Hehe...yeah Seth, well...not the Jeep, it's on long-term quiet-time...but they're not ALL in the garage! 2 are away at college but I still have maintenance privileges. Shoulda dropped ins. on the Merc a month or two ago, I'm probably donating it after I remove the BT radio...but may look into what I might get by parting it out. Also thinking I'll drop the 03 S down to liability-only like the X300 as it is the next-least valuable from a total-loss standpoint.
Insurance costs a bit more than the mortgage each month, but with 100 mi/day commute, Obama-fuel is 3X that!

 

10-4 that on insurance and fuel. Like you, I drive a 90 mile roundtrip. Round up some ethanol from those Texas corn fields.

 

Can the purge solenoid vac line be purchased as a kit or is it all individual parts? I brought it back to the shop that smoked the intake, and they say the line has a leak (didn't show me where) and that there is smoke coming from the rear of the intake.
I do not recall the o-rings being difficult to install, could I have pinched one?

Also, one more question: How is the brake booster line removed from the intake. I have always removed it from the booster?
Thanks as always.
Khris

 

The brake booster vacuum line at the intake is a quick connect, push in on the black outer ring and pull line back, kind of like an air compressor quick connect.

Everything is possible maybe not a pinched IMT O-ring but that quick connect (brake booster) had gotten messed up. The first time I tried to disconnect it, I messed the coupler up that made our transmission shift real funky. I wrapped some electrical tape around the fitting and that temporarily solved the tranny issue until I was able to get a new coupler.

There is the fuel pressure regulator back there as well (which is a vacuum line).

 

Well, I rec. my Vgate OBD scan in the mail today. Is there anyone that has advice on what to look for? I have not sprayed any carb cleaner nor propane while reading the raw values. I have looked at the raw values while the car is running, but I am unsure which one or two I need to pay attention too? I also set up an AFR gauge (air fuel ratio) it is steady at 14.36, except when throttle is applied. I got a reading as high as 18.6. This was just sitting in the driveway, playing with my new toy. This thing is really neat, I just hope it helps too.
Thanks in advance for any advice,
Khris

 

I found short and long term trim gauges......I think I know what to do at this point. Check short term trim while spraying carb cleaner or propane at the vac lines, etc.

Khris

 

Ok, you're on the way....

 

Also, what are the LTFTs? Look at idle & 2500rpm

 

Ok, while driving, I can get the short term trims to go from -21 to +25, but they stay around 3.6 on both banks at 40mph cruise. The long term trims are .08 on bank one, and 4.6 on bank 2.
I can get low readings momentarily on both banks by spraying carb cleaner on the tube coming off the bottom, front of the intake manifold (or plenum), right by the throttle body. This tube goes to, what I have been told is the vacuum solenoid. I am not sure what it actually is. There appear to be fuel lines running in and out of it, but they could be vacuum. Anyone have any clue as to what I am talking about?
Khris

 

When the codes come up maybe the freeze frame data will be useful.

What codes have you now? P1111?

 

po171, and po174....lean on both banks

 

It is called the "The evaporative emission canister purge valve transfer pipe". It appears to be leaking quite badly. And "only" cost $140 at the dealer

 

Replacing the torn pipe will solve the vaccume leak. That'll be a bold strategy?

 

OK...problem solved, finally. The purge valve pipe was actually fine. The leaks were in the front and the back at the purge valve and brake booster quick connects. Both, but more in the front than the rear, o-rings in the quick connects were hard and no longer sealing. The kit to fix is $19.20 each, so, at least on the 06, 3.0 S-type, I would replace these along with the IMT o-rings when the always popular P0171 and P0174 codes pop up.
Only took 2 months and 4 intake removals to finally figure it out.
Thanks to all that offered help, and I do love the OBDII bluetooth reader

Khris

 

Damn wish I would of known of this when I had the intake off.

 

I think that may well be useful information. I don't recall hearing of that kit before! If you have a part # please post it. (Probably not suitable for my car but there are many more 3.0s than STRs.)

 

Part number C2S15816 List $19.65, dealer charged me $11.65 each. You need 2 on an 06, 3.0 S-type. It comes with the pressed in brass bushing, which I did not use, an o-ring, and a black retaining clip, which is the part you press in to release the vac brake line and the purge valve line. As I said before, both o-rings had hardened and were leaking vacuum. It is a dealer stocked item, and is a common issue.

 

I have the same problem! I put a fuel system cleaner in and the check engine light goes away until I have to refuel. I have changed the fuel filter. I heard it could be a possible vacuum leak, so does the carbon cleaner trick work for trying to find this? Any ideas would be appreciated!

 

Start by reading codes and LTFTs (see my sig). Cheap OBD tool - elm327, about $10 - will do both.

 

That's great information! You followed it up with the part numbers too. It will be a real big help as I have not read about this problem before but am sure it will become more common as the cars get older.
.
.
.