Hello i have a 1999 jaguar s type 3.0v6 petrol auto.

I have had it around 8 months and its been fine

when i bought the car the engine failsafe mode come on 2-3 times in 20 mins i forght as its been stud a sensor might be damp.

I carryed on driving for 2.5 hours and never come on again ran fine. In the 8 months of having it i saw it come on 2-3 times only when it was wet mostly but not often at all.

In the last month its comming on 2-3 times a day there is no feeling its on apart from the limet of power

I have noticed it comes on mostly around corners and going and setting off around hills. i have also find out that when it does come on can be when i try slightly speeding up when its gone into 5th at about 45mph but does not always do this eather.

I have noticed also that when it does come on if i keep my throttle in the same place it will stay on all the time and as soon as i move throttle 2-3 secounds later its gone. I tryed setting the cruse control at the speed its on and it seemed to go straght off.

I have cleaned throttle body was not bad anyway iv replaced the throttle position sensor also cleaned the air flow sensor air filter ect.

I have a machine that plugs into my laptop for car ecu codes and faults and it does not log any codes even done this while the failsafe mode has been on while driving.

Car seems to drive and run fine apart from this message.

I have never got it to come on while ticking over or reving it in N.

All im thinking now is throttle body faulty or throttle itself as it does make a creaking noise when pushing it down. Is this a sign its warn.

Can someone please give me any infomation as to what to try next should i replace the trottle? could it be something totally different? how do i get some fault codes?

I have took the throttle off a and blown it out with a compressor that seemed to fix it for about 1 day but i cannot be sure that was why it went away for a day.

Thanks in advance

 

WHERE are you?

In the US many autostores will read the codes for you, elsewhere in the world you'll probably be looking for a dealer, if you plan on keeping the car a while, it can be cheaper in the long run to buy your own OBD reader.

 

Thank you for the info.

I am in the uk and i have today bought a odb reader that connects to my laptop. It works fine reads loads of sensors and looks for fault codes.

I have tryed reading fault codes with this and another code reader and there is non i have also read it with the car driving with it on and still no code.

Been out tonight had the light come on kept throttle dead still stays on turned cruse on went off put throttle to same speed and took cruse off came back.

Any help needed

Thanks

 

If you cant pull codes with it on, you have jaguar specific codes stored and wont be able to read with generic obd2 scanner. Go to a dealer for diag

 

I forght it might be something like that. Do you have any sort of idea of a cost for just scanning the car. Can jaguar only do it will no other ecu scanners do this job.

Thank you

 

The Jaguar dealer scanner is much more comprehensive, I'd say expect around 1/2hr labour charge, ring at least two local dealers and ask for a price.

 

Ok will do that tomorrow everything i see says it will be throttle related is this true.

 

I am going to check with my dealer

 

I wish to purchase an OBD reader, but am having problems finding one that I am confident will read codes and reset engine light for my 2003 S-Type 4.2L. If I may ask, which OBD readers will work and would you recommend any?

 

To cover most Jag codes you need something as good or better than AutoEnginuity with the jag enhancement option. To get the ones only from the PCM a cheap scanner will do but that's just one module out of over 10.

 

Here's our current list of compatible OBD readers - https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=33347

 

As i have a usb odb 2 scanner is it possible i could download the software to undertand my jaguar s type more

 

I don't think so, it's probably doing everything these type of scanners can. The AutoEnginuity with the Jag extras is an advanced bit of kit, but still far short of the Jaguar IDS system.

 

Thanks very much for your advice.

Best regards

 

Thanks everyone for the help. I emailed jaguar near me for a price to read my car and they can not even be bothered to reply. From looking around i have seen i can expect around 70-90 bill for this service around where i am.

In the last week the problem has got worse and now iv found its one exact position on the throttle and its where the throttle peddal makes a creaking noise thats also got worse. i had 2 choices iv been told it will be throttle related throttle position sensor(replaced) throttle body or pedal itself

second hand pedal ebay £50.00 second hand throttle body ebay £70.00 or take it for scan at 70-90 and find out its most likey one of them 2 anyway

as i can find an exact point on my pedal that it now comes on everytime yet never will come on with the cruse even when setting it at the point where the failsafe comes on i keep my foot still engine failsafe cruse on light goes off turn cruse back off light comes straght back on move the trottle slightly same thing happens on and off. so i have chosen to buy the throttle and take pot luck that thats the problem.

