaguar part I check if the LS has a similar item...