No power at all at the fuse. I tracked down the person that originally owned it and was told he took it to the dealership and was told it needed an Ecu and throttle relay. But there was a lot more to the story.

 

The dealer was likely wrong. Many are utterly hopeless at diagnosis so just parts swap. Costly and wrong.

If you can get it back to un-messed-with and then diagnose that'll be better. Do not mess with TP1/TP2 or it'll just get worse and worse.

 

+1 on that.


Could you please enlighten me on this one? Isn't the TPS a simple plug and play piece? Does it even have an adjustment? Working from memory, but I thought it had a fixed index for installation and was more or less Murphy-proof. It's already been changed once. Still waiting to hear if the fault changed with the new sensor.

From the tidbits I've gathered in this thread, OP now has 3 TPS sensors at his disposal for comparison. #1 is the new one just installed. #2 is the one just removed. #3 is the good one on his other car, which presumably runs okay. I agree not to swap any more parts around, but I'd still suggest taking resistance readings from all three. I'd also suggest taking the resistance readings from the ECM connector, to account for any potential wiring problems such as a loose connector at the TPS.

 

All the tps sensors that were used with the same result. No change in the faults and p0121 code. I checked all the wiring per the jtis in regards to the p0121 Dtc code and all was good. All resistances are good and voltage is good.

 

Um, you do realize there's no charge per word here, right? What's the rest of the story?

Still waiting to hear back if you've tried any of the other troubleshooting steps that have been suggested. Specifically, I'd like to know how the three TPS sensors compare when you measure their resistance at various settings.

I can't stress strongly enough that there is no guarantee the new TPS sensor is good. Rare, but it happens. I just went through some problems with 2 bad new parts on my '02. Talk about a headscratcher.

It seems you've reached the point where normal troubleshooting isn't working completely. It's probably time to start at square one and recheck everything. I'm pretty much out of ideas. I've suggested some very specific resistance checks but haven't head back if you've tried them. Your call if you'd rather try something else, but that's all I've got.

JagV8 has said not to mess with the TPS sensor, but we are currently waiting to hear back with more details. I trust his judgement, but am like that annoying kid who wants to know why. I assume (Danger! Danger!) it's still okay to remove the plug and take some resistance readings.

 

Okay, one more question. Did you check the resistance from the ECM connector? No JTIS access here, so am not sure if that is ever suggested.

Keep in mind a "good" resistance reading on a wire does not mean the wire is actually good. You could have a situation of multiple broken strands and only one is still intact. That is enough to flow the tiny current used by an ohmmeter and so it looks good. In actual usage, that single strand restricts the flow so you get a fault, even though it tests "good". So just be aware of that gotcha with electrical troubleshooting. That's why I recommended an analog meter for checking resistance values such as that. It draws a little more current and will show faults that look "good" with a digital meter.

 

Did you ever fix it ?

 

Did you ever find out the cause ?I’m having the same problem

 

Has this issue ever been resolved?