gents and gentlewomen of the board.. I am sad to announce that yet again another 99-02 supercharged jaguar POS 4.0 needs a head gasket.

I am fairly positive it the head and here is why.
1. Was getting misfires in the A2 cylinder periodically especially when cold
2. small coolant loss going missing but nowhere to be found
3. misfires more prevalent even in warmer weather.. same cylinder coil not the problem
4. getting to point the cooling system is over pressurizing forcing coolant from most of the fittings on the expansion tank and even after the engine is cool.. gurgling sounds when the cap is removed.
when run with cap open from cold as soon as the thermo opens bubbles can be seen before level rises rapidly and forces cap to be put on and engine turned off to avoid a mess. block gas testing is not really an option due to this
5 Coups de gras after sitting for about 4 weeks returned from trip to fire her up and hydrolocked.. 4 ounces of coolant in the A2 bore.

Closed it back up after sucking out said coolant and she still runs fine... there has been no overheat on my watch and I bought the car like 8 years ago with 22k on her and she now has 44k or so... at 30k she **** both fuel pumps a couple years ago.. the car has been a disaster.. she is in great shape and took first in her division in a car show here last year.. so I want to save her.. and she is a silverstone vert so 1 of 150 for all of north america...

cant get a quote on this gob around here for less than 4.5k to start and dealer in Raleigh.. who I will never go to.. quoted me more than 2x the book time with a whopping 7k+ estimate.. and near 40 hours labor so they can suck it..

looking at the JTIS which is more useless than the ford engineering that went into the car.. there is no top to bottom procedure for head gaskets and I cant find a single thread here when someone has documented it head to toe... hell, JTIS only has removal for the left head if I am using it right.. it sucks and its no wonder jags own techs have a hard time working on these cars with refs like that.

1. I am looking for either a printed/PDF alldata or some other source for the whole proceedure or at least the proper order.. TB, then charger, then front cover.. etc...

I have the JTIS for what is worth and the jaguar engine build book pdf that had a link here on the boards.. that should give me good torque specs but again is not written for this proceedure but for an engine build.

2. I am looking for some help deciding on proper parts kits etc.. I dont know if I am going to have steel or nikasil / composite or mls etc until I get it off.. there were many running changes and even jag cant give me a straight answer.. no supprise.. tensioners for sure if they are not metal... but how about chains.. waste of money or just do it.

if it is composite .. the vast majority suggest upgrading to MLS as the replacement but I dont know what type the gasket kits come with and if the Block and Head are RA finished for composite, I dont think the MLS will seal well.. head can be decked at the machine shop.. but I cant deck the block in the car.. THOUGHTS.. cometic says they dont make one for the 4.0 or 4.2

3. tips tricks techniques on getting this done and done right.. getting the balancer off the crank, taking the heads out.. do the manifolds stay attached only disconnected from the downpipes.. etc.. keep hood on .. take it off..

4. I have read that the head bolts can be reused and that is from Jag.. but these idiots also say to capture coolant and put it back in during warranty repairs because they are a cheap no quality company.,.. people recommend using the ford ls 3.9 bolts and that might work for the xk8... but it looks like the XKR bolts have a larger diameter above the threads probably to provide extra clamping force for the induction pressure etc.. so what bolt applications work here that are not $15 a bolt.. any parts recommendations would be very welcomed..

5. how to surface prep the block to give it a good chance at a seal without getting contaminates into the oil and cooling journals.. just a good cleaning with chemicals and a plastic scraper or deck it with 600 grit on a glass sheet.. etc

I hope that those that weigh in here have done it and done it successfully and or are trained mechanics.. I dont need guessing, conjecture or urban legend.. thanks but I just dont have the time to sort through and figure out the good advice from bad..


LASTLY... tools.. I dont think I stand a prayer at getting the job done without the timing tool set and the balancer removal tool set. probably a machinist rule and feeler gauges etc etc.. I have a good set of basic tools, air ratchet, and a maxjax 2 post lift.. any tools that I could borrow here from members would help.. saving me about 300 or so from buying on eBay...

will the lift be handy or not necessary.. I know the crank locking pin has to go in and out several times.. any work under the car necessary or is it all done from up top?

I really like this forum and the amount of knowledge here is phenomenal.. I would prefer to have a pro do the work, but having left the service 4 years ago and still not working... we are surviving on a teachers salary (about 1/3 of my mil pay) that my wife brings in and she just wants to set the car on fire... ! and I really cant blame her.

can you guys help me save her.. and my marriage!!

 

Welcome to the forum duecedriver,
I've deleted your other post in the XK/XKR section I'm sure you will get plenty of advice for your POS here.
Don't forget to post an intro in the new members section.

 

thanks Norri.. noticed that someone posted a reply on the other thread.. dont see it here and it was deleted before I could get to it.. any way of getting it back?

 

If you're not inclined to do the job yourself you might want to contact Flying Circus English Cars in Durham. I have no experience myself, but other members have recommended them.

Your engine is probably nikasil, but it doesn't matter if it has not overheated. The engine # is, I think on top of the block at the left front, and the cutoff is 011308 xxxx I think, can't find it right now.

The 4.2L head gaskets will fit without any mod.

JTIS is not easy to navigate without some practice, but I have finally figured it out, but I haven't investigated head gasket replacement. Several threads on the process here, so maybe some one will provide a link.

 

I appreciate the words..

