Yesterday, out of the blue, my keyless remote stopped working to my 2005 S-type.

I thought the battery was dead so I changed it... still does not work.

What else can be the problem?

 

They are overpriced pieces of crap that fail. Does your other key work or do you only have one? I've been through 6 keys on my S-type before I finally gave up and went aftermarket with the car. Best $100 I ever spent. Strangely, my X-type never had an issue with the keys, and has been through a few battery replacements.

Although you really need to know what you're doing to install an aftermarket keyless entry system in one of these cars.

George

 

if you want to install just a keyless unit, we have the RF225 which can be added to your vehicle by an installer. Wiring and locations are as follows:

Power Unlock BLACK/WHITE (-) INSIDE DRIVERS DOOR
USE A DOUBLE PULSE TO UNLOCK DOORS.
PowerLock BLACK/GREEN (-) INSIDE DRIVERS DOOR

Battery BROWN/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition WHITE/GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Parking Lights WHITE/GREEN (+) AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH
Trnk Release BLACK/GREEN (-) AT SWITCH


*NOTE: hooking up the door locks in the above location, will arm/disarm the factory alarm also*

Those are the main wires you will need to have the unit function. Dont forget the ground wire though. Other than that, that would be the least amount of wires to hook up to have it work. If you want more info on the system goto www.autopageusa.com and then click products. That unit can be used as a standard keyless entry or basic alarm. It is programmable either way.

 

Jason, it's actually easier than that my keyless module is actually in the driver's door, all the wires you need are there.

I tapped constant power and ground off of the factory driver's door module. Ign switched is also there. Lock / unlock (including factory arm disarm) are there (and only there).

The drivers door sends a can bus message to the rear electronics module to lock / unlock the car. And release the trunk and or / flash high beams.

No need to do parking lights separately in a Jag. The Rear electronics module flashes them when the car is externally locked / unlocked.

The trunk release can also be tapped at the general electronics module in the driver's kick panel.

I diode isolated the trunk release output and tied it to the factory lock wire, that way if I stand on the trunk release button, the car global closes the windows and the roof. (As if you are holding the key turned in the lock position) The trunk still locks / unlocks with the remote, just doesn't pop. But all you have to do is walk up and tap the button. I hated how the trunk would swing wide open anyway, so I never used that feature anyhow.

Oh and the double pulse you mention is optional, not required. It is if you want "single stage" unlocking, where all the doors unlock simultaneously with the first press of the unlock button. If you want to just unlock the driver door on the first press, and then require an additional press to unlock the rest of the car (my personal preference), you don't need the double pulse.

In my opinion its a much better use of the trunk feature, but all you would have to do is feed one wire through the door into the kick panel if you wanted to "pop" the trunk.

I can give the original poster wiring diagrams and specific pin / connector info if he wants to do this. I have it all mapped out.

George

 

excellent info, and yes you could do it like that. I like to have everything inside though. Its just my opinion. If all your doing is keyless, then yes you could do it just like george said.

 

BKS....I think the only permanent solution is to have it re-programed at the dealer. Any self-programming routines (turn ignition on and off 10 times in 2 seconds with both hands holding each door mirror, etc) are ineffective. Mine worked 1/2 the time before giving up the ghost entirely. I had marginal sucess cleaning out the ignition switch and spraying lightly with WD40...I understand there are instances where the ignition switch "doors" are not closing when the key is removed, thus the vehicle thinks the key is still in the ignition, in which case nothing on it will work. I have the remote re-program on my bucket list when the car goes in the shop next week. I'll let you know how I make out. It's getting old locking and unlocking with the key in the door.

 

There is NO self programming routing on an S-Type with switchblade keys. It has to be done on a Jaguar IDS computer. Go aftermarket and save yourself the heartache.

George

 

I had two keys, one I put aside as a spare. The spare key still works.
I replaced the battery in the key that I was having problems with,,, still not working. When I am in the area, I will stop by dealer and get it reprogramed.

 

Maybe its the valet thing?

 

I have found that the tiny brass connector in the battery compartment of the fob loses contact with the battery. I have got mine to work again by tapping it in my hand and taking it apart and putting it together again.

 

I had the same issue as Delta66, the little brass piece slipped to one side. I took the remote apart, slid the brass piece over to where it was aligned properly and it worked great, had nothing before. It seems my wife would always push a little sideways instead of down on the unlock button and worked it loose. Just a temp fix until you can get a knew one.

 

If you need them, I've got 6, yes 6 different fobs. I accumulated all these before I gave up on the factory keyless and went aftermarket.

George

 

You should change your screen name to "Fobulous"....