I can't get the lower IMT out because of a bracket that holds the wiring harness is in the way. I can't see how to remove the bracket ? Any helpful hints ? I have been prying and pushing against the bracket, but there isn't enough movement to get the IMT out without removing it. I have a 2000 S Type which is different than the pictures in this tread.

 

Welcome to the forum Kimbodad.

Its been along time since I have done this. As I recall you don't want to pull and pry to much on that wire harness, it could lead to bigger problems down the road.

Two things come to mind. I know its tight in that area. Did you remove the pollen filter piece that is mentioned in post #3?

Secondly find the bolt(s) holding the wiring harness in place and remove to give more wiggle room.

Just a thought as well, you do not have to remove the actual valve fully. I believe that Brutal mentioned to pull it out slightly, cut the old o ring (discard) and roll new o ring onto the valve.

Good luck and let us know.

Can't sleep. I was just reviewing this entire high jacked thread. Posts 88, 89 and a couple after that offer good insight on that wiring harness in the earlier models. Again good luck and report back, please.

 

my car has been smelling oil since 3 months when i use A/C and i ve found out (thx to the forum !) that my Imt are leaking (i have a 2001 v6 s type). im going to change them as quickly as possible...

it seems that burned oil issue is linked with this leak but are there any others issues related to IMT leak? for ex engine issue ?

 

Older 3.0 has other problems, too. Check out the hose elbow that makes an air leak.

Use OBD to read codes and to read fuel trims.

 

i ve just changed my IMG o-rings. Engine seems to be a little bit "smoother" than before

the oring located behind the engine was in a very bad shape and leaking a lot, a spot of oil was visible under the IMT.

i didnt have any issue like check engine light or other kind of problems except an burned oil smell when i was accelerating harder than usually.

piece of advice about first gen v6 (before M45254 serial number i assume) : you don't have to remove anything to access the IMT. The first is located on the top of the engine and the second is roughly at the same place than on second gen engine.

it was tricky and you need small hands but i did it without removing anything and with "classic" tools only.

 

My EMT units just slid right out, lower one was snug but had no issues. I didn't check the VIN # but must be the earlier one. It's a 03 2.5. 176,000 miles.Will need to do so work in the spring as it's been a couple years since I done the IMTs.

 

Bought the O-rings from http://www.motorcarsltd.com/C2S40669.html Shipping cost more than the rings. I received ordinary black rubber rings that fit perfectly.


My car had the old yellow ones that feel more like hard plastic than an O-ring. They were flattened and didn't have any elasticity.


Started 8:30 this morning and was done by 10:30. Your pics and descriptions were perfect.


Thanks Mike

 

Glad this tutorial helped you out Mike.

Your welcome.

 

Did this yesterday, everything was spot on, so glad you went to the trouble to document the process...I also had a slight issue with the wiring harness, I managed to pry the retainer clip loose and move the harnesses themselves and then loosened the small 8 mm on the engine that holds the bracket...it gave me enough flex to get the part out...I think the idea of simply slipping the O-rings on is ok, but if the old rings looked anything like mine cleaning the chamber of that yellow fitting paste is probably enough motivation to take your time and get the IMT out...I actually used a peice of 2000 grit emory cloth to slightly polish the chamber since that yellow stuff was caked on everywhere...my car is a 2001 S-type v6...again thanks so much for the post!

 

Iomegaman, glad you found this post useful.

Your welcome

 

Do these O-Rings disturb performance significantly?

 

When the two yellow-colored factory IMT O-rings begin to fail, they cause oil leaks and misfires. Any 3.0 V6 engine that still has its original IMT O-rings needs to have the new-and-improved green-colored O-rings installed as soon as possible. It is a long-proven no-brainer. Just do it....

 

I replaced mine with the black ones (they were sold to my by a Jag parts dealer as the right part and I didn't fuss about it)...the first thing I noticed was the oil smell in the cabin went away, which was a big plus for me...now because they were NOT the green ones it may have been a very slight difference but when I was in the midwest where the temperatures were quite cold I noticed my fuel consumption seemed about the same, but since coming back to a warmer climate (Tucson desert) I have notice a sincere increase in fuel economy, maybe 1-2 gallons a mile even in city driving...my current mpg in stop and go city is about 25.3 mpg whereas before it was sub 22...your mileage may or may not vary...I tend to baby mine a bit and also have recently repaired the valve body and changed transmission fluid on my tranny...like Jon89 said it's a no brainer...

