Guys, I just came across this one - mixing baking soda with Krazy glue. I wish I knew about this when I was trying to repair the last piece of plastic that broke / wore out.

I've yet to test it, but if it works half as good as shown, I'll be thrilled! Perhaps no more wondering: what kind of plastic is this, which glue works? Thinking if I could only recreate this shape . . .

John

 

Recently I started using SG and chopped fiberglass to act as a filler. I used this to rebuild seat belt clam shells.
I think there is a lot of potential here, maybe this and 3D printing will lessen the need to find some elusive pieces from the wrecker/breaker yards.
wj

 

I’m wondering if this might work to repair the broken plastic tabs on the inside of door cards where the nylon clips connect to the cards

 

I’m wondering if this might work to repair the broken plastic tabs on the inside of door cards where the nylon clips connect to the cards

 

It can’t be any worse than the alternatives. I tried the factory part and also a 3-D printed part. After a while they both failed.

The good news is I’m getting pretty good at removing and installing the door cover.

Z

 

John - If this is true then this link may change my life

 

Be sure to avoid breathing in the fumes from mixing. Sure to be toxic to every living thing.

Z

 

My dad taught my son this years ago for working on model cars. Its definitely sturdy, and I have wondered about using it for plastic parts

 

I've gotten rather good at this - basically, you need some teeny tiny self-tapping countersunk screws, a washer, a center punch, a drill, a piece of scrap wood and a file. I'll post a video if I can be bothered next time I fix one. I broke a few at first because I have been spoiled on Toyota interiors which have more forgiving clips, which are easily replaced with generic items. But Jaguar... oh Jaguar you just have to be special don't you?

1. Basically, drill a hole in the wood to hold your broken fir tree clip while you work on it, and stick the clip in. Its almost always the top that breaks off. You could also use a pair of mole grips or whatever but shoving the piece in a block of wood while you drill it gives the best result without mashing up the clip.
2. File the break flat. This is important to ensure you washer sits square on the top.
3. Take a center punch and put a guide mark right in the center to stop the drill walking.
4. Drill it out with a teeny tiny drill bit. Be very careful to keep the pilot hole dead straight in the fir tree clip. This is why using a wood block and clamp helps.
5. Take your teeny tiny countersunk screw and washer and screw it into the top of the clip. (obvs your screw has to suit your drill hole and not split the clip down the middle...)
6. Voila! a repaired clip that hasn't so far broken on removal.

Once you have all the bits, it takes about 2 minutes per clip to repair them. I chose to do this because it was a 2 hour round trip to a jag dealer, and about $9 a clip, or a multiple days shipping wait. It was quicker and easier and cheaper to fix them and they are stronger too now.
The first couple I did I didn't use a countersunk screw and as a result had to dremel the tops of the screw heads flat to fit in the receivers on the door card. Or, you could file out the receivers to accommodate the screw heads. I did that on one, and though it is a faff, it does make the fir tree clip hold on dead rigid.