I have a 2000 S-Type Jag and the passenger, right rear, and left rear windows do not work when using the direct door control.
However, all windows work using the driver door control.
Any Suggestions or maybe it is a known issue?

 

window lock switch bad in drivers door master switch?

 

 

The override switch has been tried several time so it is not known as good or bad.
However, the override switch is only suppose to effect the rear left and right windows not the passenger window so I suspect something other than that at this point.
According to the electrical manual the rear electronic control module CA102-5 provides a B+ signal to a junction cas17 that branches to all three switches.
As far as I can see it appears this is the only common point for all three windows (Passenger, Right rear, and Left Rear)
The passenger switch uses that B+ line to direct it to the General Electronic control module CA24-25 For Raise and CA24-10 For Lower
The right rear switch uses that B+ line to direct it to the rear electronic control module CA101-7 For Raise and CA101-7 For Lower
The left rear switch uses that B+ line to direct it to the rear electronic control module CA103-24 For Raise and CA103-22 For Lower

Because the use of the Driver side control works all windows normally and the passenger window motor operates by the General electronic control module and the rear window motors operate from the rear electronic control module I find it hard to believe that 2 modules would both not work only in the control of the manual window switches if it was a actual module failure.

So Again I come back to the common point of CA102-5 which is a B+ output that feeds all the manual switch for Passenger, left rear, and right rear.

If the B+ is on that output pin then obviously it is a short on the common feed line anywhere before any of the switches or a disconnected line somewhere before the CAS17 split connection which is just go find it.
My Concern is that I start ripping things apart looking for a hardware wire issue and then find that the CA102-5 pin is not providing the expected B+ right out of the Rear electronic control module
If it is the B+ is totally missing from the CA102-5 then I have ripped things apart and would not know the next step to do.
Is there a way to reset the rear electronic control module to a default factory setting to see if the B+ returns to CA102-5 pin?
Is there a known way for the rear electronic control module to remove the B+ from CA102-5 pin and I just do not know how to reset that 1 pin?

I would like any suggestions that may allow me to get things working again, if possible, before I start ripping things apart.

Thanks All

 

Sounds like you have done your homework. I agree the fault is most likely in that circuit via splice CAS17.

How best to test it? It all depends which connector has the best access. If you can back pin the connector at the RECM, check for voltage at CA102-5. Another possibility is to back pin PD4-5, which is somewhere between the front passenger window switch and the GECM. The location is listed as "Behind Door Trim Panel", which is kind of vague. Is that the front passenger door? It doesn't really specify.

Another thought is one of the three individual switches has failed to the up or down position. I wonder if the control system is smart enough to take such a failed circuit out of the equation. Because of how the three switches are wired in parallel, this could conceivably take them all out. I dunno, just thinking out loud. Do all three switches feel normal? Perhaps you could unplug them one at a time and see if the other two come back to life.

Also, try playing with the doors open or closed. If a wire were to break, the most likely place is at the hinge pivot area. If you rarely use the back doors, then the most likely place is going to be the front passenger door. Maybe you'll get lucky and the switches all return to normal with one of the doors open. If so, then you'd know the fault is isolated to that one.

 

I have the same problem. As I remember the diagrams, the power for the three slave windows comes from the master switch. In a previous thread, a member peeled back the tape on the wires from the body to the door and found the damaged wire there. I haven't delved into it yet but measuring power from the wire on the master switch seems to be where to start. Wiring on these cars is not an easy diagnosis.

 

I had this same problem. The rear electronic control module is behind and attached to a metal plate in the right side of trunk. I unplugged the wire harness CA102 and no voltage was coming out of pin 5 on the module (see image 1) bad module. Keep in mind the sunroof might still work like mine did. While your in the trunk check for continuity between pin 5 point A on the harness and any of the window switches center pin in the harness point B for broken wire. This would require taking one or all of the door panels off to get to the switches’ wire harness. I just happen to do this because I was changing out the regulators in both rear doors.