Found this company for Exhaust. I'll be ordering one at weeks end.

BDM Cat Back with X-pipe Jag S Type R 02-09 :: Jaguar :: BilletDesign Motorsports

 

Been running to and fro NY from MD. Lost my Grandmother in September and since have been trying had to help my parents adjust (She Lived with them). When I go to NY now, I don't go to my home, but it seems they like the idea of my moving into my Grandmothers old room.

Working hard also, but everything is really Good Norri. I'm hopeful we can all have some kind of Get together this summer.

 

$1218 shipped for a catback...Too rich for my blood...

 

Hey Doc, sorry to hear about your granny. I had a question about that link you put up with a pic of the car up on the lift. Right after the X pipe heading towards the exhaust are those two pipes the resonators? Stock or with the kit? I'm looking for a pair of good resonators to add to my system. The originals were taken off by the PO. I have the hi flow cats, x pipe, magna flow exhausts, but looking to get a little more back pressure going. I have too much free flow going on.

Thanks.

 

Sorry to hear that David, did you see the Dc meet up thread?
That's right in your backyard.

 

What's the maximum length for a muffler to fit in the rear? The Borlas have a 14" case with plenty more room for more muff. Ordered a pair of Dynomax Super Turbos that have a 20" case. Even with the 14" long x 4" width Magnaflows pre-mufflers, coupled with the Borla rear boxes, she's still too loud in the cabin during cruise. I'm figuring if the 20" Dynomax Super Turbos fit, the Magnaflow pre-mufflers may be deleted provided she's quiet.

 

you could probably custom build that exhaust with two magnapack 10425 or 10445 's and a single 10790 x pipe with the stock rear boxes. the only downside is if you dont like it, you are stuck with it unless you want to pay $$$ to go back to stock (like I am ).

 

Dido

 

Don't suppose there is any hope of getting this thread back on track?

Qwiketz intake elbow thread including pics and dyno charts

Might be a good idea to start a General Exhaust discussion thread rather than completely dilute Qwiketz's thread.

Just sayin', in case he is feeling a little miffed.

 

I was just thinking the same thing...

Qwiketz, everything arrived OK as you promised. Had to take about 1" off the end of the tube and then everything fitted like a glove. Actually, looks ultra-sharp with the plastic noise cover on!

Went for a 10-minute drive into town traffic, parked, made a purchase and then drove home. Last mile was clear road. Opened the hood, pipe was cool. Closed hood, came back 20 mins later, opened hood, connectors were OK but inlet pipe was now much too hot to touch. I'm going to heat-wrap that sucker.

 

Yup, I had the simular problem but discovered if you first remove the airbox, then attach the elbow w/coupler to the the S/C side only, rotated the elbow upward 45 degrees, then install the airbox to the elbow (while in the air) then rotate the whole thing down into place, I got it work without cutting the tube...

 

Well, here it is - thermally more efficient, not much bling.

 

Interesting. Inform us all if you notice a difference.

 

Robin, you inspired me to wrap the Mafioso air intake tube. Guys, Time to pulley and port the blower, and "Chiller Killer" (blower intake charge cooling circuit).

 

Nice wrap job! Looks like you spent some time and effort to get it on there nice and even. I've thought about it as well, and Jegs actually sells black colored header wrap - I have it on the Borla header/downpipe on my Jeep. I'd use that if I wrapped the intake tube to match the car in my case, or perhaps a wrap with a reflective surface on the outside, like you see for turbo spool wraps from companies like DEI.

I'm not sure if it's really worth the time/$ since the air is not spending a whole lot of time in the tube when the car is in motion, but the STR does stay really hot for a long time after shutdown from the blower heat. Might help a little in stop and go traffic I suppose.

 

Hey Chris X, from what I understand you do not want to use header wrap. I asked the same question a while a ago, and was told that the header wrap is actually designed to keep heat locked in. What you want is a heat tape that is also produced by DEI. This is meant to deflect and keep heat out.

 

^Yep, I agree. I don't believe I'm going to wrap mine with anything, but a good point to make by you.

 

I'd love to see someone polish the whole intake tract and leave the sound cover on. I bet that would look awesome. Taking off the cast piece is only one hose clamp.

 

Initially, I did polish the tube and fitted it with the sound cover on, and it really did look awesome! But because the tube got so hot so quickly on standing, I wrapped it. Now, at any time, I can open the hood and put my hands on that tube and it's OK.

To put your argument the other way, dvsadam, I am keeping the heat in the engine compartment and out of the pipe. I figure that most of the heat is convective, not radiant, and that light-colored tape absorbs less heat than dark-colored tape.

Maybe I'm wrong, but with the air baffle plate gone, K&N filter in and qwiketz tube wrapped, the car sounds great and goes just beautifully. Coming up - 1.7 lb pulley and ECU tune.

 

Hey guys. Just a thought about the install that you may or may not have done. Anyhow, when you are installing the airbox connector, did you slide it all the way onto the tube up to the breather fitting? When you do that there's only about 1/2" or 3/4" of connector hanging beyond the tube. Perhaps would you be able to wiggle it on with only that much there?

Anyhow, looking forward to seeing some dyno runs!