Ok, so I am replacing the radiator in my STR. I got it out, the hard way through the top, but I would like to put it back the easy way. Hopefully the manual procedure is easier than the way I did it. Can someone here help me out with the manual procedure? I am new this month to Jags and only have W10 computers and have not been able to install yet (someone has apparently done it but has not shared the whole process yet).

Thanks in advance for any help!

BTW, I think she was due !

 

I would think you should be able to obtain the Workshop Manual even with W10; others will no doubt advise you soon.
As for radiator, the Workshop Manual only lists it as being removed from the top so since you've removed it you'd need to just obviously reverse what you've done. Removal/installation procedure is very straight forward but not a small job. Obviously fan removal first then radiator.
Main problem I had was losing transmission fluid in the process and the gearbox not shifting properly for obvious reasons. It was due for a transmission flush and filter change soon after so no big problem there. The manual does state to do a 'transmission fluid level check' after radiator installation which is well advised.
Also hoses behind radiator do tend to get moved in process so make sure they're not rubbing against each other when everything's back and make sure foam seals on sides and top are replaced or renewed.
Can't tell from your photo why you removed radiator?
Removal for STR is on page number 1,342 of Workshop Manual.

 

you did it the right way....on install it is nice to have a helper to hold the condenser and intercooler rad while you slip the radiator in because of the way they nest...also getting around the a/c lines....once in it gets real easy....the manual is really of no help for details

 

Here is a link to the jaguar workshop manual:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...M-Workshop.pdf

Mellow

 

Mellow thank you very much for the link!

Man getting it out was a bitch, biggest mistake I made was not taking the fan off before I had it loose, then it was impossible to get it off. That damn AC hose on the left side was right in the way of pulling it straight up and out,so it had to be angled out with the right side out first.

JYA, regarding why I am replacing. Car has high miles and had a leaking hose when I got it a week ago. Once I dug in to the hoses there were several bulging, I think they are all original. Once I decided to replace all the hoses and I pulled the radiator hose I could see the tell-tale yellowing of the radiator plastic on the tank inlet - in the Land Rover world (16 D2's under my belt) that is a sure sign the plastic is aging and will likely split in the near future so I decided to replace the radiator as well.

Checked all the idler and tensioners now that I have it apart, surprisingly they are all good. The PO told me the under supercharger hose has been changed so thankfully that is not an issue.

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

You might have the record for an STR to? 210K is a lot.
Nice fast Camaro too!
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Yeah, I know 210k is a lot. Lots of LR3 guys have those kind of miles on theirs and swear that motor is solid. I got it pretty cheap, so even if I have to put a motor in it I am ok. There is 03 STR totaled near me I am tempted to buy for the motor and trans but I have a yard full of hardware at the moment and I would need a divorce lawyer and I can't afford that.

 

I agree. The 4.2l SC and the 6 Speed ZF is a very solid drive train and I had zero problems with them on my 2005 STR. I sold it at 130K miles in perfect condition for peanuts. $3500.
Had other problems but much like what your seeing it was mainly cooling issues and man does that Inter-cooled engine have a lot of hoses! I think I counted 22+ hoses and replaced them all!

Just a heads up but the weak spot on that car is the hose under the SC. Has yours been changed? It generally does not strand you as it leaks and does not blow out. It was a very tough repair for this shade tree mechanic. But we have several very detailed threads about replacing it so it's very doable. It's only a $20 hose too.
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Thanks for the reply. Got the radiator out, has a date code of 2007 on it so obviously was changed early in the cars life, makes sense because several of the hoses had weird cuts on them. The car came out of NC and has zero service history showing on Carfax before 150k, so I assume it only went to the dealer and they did not share with carfax. I am going to drive down there in the car and see if they will give me the history with the car staring them in the face.

The PO told me the guy he bought it from took the supercharger off or changed it, he was not sure which but I can only assume it was for the hose. What an idiotic design, and that comes from a guy who has had 16 LR's. Why in the hell did they put that line under there instead of running it across the top of the engine. And to make one end inaccessible such that you can't reroute it. And why would anyone put another rubber hose in there instead of a hard line. Anyway, good to know they leak more than blow.

I am going to start with the reinstall this weekend.

Got the car for $1900 and drove it home. Rear spoiler is cracked, drivers window regulator broken, tires are not great but usable. Everything else seems to work. Figured the engine and trans were worth that alone. Brakes were done with new rotors and pads at 150k, that had to be a $1000 job.

 

i am tryingto remove the rad all so
i thought it would come out with the fan still attatched to the rad
looks like i will have to remove it
i cant see what is holding the air con unit on to the rad
3.0 auto

 

this was a STR thread , though some what the the same . yes you must remove the fan .
the A/C condenser rad is bolted to the front of the coolant rad half way up the front side .