I will let everyone know the outcome when it arrives witch should be this week.

If this does not fix it i will buy the throttle body

If nether is the problem i will sell my parts back on ebay at a buy it now as thats what i do for a living anyway and get i scanned.

Any views/tips welcome

 

From my electronics experience, sensors are far more likely to cause trouble than microprocessors, ESPECIALLY a sensor that's in constant motion. That throttle pedal will most likely be to the "fly by wire" principle, ie., some kind of potentiometer is controlled by the pedal, to pass a variable voltage to the processor unit which meters the fuel to the injectors. There are of course other ways than a pot. to achieve the same ends. If it is a pot. (likely) it may well have a carbon track you can get at. If it's easy to get the unit out, examine the track with a strong magnifying glass, looking for any cracks or worn bits in the track.
If you find any, a temporary repair can be made with very softest pencil you can get, laying down some new graphite on the worn bits/crack. Some pots have a wirewound track which is a bit more robust than a carbon. If you can't find any cracks/worn bits, clean the track by spraying with a proprietory switchcleaner from an electronics shop. Any sliding contacts will need a little suitable grease. At least this will establish if that's where the problem is, and cost nothing.
Another way of passing a variable voltage is with magneto-diodes, but that's unlikely to be a trouble unless damaged. (A magneto diode is one where the conduction is influenced by passing a small magnet near it.)
Leedsman.

 

I today got my new pedal fitted it in 5 mins and its now working fine no error messages and the pedal feels alot smoother than my old one that was also creaking.

Thank you everyone for your help.

Would also like to mention that the day before i decided to take another look at my air con leaking. The fin little silver pipe was leaking on the drivers side under the 3 larger air con pipes.

As the new pipe is £50 plus second hand and its hard to fit i decided to try fix the old pipe.

Metal gule was fine but just cracked when running the car and leaked out again.

so i then tryed cutting the pipe at 2 ends where i could get to with a saw blade attached to a file with tape and slowly cutting it by hand (only took 5-10 mins for both parts the bottom end i removed the joining part for easyer access just 1 bolt on the pipe join and 1 on the bracket holding it to the side.

I then went and got some 10mm fuel pipe from moter save £5.50 with 2 jubilee clips.

I then filed the edges i had cut on the metal pipe on the car to get rid of any sharp enges and pushed the rubber pipe onto each end of the metal pipes.

Got the clips real tight and used the air compressor, an eazy air con refill hose from halfords and an air compressor with a blower end (just hold it to the air con hose end where the can goes on and it will fill up with air fine from the low pressure port underneath on the compressor with a black cap.

You may wonder why i used just air to fill it i know it will not work but i did it to test for leaks rather than wasting tins of gas at £20 a time.

You may need to unclip the wires from the compressor and put a 12v battery to the wires to engage the clutch manually before filling with air con gas as the car has a safty cut off switch and will not fill properly without the compressor engaged.

When the pressure stayed the same with no leaks i took the air out by pressing the air con fill port with a screw driver till it was empty and refilled with a halfords tin of eazy refill gas.

Air con is now working going nice and cold but i do feel it could do with more gas and would like anyone to tell me how much gas the car should have from empty.

My air con also had a tin of air con oil to keep the compressor in good condition.

I hear this metal pipe leaks on alot of these cars and just wanted to tell people an easy cheap fix for it.


Any help on how much gas the car should have will be a real help.

Sorry for spelling/grammer no good at it just trying to help people as they have me.

Thank you

 

I'm glad you're sorted there, and it turned out to be one of the cheaper fixes. I like your a/c fix, but I'm not sure how long it's gonna last, I don't enough about these things but I suspect the rubber fuel pipe might suffer from the a/c gas and the pressures involved.

 

It's a terrible "fix". Anyone else reading this - don't do it!! See the comments on the thread "Air con pipe s type fixed metal pipe easy fix" here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=35577

 

Agree....Don't just cut and patch high pressure lines! Always replace them with the proper replacement!:ico n_doh: