No crank. Ign Switch and Starter Relay voltage test results.
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,759
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From: Hazlet Township, NJ
In reading this thread briefly - I would begin looking at the possibility of a fuel delivery problem. (fuel pump is primary suspect, jet pump, then fuel filter, inertia switch and fuel pump relay/fuses in that order) When you turn the key to start - what is your fuel pressure reading?
Should be at least 40 psi or higher.
Did you ensure the inertia switch is depressed? This would prevent the car from starting as well.
I only bring this issue to light as when these cars sit for periods of time - the fuel pumps eventually seize up - just my $0.02
I would leave the PCM alone...
What is the overall condition of the battery? Did it sit there for 2 years as well?
Should be at least 40 psi or higher.
Did you ensure the inertia switch is depressed? This would prevent the car from starting as well.
I only bring this issue to light as when these cars sit for periods of time - the fuel pumps eventually seize up - just my $0.02
I would leave the PCM alone...
What is the overall condition of the battery? Did it sit there for 2 years as well?
Last edited by abonano; Dec 1, 2013 at 02:18 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Clearwater FL, USA
Thanks for the follow up guys and although it has been awhile since this tread was opened, I apologize for not concluding.
I did get the starter to crank by grounding the starter relay, and after chasing all of the other options presented here, I decided to try to ground the coil relay and presto, fired right up! I was so happy but still confused as to why this would work.
After about eight times of starting correctly (with the starter and coil relay grounded), poof, no start but cranking again. Dismay....
I had talked to other mechanics both around town and through the internet and got no definitive answers and someone offered me a cash offer for $1k less than I originally paid for the car, as is, and reluctantly accepted the offer. I was getting ready to move and didn't want to drop the $2k that jag was estimating to repair it (even without looking at it which made me skeptical that they would throw a figure out there like that without even running a scan on the Jag). I didn't trust the dealer mechanics at my local shop to begin with because when I went to the parts department to get two replacement diodes, they said that I would need to replace the entire fuse box to get the diodes at a cost of $800. The diodes were not the problem as I tested them with a multimeter and they tested good and also found two in a junkyard and replaced them with no positive results.
Although it has been mentioned that the PCM never goes out and it was not likely that this was the problem, I still believe that it was failing. If there was some mention as to where to look for the grounds that the PCM relies on, I might have check that location but the offer came and I threw in my hat.
I really regret selling it now and it was worth it in the long run, at least to me to throw $3k (including the fuse box, which the dealer insisted upon replacing before continuing troubleshooting further) at the Jag dealer to get it running as I really loved that car and loved the uniqueness of the manual trans, so fun to drive! I know that the cost that I would of paid for the repairs plus the original cost would of set what I had into it well over Blue Book, when you really love your car, it is like your child, you'll do anything to make it feel better. I don't have contact with the person that bought it and I don't know if it was ever fixed so I am sorry to say that I can't marked this as solved. The dealer was really pushing me to trade her in on a new F-Type, maybe that is why they were driving up the cost of the repairs. Shady...
I considered getting a S-Type R and had started to look for one, but they are hard to find and truthfully, a little reserved about getting another Jag due to the outrageous prices that the dealer wants for repairs and the lack of mechanics that want to work on them outside of the dealer.
I am now in the market for a Cadillac CTS-V or an XLR-V. I really like the style of the XLR-V although they quit making them in 2009 and I would probably be getting right back into a car that if repairs are needed, I would have to go only to the dealer and pay through the nose for the overhead that dealer mechanics charge.
Thank you all so much for your help on this matter, I hope that this thread can help others get some ideas if they are experiencing the same problems.
Take care,
-James
I did get the starter to crank by grounding the starter relay, and after chasing all of the other options presented here, I decided to try to ground the coil relay and presto, fired right up! I was so happy but still confused as to why this would work.
After about eight times of starting correctly (with the starter and coil relay grounded), poof, no start but cranking again. Dismay....
I had talked to other mechanics both around town and through the internet and got no definitive answers and someone offered me a cash offer for $1k less than I originally paid for the car, as is, and reluctantly accepted the offer. I was getting ready to move and didn't want to drop the $2k that jag was estimating to repair it (even without looking at it which made me skeptical that they would throw a figure out there like that without even running a scan on the Jag). I didn't trust the dealer mechanics at my local shop to begin with because when I went to the parts department to get two replacement diodes, they said that I would need to replace the entire fuse box to get the diodes at a cost of $800. The diodes were not the problem as I tested them with a multimeter and they tested good and also found two in a junkyard and replaced them with no positive results.
Although it has been mentioned that the PCM never goes out and it was not likely that this was the problem, I still believe that it was failing. If there was some mention as to where to look for the grounds that the PCM relies on, I might have check that location but the offer came and I threw in my hat.
I really regret selling it now and it was worth it in the long run, at least to me to throw $3k (including the fuse box, which the dealer insisted upon replacing before continuing troubleshooting further) at the Jag dealer to get it running as I really loved that car and loved the uniqueness of the manual trans, so fun to drive! I know that the cost that I would of paid for the repairs plus the original cost would of set what I had into it well over Blue Book, when you really love your car, it is like your child, you'll do anything to make it feel better. I don't have contact with the person that bought it and I don't know if it was ever fixed so I am sorry to say that I can't marked this as solved. The dealer was really pushing me to trade her in on a new F-Type, maybe that is why they were driving up the cost of the repairs. Shady...
I considered getting a S-Type R and had started to look for one, but they are hard to find and truthfully, a little reserved about getting another Jag due to the outrageous prices that the dealer wants for repairs and the lack of mechanics that want to work on them outside of the dealer.
I am now in the market for a Cadillac CTS-V or an XLR-V. I really like the style of the XLR-V although they quit making them in 2009 and I would probably be getting right back into a car that if repairs are needed, I would have to go only to the dealer and pay through the nose for the overhead that dealer mechanics charge.
Thank you all so much for your help on this matter, I hope that this thread can help others get some ideas if they are experiencing the same problems.
Take care,
-James
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