keyfob problem
Did both the key fobs work before?
Are there, or has there been any other issues or work done on the car?
Did you replace a dead battery in the key fob? If so, before you did this did you use the key lock in the door for the first time in years?
Mellow
Are there, or has there been any other issues or work done on the car?
Did you replace a dead battery in the key fob? If so, before you did this did you use the key lock in the door for the first time in years?
Mellow
i replaced the battery but still the same so i guess its not a dead battery issue, i never used the key lock until now (i dont know what about the first owner).
Sorry I did not make it clear...
Do you still have the second remote key fob that came with the car when it was new?
If so does it work?
The remotes can be damaged by static when you change the battery, and obvioulsy they are now 11 years old.
If the only remote you have is faulty you will need to use the Jaguar SSD software to try and add any new or replacement remotes.
However if they can not be added it could be a faulty module on the car. I think the only way to test this is to try and add the remotes using the jaguar SDD software.
(Please note that the method for adding remotes to the X-type does not work on the S-type.)
Mellow
Do you still have the second remote key fob that came with the car when it was new?
If so does it work?
The remotes can be damaged by static when you change the battery, and obvioulsy they are now 11 years old.
If the only remote you have is faulty you will need to use the Jaguar SSD software to try and add any new or replacement remotes.
However if they can not be added it could be a faulty module on the car. I think the only way to test this is to try and add the remotes using the jaguar SDD software.
(Please note that the method for adding remotes to the X-type does not work on the S-type.)
Mellow
Last edited by M-e-l-l-o-w; Oct 11, 2019 at 10:16 AM.
Sorry I did not make it clear...
Do you still have the second remote key fob that came with the car when it was new?
If so does it work?
The remotes can be damaged by static when you change the battery, and obvioulsy they are now 11 years old.
If the only remote you have is faulty you will need to use the Jaguar SSD software to try and add any new or replacement remotes.
However if they can not be added it could be a faulty module on the car. I think the only way to test this is to try and add the remotes using the jaguar SDD software.
(Please note that the method for adding remotes to the X-type does not work on the S-type.)
Mellow
Do you still have the second remote key fob that came with the car when it was new?
If so does it work?
The remotes can be damaged by static when you change the battery, and obvioulsy they are now 11 years old.
If the only remote you have is faulty you will need to use the Jaguar SSD software to try and add any new or replacement remotes.
However if they can not be added it could be a faulty module on the car. I think the only way to test this is to try and add the remotes using the jaguar SDD software.
(Please note that the method for adding remotes to the X-type does not work on the S-type.)
Mellow
i tried to change the battery after the key stoped working.
i tried this method:
Turn the ignition to 1, then to 2 and back to 1. Do this 5 times and then you should hear a ding. immediately after the chime, pull the key and hold any button on the key fob. You should hear another ding which signifies that the key is programmed.
but its not working.
i have the spare key they both don't work.
i tried to change the battery after the key stoped working.
i tried this method:
Turn the ignition to 1, then to 2 and back to 1. Do this 5 times and then you should hear a ding. immediately after the chime, pull the key and hold any button on the key fob. You should hear another ding which signifies that the key is programmed.
but its not working.
i tried to change the battery after the key stoped working.
i tried this method:
Turn the ignition to 1, then to 2 and back to 1. Do this 5 times and then you should hear a ding. immediately after the chime, pull the key and hold any button on the key fob. You should hear another ding which signifies that the key is programmed.
but its not working.
Using the Jaguar SDD software is the only way to add/program keys to the S-type.
Did the spare work before?
Did both stop working at the same time?
Did the spare stop working some time ago and you just left it?
As mentioned try the boot/trunk button.
There is also a sliding cover on the key hole that has a switch on it and these can become stuck in the open position. Make sure that when the key is out the hole is covered.
Mellow
Last edited by M-e-l-l-o-w; Oct 14, 2019 at 07:30 AM.
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As far as I know this ignition on and off method only works on the X-type not on the S-type.
