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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 04:18 PM
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Default interior plastic reinforcement

Hi guys, as many of you know a lot of plastic on the interior of my car broke thanks to the heat while the car was parked in the time my dad was sick. I'm buying parts but i'm afraid that in the future as they are used parts will happen the same. So, i wanted to do something to the plastic before starting to put all the parts in the car and came across with this video


I thought that probably this will reinforces the plastic and last longer, doing this on the back of some of the plastic where the thickness of the material allows me to do it.
Also thought on just using the mesh and melt it a little bit in the back of the plastic without using the liquid ABS steps showned in the video.
And a third one that i though was using fiberglass in the back of the plastic.

Any thought on this three options? good or bad just let me know your opinion

Any other idea on how to reinforce the plastic?

Thanks
 

Last edited by e_brugal; Mar 18, 2025 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 07:25 PM
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I would not be too keen on trying out the method shown in the video, because they use Acetone, and Acetone is a carcinogen, i.e. it could very likely cause cancer.

I just repaired the front-skirt under the engine of my S-Type - it was torn into pieces at many points.

I used an old soldering iron (and a face-shield at breathing protection (a breathing mask would be even better)), which I use for plastic repairs only. I made the tip of that soldering iron myself: I bought a copper bar and cut a short bit off.
I used a thin bit of wire and bend it by hand into the shape shown below.
I forced that bent wire into the ABS along the crack with the heat of the soldering iron.
I do that from the side, which is not visible afterwards.
After that first step I smoothen the other (good) side with the soldering iron.
Then I smoothen the side with the wire in with the soldering iron.
Then I smoothen everything with sandpaper.
Then I apply a bit of left-over ATF (automatic transmission fluid) or plastic restorer to make it look even better.



 
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 06:43 AM
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My 2002 S type has the same issue with interior plastic parts. I had an issue with the lower part of the centre console (under the gearshift). It had cracked in a couple of places and when the park solenoid, on the back of the gearshift assembly, got stuck and I had to remove the upper part of the console, the lower section more or less disintegrated. This part is unavailable, even used since it cannot be removed without damage. I did a decent repair by assembling the parts on the inside using an epoxy for plastic parts and a fibreglass mat for autobody repair. This has to be done very carefully in stages, since tolerances are tight in reassembly. To make the exterior look good, I used a vinyl Interior fabric sold as a match for Jaguar ivory upholstery and applied with an aerosol upholstery adhesive. The finished repair is almost unnoticeable unless a concours judge is inspecting the car.

The fibreglass mat definitely seems to work,
 
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Peter_of_Australia
I would not be too keen on trying out the method shown in the video, because they use Acetone, and Acetone is a carcinogen, i.e. it could very likely cause cancer.

I just repaired the front-skirt under the engine of my S-Type - it was torn into pieces at many points.

I used an old soldering iron (and a face-shield at breathing protection (a breathing mask would be even better)), which I use for plastic repairs only. I made the tip of that soldering iron myself: I bought a copper bar and cut a short bit off.
I used a thin bit of wire and bend it by hand into the shape shown below.
I forced that bent wire into the ABS along the crack with the heat of the soldering iron.
I do that from the side, which is not visible afterwards.
After that first step I smoothen the other (good) side with the soldering iron.
Then I smoothen the side with the wire in with the soldering iron.
Then I smoothen everything with sandpaper.
Then I apply a bit of left-over ATF (automatic transmission fluid) or plastic restorer to make it look even better.

Good to know, didn't know the cancer part.

The parts that got damaged no longer exist so no parts to repair, i want to reinforce the used parts that i'm buying. I have a soldering tip for plastic, maybe doing the same as you did but instead of using the bend wire i use a mesh in the inside of the part like in this video from 0:45 sec to 1:56 sec or use fiberglass?

 

Last edited by e_brugal; Mar 19, 2025 at 08:42 AM.
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by expattim
My 2002 S type has the same issue with interior plastic parts. I had an issue with the lower part of the centre console (under the gearshift). It had cracked in a couple of places and when the park solenoid, on the back of the gearshift assembly, got stuck and I had to remove the upper part of the console, the lower section more or less disintegrated. This part is unavailable, even used since it cannot be removed without damage. I did a decent repair by assembling the parts on the inside using an epoxy for plastic parts and a fibreglass mat for autobody repair. This has to be done very carefully in stages, since tolerances are tight in reassembly. To make the exterior look good, I used a vinyl Interior fabric sold as a match for Jaguar ivory upholstery and applied with an aerosol upholstery adhesive. The finished repair is almost unnoticeable unless a concours judge is inspecting the car.

