Groovy, thanks for the update. I was wondering how it all played out. Did you replace the DCCV, too?

I have one concern with the replacement blower motor controller. I think it's an electronic module, not a resistor pack as on many other vehicles. This is an important distinction, as a resistor pack can get very hot. These are typically mounted inside the ductwork so it is cooled by passing airflow. I think the location also keeps the heat safely away from any items that could burn, such as paper trash that might get kicked behind the dash. Although a location like that is a good idea, any debris that gets in the duct can still burn. I've had pine needles get trapped and smolder in my pickup, for example.

The part shown in the photos has big heatsink fins. That suggests to me it gets warm but not super hot. Was the original one mounted with the heatsink inside one of the ducts? If so, I'd suggest keeping a close eye on it to make sure it doesn't get excessively hot and create a fire hazard. I don't think it will, but it's worth checking to be safe.

Thanks again for the update.

 

I'm having the same problem as Mike March. I didn't do a bypass and I want to figure out what the problem is. I changed out the DCCV with a brand new one, and still not heat.

 

Cant just throw parts at it it. Gotta troubleshoot it and find where the thing stops working.

I found lots of corroded contacts under the hood and it was preventing my supercharger pump from running.

Im still trying to get ac but I am doing it logically

 

This is J hoodied,

The heat is working now. I unplugged the DCCV and the heat started working, then I plugged it back in and it's still working. However, now I have a new problem. The radiator fan is running hard. I bleed the coolant system as best I can, but after about 10mins in idle, the fan starts to run hard. If I blast the heat, it'll calm down. So I'm wondering why the sensor is getting so hot as to cause the fan to run hard... it didn't do this before I changed the DCCV.

Any thoughts out there?

 

You need to bleed the trapped air out of the coolant circuit. Also, when you disconnect the DCCV is goes to full heat as the solenoids are deengerized.

 

I have same problem after changing DCCV and can't find any break in wiring. At wits end I connected 12vit battery to 3 pin socket .centre negative and both coils and spindles are operating .so fitted two toggle switches into ashtray with 12volt feed and direct to spare plug .original disconnected.so now can switch heat on and off manually and control temperature with fan speed.job done