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So I had split hot/cold air on right and left vents. I had the DCCV replaced by a Jag indy. I now get only hot air from all vents. Pulled the RCCM expecting to find burned traces but it looks pristine. I have read that the RCCMs are pretty robust and do not fail as often as the CCMs. Could this be a bad microcontroller or maybe bad wiring further down (I had bad/corroded connector wiring further up from the coolant sensor) ? Any ideas how to check for either? I am going to start the jaguarclimatecontrol procedure B but I noticed it only mentions the CCM and not sure if RCCM diagnosis would be the same.
Unsure if I should take it in and pay for electrical troubleshooting or take a chance on a used RCCM from ebay $178) and self-install. Pics below of my RCCM. If anyone has a spare one for sale, send me a PM. Thanks.
Do you have a way to read codes that might be present for that module...are you referring to the ccm diagnosis in the stickies written by Karl....if so, before you spend any more money, give Karl a chance to see your post and reply
No, I only have a Creader Launch which gives me p-codes and live data but not module info.
if by chance you lost module configuration it would throw a code....i am not real sharp with dccv operation, but maybe the new one or something about the repair is coo coo...i suggest waiting for a few more in depth replies and go from there
After removing the RCCM and driving for a few minutes the car did show code P1699, not a big surprise. If the RCCM has a bad microcontroller will it throw a code as well? Or does it only throw a code when the entire RCCM is disconnected?
After removing the RCCM and driving for a few minutes the car did show code P1699
that code was set by removing the rccm and turning the ignition on....the ecm had no comm with the module because it was removed....anyway i would still wait for more replies and maybe get a code reader that reads jaguar specific codes....icarsoft i930 is what i have...even if you don't know what the codes specifically mean, someone on the forum will...a simple code diagnostic can be upwards of 150 dollars...this unit is about 100 on ebay...money well spent...i do not know what fuses or relays control the rccm, but look in the owners manual and check any fuse that has hvac or ac or climate control in the description....even rccm...that would be an easy start....if you do not have the manual you can download one from the stickies on the x200 homepage.....also try jagrepair.com and look for any topics that might relate to climate control
So I had split hot/cold air on right and left vents. I had the DCCV replaced by a Jag indy. I now get only hot air from all vents.
Big clue there. You changed a part and the symptoms changed. That would indicate either a defective part, or said part caused damage elsewhere.
I'd suggest starting at the very beginning, and making no assumptions that a part must be good because it is new. From my monument to verbosity, here a test of the DCCV in post #2:
One thought on that test, as written. They have you doing most of those steps with the engine running. It would be just as effective, and far safer, to check with the engine off. Just make sure the battery is fully charged. Each valve is going to draw nearly the same current with the engine on or off. You'd get a slight decrease with the engine off as the system voltage is slightly less, but you could always repeat the test with the engine running if there is any question.
I'd suggest starting at the very beginning, and making no assumptions that a part must be good because it is new. From my monument to verbosity, here a test of the DCCV in post #2:
Specifically, make sure the fuse for the DCCV is still good. Could be the new DCCV caused the fuse to open.
Let it be known henceforth that kr98664 is a F@$%ing rockstar! Blown DCCV fuse for the win and it seems these RCCMs are pretty durable. Replaced fuse and currently have cold AC.
I was getting too far ahead of myself, already looking at RCCM replacements and wiring checks.
I asked the indy to specifically replace my DCCV, afterwards they said it was still blowing hot air and I should check out the RCCM to see if it was bad. Would checking the fuse (given that I specifically asked for the part replacement, not necessarily symptom solution) be considered reasonable due diligence or is it understandable that they didn't check?
How does a newly installed DCCV blow the fuse or does the old, bad DCCV take it down?
I will give it a week and check back to ensure the fuse was the solution and then hopefully have this marked as solved. Thanks again.
See,i told you Karl would come to the rescue.,..i think your indie is due for a little earful myself....the repair should have been checked for full functionality....bottom line is that it works great though
How does a newly installed DCCV blow the fuse or does the old, bad DCCV take it down?
Glad you got it sorted out. In case the fuse blows again, don't panic. The AC compressor clutch is powered by the same fuse. That may have been the culprit. Or the new DCCV may be defective, drawing too much current. If the fault returns, you can troubleshoot it then with an ammeter. Until then, I wouldn't worry about it.
Could the old DCCV have blown the fuse? Hard to say. If at least one side was responding to the heat command, that meant the fuse was intact. Same for the AC operation (same fuse), even if the DCCV was dumping heat into the cabin at the same time.
Did you save the old DCCV? It would be interesting to test it and see if the coil on each side draws the specified 0.6 - 0.9 amps.
Should the shop have caught the blown fuse? Probably, but then again, you hired them to replace a specific part, not troubleshoot and repair based on the symptoms. Furthermore, what good will it do you to make a stink about it? Pulling a Kruschev and pounding your shoe on the counter won't help you. They'll just remember you as a difficult customer and possibly decline further work from you.