The fibreglass mat definitely seems to work,
yes, i know how you feel, that exact same part is one that broke on both sides, the bad part for me is that it broke in a lot of little parts that is really hard to put it back together again. from center console i got lower center both side, cup holder, ashtray, and rear air vent damaged. the upper center console is in good condition.

fiberglass seems to be a good option
 

Last edited by e_brugal; Mar 19, 2025 at 08:43 AM.
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 07:29 AM
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Yes, using the wire-mat rather than my bent wire is another option.

Another idea, which served me well, where OPTICS are of the essence, i.e., where it is important, that it looks good afterwards:
The plastic inside just behind the windscreen was broken into several pieces on one of my S-Types. The solution I came up with putting it back together SOMEHOW, regardless of how it looks, and it a next step I carefully fitted real genuine leather over it in the colour of my S-Type (green leather for a green S-Type. That looks better than OE from the factory. Btw.: I also did that on one of my X-Types (where I had to add cut-outs for the air-vents in that area). On the X-Type I did it not because the plastic was broken, but simply because "plastic" is not suited really for use in a Jaguar in my opinion (yes, I know, there is plastic everywhere, but there it was most visible...) - and again: Green leather for a green X-Type.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 07:48 AM
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In the video, note the ABS item being repaired is an external aftermarket item. The internal OEM parts most likely are not ABS or anything similar. Just a hunch, but I suspect any interior plastic bits are going to be a different class of material that is somewhat flame retardant.

I learned this the hard way working on a different vehicle. Some of the interior plastic had cracked. I stop drilled the damage and carefully fitted some sheet styrene patches on the backside. I used model airplane cement, and it melted just the right amount into my beautifully fitted patches. I was busy patting myself on the back until the patches fell off upon reinstallation. The cement didn't touch the OEM plastic. Whatever material it was, the chemical in the cement had no effect on it. I had to revamp my work with epoxy and CA adhesive instead. I suspect the homemade ABS slurry in the video will behave the same way.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 10:17 AM
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I dont know if this was touched on but there are dedicated plastic welders available. Much like Peters solder iron. Maybe pricey at first but you would be surprised how much you would use it. I got one for a repair for my different tool cases that were breaking and with grandkids it has paid for itself. Just a thought
 
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 03:46 PM
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I got the Harbor Freight one but struggled to get anything that worked or stayed together. I did read some and the real plastic welders use Nitrogen as a shielding gas. With air welders your blowing O2 directly into the hot molten plastic and oxidizing it. Now I have seen some pretty good hot air welds so I know it's possible. The Nitrogen plastic welders are way beyond a home shop tool!
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter_of_Australia
Yes, using the wire-mat rather than my bent wire is another option.

Another idea, which served me well, where OPTICS are of the essence, i.e., where it is important, that it looks good afterwards:
The plastic inside just behind the windscreen was broken into several pieces on one of my S-Types. The solution I came up with putting it back together SOMEHOW, regardless of how it looks, and it a next step I carefully fitted real genuine leather over it in the colour of my S-Type (green leather for a green S-Type. That looks better than OE from the factory. Btw.: I also did that on one of my X-Types (where I had to add cut-outs for the air-vents in that area). On the X-Type I did it not because the plastic was broken, but simply because "plastic" is not suited really for use in a Jaguar in my opinion (yes, I know, there is plastic everywhere, but there it was most visible...) - and again: Green leather for a green X-Type.

will look into that option too, thanks!!
 
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kr98664
In the video, note the ABS item being repaired is an external aftermarket item. The internal OEM parts most likely are not ABS or anything similar. Just a hunch, but I suspect any interior plastic bits are going to be a different class of material that is somewhat flame retardant.

I learned this the hard way working on a different vehicle. Some of the interior plastic had cracked. I stop drilled the damage and carefully fitted some sheet styrene patches on the backside. I used model airplane cement, and it melted just the right amount into my beautifully fitted patches. I was busy patting myself on the back until the patches fell off upon reinstallation. The cement didn't touch the OEM plastic. Whatever material it was, the chemical in the cement had no effect on it. I had to revamp my work with epoxy and CA adhesive instead. I suspect the homemade ABS slurry in the video will behave the same way.
The day i was cleaning the interior and taking out all the damaged plastic parts i checked the back of them and all said "ABS".

At the end i will not use the method on the first video post, Acetone is a carcinogen as mention by Peter_of_Australia and saddly since my great grandfather almost all descendants have suffered or died of cancer (my Great granfather, Aunt, and my dad died from cancer, 1 uncle is right now with cancer and My grandfather survived two cancer) Probably inevitable but trying to avoid it at all cost


This photo was shamelessly stolen from ebay, it is from the rear air vent.


 
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