I also will add that my car is above 153k miles right now...getting that kind of fuel economy for a car 15 years old is really kind of remarkable...treat them right...

 

Anyone know how to get the wiper arms off. I swear these things have never been off my wife's 2005 SType. Used half a can of penetrant already. Followed the directions in the first post several times last week. Any ideas?

 

Did you use real penetration oil like PB Blaster or did you use WD40? Pry the black plastic covers off the wiper arm bases. Apply PB Blaster over night maybe a couple days. The nuts and wipers should be able to pop off.

Good luck.

 

I've always been able to pry mine off using two spanners underneath.
You can always get a set of pullers from one of the auto stores.

 

If the nuts are off, pull the wiper arms up toward you a bit, then work the connection at the shaft, rocking toward and away from the windscreen, and simultaneously rocking it side-to-side radially. It will eventually pop off. Or use a puller...but there's not much room there and the bonnet will likely be in your way.

 

As others have indicated, you have to get after it with some muscle and willpower. A few choice cusswords loudly thrown in for good measure should also help....

 

It might sound improbable but it IS possible to remove the back IMT valve without removing the bar/wiper/assembly...you just need to position the valve correctly as you maneuver...(there is ONE spot down and turned that it will allow this, it is tricky to find but not impossible).

 

Hey all, I appreciated finding this post. I recently bought a 2002 S-Type with V6. I normally park it with the nose downhill in my drive but backed it in with the nose uphill one day. When I started it the next day smoke came out from under the hood before it even warmed up much. I carefully opened the hood to check for flames. No flames but oily smoke was coming from the exhaust manifold on the back right of the engine. I reached my hand back behind the intake manifold and hit a big oil drip. That is when I hit this site and found this thread so here is what I learned from my 2002 with pictures.

One IMT is right on top of the intake as can be seen. The lower one is just behind below my wrench in the picture. The upper IMT seemed tight with no leaks that I know of so I didn’t mess with it.

My wipers came off easily by just grabbing the arms and twisting up and down a few times to free them up once the nuts were off; no hammering. My cowl cover push pull clips were all old and brittle and didn’t survive removing them as they just crumbled apart. Does anyone know a source for new ones??? I just got the closest thing that I thought would work but they aren’t the best. No Jaguar dealers near me to ask. Next, some of the little black washers under the cowl cover screws also fell apart. Is there a source for these??? My windshield washer jets are in the hood so no lines to mess with making the whole job a lot easier.

I didn’t need to take the cross bar off to reach the lower IMT screws. The 2002 cross bar also has a center support to the cowl if removal is needed as seen in the upper right of my first picture.



The lower IMT screws were loose and oil was also coming out through the thread holes around these screws. When I reinstalled them I used a thread sealer as seen in the last picture. The screws seemed fairly easy to reach either going under or over the cross bar and I have semi-fat hands.

My biggest problem was getting the IMT to slide out. There is a wiring harness attached to a support just behind the IMT that blocks removal. I struggled to get the plastic push pin (seen in this picture) out of this flimsy support so that I could move the wire loom up out of the way to get the IMT out. Once the loom is loose, the support bracket can easily be pushed back to get the IMT to wiggle free. Positioning is still key to getting the flapper part of the IMT to slide out of the hole and then go back in.



The old yellow o-ring was semi-hard and had absolutely no resistance when pulling the valve out of the hole; leaking badly. The new green o-ring had some resistance going back in so hopefully it won’t leak.



After a few miles of driving, the last of the oil burned off so that I could again use my vents inside the car without getting smoke. I had already replaced a very, very dirty cabin air filter earlier so that was still good. The drain around the driver’s side windshield wiper post was full of leaves etc. so I flushed that out with a hose. Also, I found my o-rings on eBay. They are listed for about $5 to about $25 with free shipping. They said genuine Jaguar but didn’t come in a Jaguar parts bag.

Thanks to all for posting. By the way, I am in NC just north of “Race City USA”. Rick, I think I saw that you are just down in SC on the other side of Charlotte. Maybe we can meet up sometime. Later all.