Using the Jaguar SDD software is the only way to add/program keys to the S-type.
Did the spare work before?
Did both stop working at the same time?
Did the spare stop working some time ago and you just left it?
As mentioned try the boot/trunk button.
There is also a sliding cover on the key hole that has a switch on it and these can become stuck in the open position. Make sure that when the key is out the hole is covered.
Mellow
Using the Jaguar SDD software is the only way to add/program keys to the S-type.
Did the spare work before?
Did both stop working at the same time?
Did the spare stop working some time ago and you just left it?
As mentioned try the boot/trunk button.
There is also a sliding cover on the key hole that has a switch on it and these can become stuck in the open position. Make sure that when the key is out the hole is covered.
Mellow
2. i guess so
3. i belive its worked before and the problem is not with the keyfobs himself.
4. if you talk about the button in the keyfob than its not working.
5. you talk about the key hole inside or the hole in the door?
#5 refers to the sliding tab that covers the tumblers in the ignition switch lock. The sliding piece, or tab, sometimes sticks open after the key a removed; this causes issues as some modules do not power down and "go to sleep" as they are programmed to do.
here is a picture
im not sure what i suppose to see, from the picture i sent it looks okay or need to fix?
Regarding the hole where the key goes in:
You should not be able to see down the hole. There should be a cover/flap in the hole when the key is removed.
If you can see down the hole the cover is not closing as it should and this will cause issues with the locking as the various moduels will act as if there was a key inserted.
It looks to me, from your photo that this could well be your problem. The cover/flap is not closing in the key hole.
This is a known issue.
The security system on the car is set up so that when there is a key in the ingition the remote locking and unlocking does not work.
Put a cover of some type on the carpet under the lock and then spray some WD-40 in the hole then work the key in and out. Hopefully the flap should start working again.
However WD-40 is not ideal for use in locks as it attracts dust and dirt and you may well end up doing the same job again at a later date, so perhaps some 'silicone dry spray' would be better? This dries out leaving a thin coating of silicone that does not attract the dust and dirt.
Mellow
You should not be able to see down the hole. There should be a cover/flap in the hole when the key is removed.
If you can see down the hole the cover is not closing as it should and this will cause issues with the locking as the various moduels will act as if there was a key inserted.
It looks to me, from your photo that this could well be your problem. The cover/flap is not closing in the key hole.
This is a known issue.
The security system on the car is set up so that when there is a key in the ingition the remote locking and unlocking does not work.
Put a cover of some type on the carpet under the lock and then spray some WD-40 in the hole then work the key in and out. Hopefully the flap should start working again.
However WD-40 is not ideal for use in locks as it attracts dust and dirt and you may well end up doing the same job again at a later date, so perhaps some 'silicone dry spray' would be better? This dries out leaving a thin coating of silicone that does not attract the dust and dirt.
Mellow
Last edited by M-e-l-l-o-w; Oct 16, 2019 at 03:26 AM.
Jingo09: Good advice in Mellow's post. You do not indicate your trim level or location in your posts, but if your car is equipped with an adjustable steering column, when the rotary switch is set to "automatic," your driver's seat should move to its most rearward limit of travel when the key is removed; if it fails to do so, the flap/tab/cover/door over the tumblers is not returning to its fully closed position. There is a micro switch attached to the cover which sends a signal that the key has been removed.
What fuse box was at fault? Was a fuse not pushed in fully? If it was a poor connection it could be a dry solder joint in the fuse box. But I hope not, because I had enough of dry joint problems with by previous XJ40!
As to the lock flap, no do not use WD-40 if there is no problem as it will attract the dust and dirt and give you more problems! However 'dry silicone spray' in the locks is a good idea.
Mellow
Specifically, which fuses were loose? Which panel and fuse numbers?
Loose fuses has been a known problem with these cars. Some owners have reported success (with other faults) by gently reforming the sockets to grip the fuses more tightly.
I have had this issue with the keyfob not working caused by the ignition key switch flap sticking open.
WD40 cured it.







