Hello guys, I am not a Jaguar owner, but my sister is. She has had it for about 3 years now. Let me start out by saying that this forums rocks!.
She is having 2 issues with it. The first one is that the car doesn't idle, or accelerate correctly. This problem has been been going on for about 4 months now. We took it to an independent Jaguar shop. The guy told us that it may be a coil pack, but since there is no check engine light on, there is no way to pinpoint it. He also said that we have to wait for the engine to misfire 200 times to get a code . Does anyone know of a way to force the engine light to diagnose what the problem is?

And this just happened to day. I was driving her car, and I notice the ac isn't blowing cold anymore. So I look at the gauges, and holy smokes! The engine is at the hottest point. I get to a work station, and wait for the car to cool down. I proceed to add water, but after that I notice that the Fan does not kick in at all, even after I turn the ac on. So I proceed to drive home, and maybe 15 minutes after, it starts overheating again. I do the same, let it cool off, and then drive home. Maybe another 15 minutes. In all this time, the car did not overheat, I was keeping it under 2K rpms, and ac off though. Does anyone have a diagram for the fuses? Since I was driving it, I have to fix it now

Any input would be greatly appreciated. By the way, I am not a newb at forums, and I did search. I do apologize if this has been covered before.

 

What year and motor???? This would help alot. Have you tried pulling any codes just because the check engine light is not on doesnt mean there arent codes stored.

 

Sorry, It's a 2001 3.0 with 110k. I never knew that you could pull codes without a check engine light on!

 

If the first problem has been occuring for 4 months and no light came on its doubtful that its a misfire which would mean coils. I would look for post on the 5R55N transmission. See if some of the symptoms from people posting about that is the cause of the acceleration problem. I know there are problems with some of the springs or something in the valve body causing problems. That may fix that problem. I dont have that trans so I'm not for sure but I know there are problems with it so you should be able to find stuff with a search on that.
As for the cooling. First you need to find out if you are loosing any and where from. If you said you pulled over and added water that means its getting lost somewhere. That is most likely going to be your problem there. Once you fix where its leaking then I would look into the fan whether its going on or off. Some places to look would be the DCCV which is common and the overflow tank. Since its at home I would jack it up some and fill the coolant and just let it idle while you look for the leak and as soon as you see it turn the car off then fix it. I'm sure more 3.0 guys will chime in with other things to look for as these are just common trends I see on the board.

 

Hey,
You should take a look at FAQs , these will be a good stuffs for you

 

Thanks for the tips guys, I tried looking through the FAQs but I didn't find anything relevant, unless I didn't look close enough lol.
Vance580- It's strange because a leak was the first thing I looked for, even now as I type this, I checked outside for leaks, but nothing. I'll take a look tomorrow, and see what's going on. I can already tell these cars are hard to work on. I have Lexus GS(had since I just totaled it) which I used to do DIY maintenance on it, but everything was pretty straight forward. I'm just glad this forums exists!

 

EN_VY first off you need to have the codes read. Go to Auto Zone, PEP Boys etc...they will read the codes for free.

With the MY stated there are a number of things that could be causing the roughness.

A misfire coil pack would should up immediately! My shade tree idea is there is a rubber elbow located under the intake manifolds that has a crack in it. You cannot see it from above. The intake manifolds will have to be removed.

look here:2000 3.0 S-Type Vacuum Leak

Thank you Gus!!

On the over heating lets see what you find under the car today. Did you happen to purge (bleed) the cooling system?

 

Ok, so there was no leak on the car. I didn't loose any coolant either. I was trying to download a manual, but it doesn't work on Mac OS.
As far as that rubber elbow, I will make sure to check that out, this car shaking is getting ridiculous! I'll try and get to read codes tomorrow. I woke up late today, and it is HOT here in Texas, so I didn't want to risk being stranded again.
Thanks Guys

 

You need to follow the new member instructions. They're not optional.

 

Must not be that urgent anymore

 

Envy, get those codes. In the meantime likely causes of shaking are: vaccume leak of intake manifold, gaskets worn on intake manifold runner control, burnt valves, blown head gasket. As joys jag suggests look under the intake manifold for a common leaking intake manifold vaccume hose. Coil packs are prone to go on these cars too. Install a fresh fuel filter, check that the air filter box is closed (top has its slots in lower case and clipped down) for correct fuel metering and maintain vaccum) and has a clean air filter.

 

Haha, I didn't get enough sleep, and by 10 a.m, the temperatures are HIGH!

Hopefully I will get a chance to check that out this coming Sunday. For now, the overheating issue is what worries me, but it's going to a shop tomorrow? Does anyone have a Manual in PDF format? I would highly appreciate it. I see that this forum keeps active, how nice!

I am in the market for a new car, since my Lexus is totaled. Maybe, just maybe I'll get an S-type R

 

Forgot to mention sticking closed/open thermostat.

 

Read more threads and FAQs and you'll find the PDFs but first you gotta comply with the new member stuff you appear to have overlooked.

 

Ok guys, so my sister and I dropped it off to a shop today. She just called me letting me know that it was the fan, and that it would run her 400.00 used, + labor(which is roughly about 80.00 p/h) Does this sound correct? I was looking online, and if it is the fan, It can be bought for $200.00. Also, apparently the check engine light was unplugged, and he was able to read the codes without it( You guys know your stuff) The idling is caused by the coil packs.
Is there a good Samaritan who can provide me with a link to a pdf format manual? If not, Ill look again.

 

You couldn't use a link until you follow the new member rules. If in a hurry buy JTIS from ebay.