Guys,here is my car:
2002 S Type V8
65,000 miles

I have a leak somewhere below my coolant reservoir. I've tried to search the forum but have not really come up with anything (maybe I'm not searching right). I have a few questions:

1. My plan is to take out the tank and inspect. Is there a trick to this? seems like I have to take off the wipers, plastic shroud and loosen the strut tower brace. Sound correct?

2. I have not crawled under the car yet (will do that this weekend). Is it easy to see the hoses, etc?

3. Is there a common spot where these fail? Or is it hit or miss?

Any advise would be helpful

 

Some guys that have done this on your yr and engine size may chime in but I can tell you I've seen these expansion tank leaks so many times on this forum I;ve actually had the thought of having a spare tank on hand and I haven't had a leak yet..

Heres a simple google search..https://www.google.com/search?q=jagu...utf-8&oe=utf-8

 

The coolant expansion reservoirs typically hairline-crack at the hose nipples, but they have also been known to crack at the seams. If yours is the original, there's a high probability that it has cracked somewhere. These things rarely last more than five or six years....

 

Refer to JTIS, which is a free download on this forum for the correct procedure to replace the coolant reservoir.

This is also a good opportunity to replace the coolant with one meeting Jaguar specification.

 

I have tried to download the JTIS and keep running into problems. Is there a quick hint someone could give me regarding the procedure. I am at a point where I need to disconnect the lower hose, which seems to be hard without a special tool for the clamp...

 

To remove the coolant reservoir you must firstly remove the wiper arms and windscreen lower finisher together with the strut brace.

Once those items are out of the way, you can unbolt the reservoir and disconnect the hoses at the ends opposite the reservoir. It helps to have a tool designed for removing the constant tension clamps, which is available from sellers on the Internet.
For example: Mobea or Constant Tension Hose Clamp Plier with Extended Jaws SES860L Brand New | eBay

Installation of the reservoir is the reverse of its removal.

 

Thanks, that's what I needed to know!!

 

OK, thanks for the help NBCat, but now I have another issue. After changing out the reservoir my temp gage does not register? Did I miss something? IOs there something that needs to be re-set. Hoses are back how ther were...

Thanks

 

Did you bleed the system? There are two locations: one at the front of the inlet manifold above the thermostat housing and another for the heater core next to the reservoir.

Be careful when removing the cap on the thermostat tower as the plastic housing can crack. Remember to also only tighten the cap enough to seal, about 4 Nm, which should be listed on the cap itself.

 

No, I did not bleed the system. Is this to let the air out?

 

Yes. You'll need to do that. It is also wise to keep checking your coolant level each morning for the next few days before starting your engine. It is not unusual to have to top up the coolant for a few days before it is finally at the proper level....

 

Yes, to get air out of the system. It is best to undertake bleeding the cooling system when the vehicle has cooled down.

Refer to JTIS, or the Workshop Manual, for the correct procedure.

 

THat was it, works! Thanks very much for your help. If you're ever in Memphis let me know and I owe you a BBQ dinner. Thanks again

 

+1 on what Jon89 advises: check the coolant level at the reservoir each day prior to driving the vehicle to ensure all the air is out of the system.

Also, cycle the heater on and off several times to eliminate any remaining trapped air.

 

Check, will do. Already bled it 3 times. Seems to be working fine, I will check it in the morning as well. Thanks for all the help guys! I will say it was a pain to disconnect the hoses without the clamp tool (I just could not bring myself to spend $30+)...

 

I hear you loud and clear regarding spending your hard-earned money for a tool that you think may be used only once. But a good pair of hose-removal pliers is a necessity for all DIY Jaguar owners. After more than seven years of S-Type ownership and more than four years of XK8 ownership, I now own three various sizes and types of hose-removal pliers and have used all of them more than I care to admit....

Go to your local Harbor Freight and check to see if they stock any hose-removal pliers (some do, some don't). Be sure to take one of their ubiquitous 20%-off coupons with you. You may wind up with a decent set for less than ten bucks. And trust me, you will indeed need them again. And again....

 

Mark,


I've done this job 3 times on a 4.0.


1. Where are you seeing the telltale of a leak? If the tank is leaking, the coolant will travel through the cowl drain and puddle behind the front wheel.


2. You can forgo the clamp tool, but it is a pain. Some auto parts places will rent you one..DO IT.


3. There is a how to in the sticky notes here somewhere.


4. If you determine the tank is bad, buy the one with the longest warranty. Cost is up but you should do this.


5. You will need new cowl cover fasteners. The old ones won't work anymore.


6. while you have the cowl cover off, replace the cabin filter and clean out the drains on each side.


Pretty easy job and remember, that a lot of fluid willdrain while you work, so don't be alarmed if it takes a gallon or so to refill. If I remember correctly, you have to run at about 1500 rpm's to circulate to the heater core and push the air out.

 

Yes, got the job done without the tool (never again). Next time I'm off to Harbor Freight... Thanks again for the help guys.

 

The engineer who designed the tube connecting like this one does, should be banned from engineering.