Welcome aboard, SlowChevy.

This looks familiar: (Post #12 has a link to one tool that works.)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...lp-fast-52107/

Not necessary to remove the park-brake cable.

 

vance580 may come by here to help. He's pretty knowledgeable on the "S" brakes.

 

I have a 2000 S-Type and this link should help http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...RearBrakes.pdf

 

Great post, thanks. I have a problem with my 2008 S-Type 3.0.
The tool you picture and the tool kit that Auto Zone lends does not work with my rear pistons. The spacing of the hole/indentation on the piston is closer than any of the tool options. Therefore I can not rotate the piston. Also the pads have pins/projections that should position the pads correctly to the pistons. This does not happen as the spacing on the pads is different from the pistons. What happens is that one pin seats properly but the other can not align so the pad ends up cocked. I only have 23,000 miles on the 2008 S-Type but the pads are completely gone and the disks are worn away 1/16 of an inch. I bought new calipers, disks and pads from Auto Zone and they have the same problem. Pin center to center distance is different from the piston holes center to center distance.

I talked to Auto Zone and they are baffled so I am heading to the dealer with the caliper in hand and buy pads with matching pin centers if they have them. Perhaps I will also need to purchase new calipers.

Anyone with a similar problem?

 

I thought that the pistons had slots in them rather than holes, meaning that just about any tool would fit. I don't remember pins on the back of pads either...............

Why are you replacing the rotors? Are they worn below minimum thickness?

 

I think there are holes in the piston Mikey, but the pad can't have pins or how will the piston rotate out as the pad wears?

 

My car's pistons have slots in them, similar to the ones shown in Gus' how-to guide linked above. (?)

 

Either way the pads can't lock into them.
Maybe a pic would help Pistonspeed?

 

Is the master cylinder cap off? Should be. Another old trick to screw downs is this. Some of the tools suck so you have to improvise. I use channel lock pliers and turn it with these. Easy on the pressure and don't gouge the rubber. You have better leverage and they go all the way down.

 

Piston speed,

I would check you have the correct pads, for your Vin No# > N52048?? Dia 326mm back disks.

I removed odd/strange rear pads from my 4.2 which someone had managed to force in, which had backing location springs on the back of the pad, making the pad and disk clearance far too small.

This caused extreme screeching once the brake dust built up.

The correctly fitted pads, cured this.

The old pads looked the same physically but had these springs on the back of them?

May be someone fitted the incorrect pads to your car in the past. 1/16" sounds a lot for 24k.

I also tried a couple of wind-back tools, without success to turn the piston back, got it with long nosed pliers thou.

Have a look at at some of the on line vendor cats for pad details and sizes.
But check using you car vin no#