SWMBO came home recently complaining she had a light on the dash she thought looked like a battery. Turned out it was the MIL and a check showed codes P0300,0301,0303,0305 & 1316.
The car was running fine at this point so I cleared the codes to see what would show up, a couple of days later the light was back along with very rough running and almost impossible to idle.
A quick check revealed the problem:-


The connecter for the left side PCV pipe to t throttle body. Not sure why it was affecting only one bank though?
The part was $5.15 from the dealer, however the car is at 98K so a good time for plugs, filters, coils and all that good stuff.

I got all the parts ordered up (thanks to Rick for a link to Alldayparts good prices and based on the other side of town so quick shipping, Rockauto filled in the gaps.

The British Vintage Voyage to the Tuscon area took up the weekend so it was Monday before it was all buttoned up, fired her up and bang, the light was back on with a raft of codes most irrelevant as I had to switch the ignition on to move the car with the sensors disconnected, the important one was P1549 (IMT valve 1 bottom circuit malfunction).

When putting the manifold on I'd pulled the (very short) wires out of the connector, so off with the manifold again!
A bit of googling showed that Ford make connetor pigtail kits part No WPT-545 for these at a heady $42.47 .

The new part was spliced in and everything bundled back to together again and all seems good now.

I recall we had some discussion some time ago about the IMT codes and a difference between JTIS and Alldata on which was the upper and lower fault codes I can confirm 100% that P1549 is the Lower valve code.

I have to say hats off to the guys who have done the short route O ring change, that's a tight squeeze, do you really save much time?

 

Norri,

I did the short-route IMT O-ring job back in March 2010. I do believe it saves considerable time, particularly when you have a small-handed neighbor available. My paws were far too big for the space so I had him pull the lower IMT out for me and then reset it once the new O-ring was installed around it. If I had to do the job without the help of his small hands, I might still be out there in the driveway cursing and fighting those IMTs today. Hope I never have to do it again because he has since moved to Florida....

Hope your S-Type is fixed and stays fixed. I'm surprised you got to 98,000 miles before having to change the factory IMT O-rings....

 

I didn't change the rings Jon, the dealer changed them at ~47K when the torque convertor was done, still dry as a bone. They changed the sump gasket at the same time, so two bullets dodged.

 

WTG Norri, glad to see that you have things sorted.

Glad to know alldayparts worked out as well. As I had mentioned I had never dealt with them but their prices are right, so I guess I will start.

Now to address the IMT long route verse short route since I have done them both ways. You do save a little bit of time going the short route, especially when one is removing the plenum (upper intake) for the first time.
**Note** to anyone going about the short route, it is not necessary to remove the IMT Tuning Valves all the way out of the plenum, loosen the 2 bolts enough to back the valve out enough to cut away old O-ring and slip new O-ring on from the backside of valve (electrical side). This is where you will save time especially not trying to remove the lower valve completely out.

 

No complaints with Alldayparts Rick, I didn't mention there some oil leaking into the plug wells so I changed the cam cover gaskets, all the sites I checked listed Felpro FEL-VS 50610 R for the valve covers, stupidly I believed them, this does not fit it s for the earlier cars, the correct one was FEL-VS 50612 R listed for 2004 on.
I called Alldayparts when I figured it out and they mailed me a return label immediately with no quibbling.