No Heat DCCV and control head
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No Heat DCCV and control head
After having the engine replaced in my 2000 Jaguar s-type it developed a problem with no heat whatsoever. I took it to the dealer and they informed me that it's the valve, but that the valve has also blown out the control head and that the repair would cost $2700.
After replacing the engine, twice I might add, due to the first junkyard engine being bad, then the flexjoints on the driveshaft. etc etc. I'm totally fed up with the car, and have more money in it than it's possibly worth. Is there a way I can go old-school on this thing and just bypass the DCCV and put a manual valve of some sort in the lines to get us thru this winter? The wife loves her car, but honestly I should have junked it when the engine siezed.
After replacing the engine, twice I might add, due to the first junkyard engine being bad, then the flexjoints on the driveshaft. etc etc. I'm totally fed up with the car, and have more money in it than it's possibly worth. Is there a way I can go old-school on this thing and just bypass the DCCV and put a manual valve of some sort in the lines to get us thru this winter? The wife loves her car, but honestly I should have junked it when the engine siezed.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Home
Sorry to hear all your troubles!! Unfortunately you got just about the worst year possible for the S Type. No way around the DCCV. I do question that the DCCV can blow the head unit out? I know for a fact it does NOT on the Lincoln LS but the cars do use much different electronics. I would change the valve first and see if the heat situation improves. The DCCV is MUCH cheaper than a new control head. Which do you have? Navigation or not? The navigation version is very expensive. Also look on EBay for a used control module. I have seen several of the non-navigation versions for pretty cheap prices.
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 46
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From: Carmel, IN
I don't know for sure, but there are definitely some posts in the archives that state that a faulty DCCV can cause an Air Con Module to fail.
In theory, there's no reason why you couldn't bypass the DCCV. The tricky part might be incorporating a splitter so that you could still flow coolant to both heater core pipes... plus you'd probably want a manual valve in-line so that you could close it off in the summer when you didn't want heat. I've seen at least one post on another forum (might've been Jag Lovers) where someone's mechanic did this. My 54 Jag has a manual heater valve switch under the bonnet that does the very same thing, when you want heat you need to open the valve, when you don't want it, you need to close it off.
In theory, there's no reason why you couldn't bypass the DCCV. The tricky part might be incorporating a splitter so that you could still flow coolant to both heater core pipes... plus you'd probably want a manual valve in-line so that you could close it off in the summer when you didn't want heat. I've seen at least one post on another forum (might've been Jag Lovers) where someone's mechanic did this. My 54 Jag has a manual heater valve switch under the bonnet that does the very same thing, when you want heat you need to open the valve, when you don't want it, you need to close it off.
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