Hello everyone and happy new year
once again
Having problems with air conditioning on the 2004 4.2 N/A
Only blowing hot air
yet no codes
I have replaced heater control module one where radio is
I know these can be come faulty but not x5
Heater control valve from jaguar nz $700.00 nzd
air conditioning pump from jaguar nz $1300 nzd
New air conditioning radiator and radiator
So now thinking of doing a swap for the navigation type set up
there is a company in New Zealand who do the disk for $50
How easy is it to swap over
Below is a picture of what I have
And what I would like to install
Thanking you
Darrol

 

It may well be that your DCCV has failed; it is supposed to default to full heat when this happens...

The conversion that you envision is a major task, BTW.

 

Can't help with the nav screen, but one word of caution. I'd suggest getting the AC sorted before doing the screen swap. If you were to unknowingly introduce a new fault (bad control module, for example), you'd have a troubleshooting nightmare with two (or more) active faults. If you get the current configuration working, and then it quits with the screen swap, at least you'd know where to look.

Re: The AC blowing hot air. How hot? Same as ambient or even hotter? Big difference in how to troubleshoot, so please let us know. Sounds like you've changed a LOT of parts. Has the system worked satisfactorily in recent history? I'd recommend working through the troubleshooting guide from square one. Despite all the recent work, don't assume (Danger! Danger!) a part is good simply because it is new:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/

 

Darrol,

I got your PM with the fault codes. Probably best to post them here for all to see, as others may have some good ideas.

For now, don't worry about B1262 for the defrost door actuator. Even if the actuator completely failed, leaving the door stuck in one position, this would have zero effect on the temperature output. The air might be exiting from the wrong outlet, such as the defrost instead of the vents on the face of the dash, but the temperature would still be the same.

Likewise for B2426 - solar sensor. That function is only for fine tuning the output side to side when in auto mode. IIRC, the overall output (from both sides) gets fudged slightly to compensate for the feel of sunlight on your body. Either way, that's only a minor change and only in auto mode. Per the troubleshooting guide, you can use manual mode to bypass this function to help figure out the root cause for the lack of cooling. It's not going to be the solar sensor.

Not trying to pick on you, but you never answered the question about the duct temperature relative to ambient air. Please let us know.

 

hello sorry for the late reply
Last time that I can remember air conditioning working
or heating working properly was back in 2020

I ended up giving up on vehicle for a while
But have now decided to have another look at it
Especially now that once been for drive and turn vehicle off windscreen starts to mist up badly
so now thinking I could have a bad Evaporator
I also decided to pull out the control module and never noticed it before but has different part number and says X204
and I think it could be from a Diesel s type
As one fault always says Auxiliary motor failed to start
but were told just to i Ignore it

Yet my original has x202
Have attached some pictures


Thanking you Darrol

 

Hello Darrol;
If upgrading the radio I hope you have a non-navigation car? It was not clear from your post. If so those they are not too difficult to upgrade. But if you have navigation that is a whole nother ball game and good luck! I don't know if anyone has replaced that but I have seen stuff like JagDroid? This keeps the factory screen and allows more more things to be displayed.
JagDroid Android Upgrade
Take a look and I think it's very well done to. Do read the limitations to make sure that won't be a problem for you

The windshield misting points to a bad heater core NOT the evaporator. Is the car using any coolant? Can you pressure test the coolant system in case there is a leak?

If the AC is not working can you get a set of gauges on it and post back the hi and low side pressures?
Does the compressor rotate when the AC is turned on?

You mention the DCCV price but again I am not clear if you have swapped it out yet? If the DCCV is left unrepaired it can and will take out the CCM/RCCM modules as well. So then you put in a new DCCV but you still don't have it working right. These modules can be repaired and even upgraded as the module had severe design problems and had no over current protection from the factory. The bad solenoids in the DCCV start drawing excessive current when they go bad and then that current burns out the module.

Also I am not sure what module you show above? Which one is it?
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.
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Darrol,

I see two basic routes you can take:

1) Do some basic diagnosis steps, as found in the troubleshooting guide. Report back with DETAILED responses, such as ambient versus duct temperatures (Hint! Hint!). Is the compressor clutch engaging? Does the DCCV shut off hot coolant to the heater core as commanded? Lots more steps to cover in the guide.

I have no idea about the module effectively. Has it ever worked on your car? If not, it could be part (or all) of the problem but run some system tests to be sure.

2) Run around like a chicken with its head cut off, in search of the most difficult or expensive parts to change.

I prefer the first option. Your choice.