Durham is like 2 hrs from here and with the coolant loss at this point I think that real damage will happen if driven that far.. if at all at this point.. and to flat bed it up there will cost a fortune.. probably also looking at the typical 5k and 20hr+ quote so I am going to have to do the job myself..

you like everyone else is recommending the 4.2 gasket as its MLS type but nobody can answer if jaguar decked and RA their parts differently when the switched.. also, if this is a composite head gasket and the car has a build date of 08/2000 so I am thinking it is.. it will likely have an impression from the fire ring in the block and head. head can be skimmed the block cant.. so I dont know if the mls will seal well...

hopefully more will weigh in with their experience and success or failure in that regard..

dont mind doing the work.. just dont want to do it in vein!!

haha

 

You made the second post yourself, there was nothing else when I deleted it.

 

You can download the engine training course here http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...ining%20Guides and take a look at these threads, (there will be more) https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-1998-a-68299/ https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...gasket-137107/ https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...na-xk8-141107/

 

thanks norri ... I have read all those 'snipet' posts.. I am hoping those experts weigh in and we can bring all the knowledge to one post that handles the job start to finish..

I like the idea of using the 4.2 gaskets if someone can tell me that the RA finish from the factory if I do indeed have composite under there will work, especially on the block since that is not going out to the machine shop. also, does the fire ring leave a defect/mark/low spot in the head and or block that would have to be removed before going MLS.... all good questions

folks seem to recommend the felpro ES72262 head bolt set... but at least the xkr bolts seem to be a thick above on the shank above the threads and while these might work on the NA cars.. can they handle the head lift force in the SC application.. clamping force is what I am talking about...

thanks for the advice guys and keep it coming .. I would really like to get this done right!!

 

Hey DeuceMan!

Got your message, pressed for time this evening... I'll finish my story and help you along all I can for sure!

Back at ya with all I got tomorrow!

NC huh... You must talk funny...
(says the cali boy livin' in MS now...)

 

thanks sailor man... I appreciate it... just an out of work vet that would like to keep the car an my wife .. any help would be appreciated...

I have lived in so many places I can do accents on command.... but yeah.. I have picked up the local drawl.. not as bad as when I was stationed in Biloxi 25 years ago though.. hehe

 

just an update, the generally recommended use of the felpro lincoln LS bolts do not look like a good idea for the xkr.

I talked with a senior tech at felpro, and he says flatly they have no product in their lineup he can recommend for this application. The ls bolts do not have the clamping force to handle the head lift in the supercharged application. thats why the jaguar part has a thicker shoulder on the bolt vs the felpro part...

so now I have to figure out if the ford cross part that supposedly is the in the same box that goes to jaguar is the same bolt.. have to find time to hit the ford dealership.. but my guess is that these bolts in the 99-02 xkr that could be reused are not a standard tty type bolt and were spec'd for the pressure...

thougths!!

 

You will find my saga on my head gasket replacement posted several months ago. Mine is a non super charged car. I opted to have it done at the garage due to the work involved and no lift. One problem is setting the timing corrected after the repair. It takes a "Jag" tool or a make due. It is a major job and I had the head redone and a valve job done while it was off. Good luck!
mind was $4,500usd but I had some other work done also.

 

Hey Sailor... any luck getting your notes together on you job... I know you did yours recently so I am definitely interested on your procedure and parts choices..

motorman gave me a great hint for JTIS that I didnt know.. when I plug in 01 xkr there is for instance only a left head.. but he says if I go into earlier models it will be more complete, that jaguar doesn't duplicate the info.. I have yet to fire it back up.. but I am hoping to find a more complete list in the right order of jobs to get down to the gaskets and back out...

Thanks

 

bump.. was kinda hoping for a bigger jump-in... anyone done this recently.. frequently that can share the tips and tricks...

thanks

 

I have found that the Range Rover 4.2 supercharged bolts are considerably cheaper as others have mentioned.. and are the correct diameter above the threading.. the extra 1mm that the Jag original bolts have that the lincoln ls / felpro bolts dont.. so I think that is the way I am going for bolts at least. I have found ref to re-using them but I just dont think that is smart... anyone ever reuse with good results...?

 

The factory does believe they can be reused once. I understand your aversion to reusing them, but many have done so and not reported problems.
Of course you always have to wonder if the heads have been off before.

 

Do you have the LR head bolt part #? How much are they asking for the bolts?

 

If its just the water side and not the compression side ( issues ) here is something which MAY help:

Not tried it personally but spoke to someone who recommended it.

Good luck.

 

sorry guys.. been away and this project has gone nowhere yet other than investigating options..

I dont have the range rover part number in front of me but its for the RR 4.2 supercharged which is also the same bolt for several of their other vehicles as well.. it looks like a ribe or possibly a polydrive head.. they are so close its hard to tell from the pics.. talked to a tech at british atlantic I think was the company.. master jag tech before moving to RR.. he things it would work...

 

thanks arty.. yeah.. talked to ken ..the owner and mad scientist at steel seal.. my leak is definitely water jacket into compression... probably the same ring deformation/pinch failure that I have seen in other posts..

he thinks that his product that he developed for the northstar will work.. but that is a head lift issue.. not a fire ring into the bore hotspot issue so I dont think his product will work for me too well.. he is a great chemist he just has no idea about mechanics by the sound of it..

I might give it a try.. but a 2 part thermal epoxy in there doesn't thrill me .. and if and when it fails again might make the surfaces hard to condition to do a proper head gasket.. especially on the block side...

still thinking about it since I am not getting many folks weighing in here

looking at engine bay clearance I am still not sure how I am going to get at some of the valve cover bolts let alone the hard stuff...