I'm planning to replace my rear brake pads. They've been making unpresent noise for a while now. I called the Jag dealer but they're asking way too much for it. They quoted me $264 parts + $120 labour.

So, I decided to purchase the after-market pads and do it myself.

I read couple of thread here already. I think I'm up for the chellenge.

I'll be using following as guideline.
http://www.napacanada.com/en/NAPAKno...iscBrakes.aspx
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=27293
And Autozone has pretty good instructions for Jag S-Type with diagrams/pictures.

Does anyone have tips on this project? This will be my first brake pad replacement.

Also, any recommendation on the pads?

 

Actually it is really easy.. Have you ever done a rear disc brake job before? Most rear discs have a twist in caliper piston vs the "squeeze" in piston you'll find on the front.

There are a couple of pointers / hints.

1) Hold down the parking brake switch when you turn off the car so the parking brake won't engage.

2) Some people have had success twisting down the piston with pliers.. I used one of the cheap cubes that fit on a 3/8 drive ratchet that are designed for rear brakes. I had to use the side with four pins and grind two of the pins off to end up with the proper pins that fit the holes in the piston. Once I did that it was real easy to turn in.

3) I'm a bit pressed for time or I would search for it..... There is a post on here about the proper way to reset the parking brake. I didn't do that, Doh... There is a risk to the parking brake motor if you just let it reset itself. If you search rear parking brake you should find it...

Other than that, if you've done other cars before it is cake. If not, just take your time and all will be good...

As far as pads go, well there are a bunch of choices out there. Just do a bit of research and find what fits your driving style the best.

 

Thanks for the tips.
This will be my very FIRST time doing it.

btw, should I worry about the rear rotor? It seems be fine other than there is very small uneven wear.

Front brake pads and rotors have been replaced about 6 months ago with factory jag 320m rotor and aftermarket pads. The shop changed the pads only at the first but I had to go back several times due to front brake noise. At the end the rotor was replaced and pads (warranty replacement pads).

 

How's the brake pads from NAPA? Are they any good?

AE7845M Brake Pads - Rear, AE Metallic OE Ceramic 100
AEC7845 Brake Pads - Rear, AE Ceramic OE Ceramic 103
D1020DP Brake Pads - Rear, Organic PBR Brand $92
D1020M Brake Pads - Rear, Metallic PBR Brand $107

Seems little too expensive......

 

I think you can count on changing the rotors too. Mine looked fine from the outer face but were ground to worthlessness (?) on the backs.

The parking brake reset procedure is easy enough to follow, just not intuitive.

 

I found the instructions for the EPB reset.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...+parking+brake

I guess I will need to decide on the pads pretty soon. I want to get this done this weekend.

 

Here's the comments from Jag dealer couple of month back.

"show signs of glazing on the rotors. brake pad measurements l/r 5mm r/r 4mm. to completely elimminate the noise the rear brake pads and rotors would need to be replaced."

Should I replace the pads only for now? or go for the rotors as well? If I'll be replacing both, I want to do some research and order them from internet (US) and pick them up in US. If I go for the pads only, I just source pads from local NAPA store or some other auto part store.



How's the Autozone's brake pads and rotors? It's call "Duralast" brand. Pads are $40 USD, and Rotor is $23 USD each. I might just order them and pick them up on this Friday.

 

I almost always do rotors and pads as a set. I have used Duralast in the past with no problems. I would check on the friction material. Inexpensive Semi-metallic pads tend to produce a ton of brake dust. Also, I personally always run the same material front and rear, so what was put on the front would be a factor in my choice. Other users on here have run different pad types on the front and rear, but I personally wouldn't do it.

 

I've had great success with the ThermoQuiet series of brake pads made by Wagner. Put a set of semi-metallic pads on the front axle of our S-Type last July when the car had just turned 32,000 miles and the factory pads were just about done. Now the car is pushing 45,000 miles and those pads remain dead-silent, never a peep out of 'em at any speed. Bought them at Advance Auto Parts for about $55 and they have a lifetime warranty. If they wear out, just take 'em in and get a brand-new set. Our S-Type's factory semi-metallic front pads always made a huge mess with brake dust while these ThermoQuiet pads create maybe one-fifth of the amount of dust that the factory pads did. I can easily live with that. The front rotors were still within specs so I didn't turn them. Worked out well for me. When I last took a good look at the rear brakes on this car (a couple of weeks ago), the rear pads still look like they have 40% to 50% of life left so it will be a while before I have to do them....

I also replaced the factory front pads and factory rear pads in 2009 on my wife's 2004 Lexus RX330 SUV using the appropriate ThermoQuiet pads. Rear pads had to be done at about 80,000 miles, front pads had to be done at about 85,000 miles. Did not turn either set of rotors since they were all still within specs. The application for this vehicle called for organic pads. They cost about $10 more per set than the semi-metallic pads, but they create virtually no brake dust. And again, lifetime warranty and dead-silent on both axles from day one....

I highly recommend these Wagner ThermoQuiet pads....

 

It looks like some pads comes with shim and others are not. What's the difference?

I'll visiting state side tomorrow. My wife wants to go to Tulip Festival in Burlington, WA area. I'm planning to pick up the pads from Autozone.

 

I just did all 4 corners with rotate tires, etc. the rear pads were almost gone at 25K miles. front have 2/3 left. I rented the caliper tool from O'Reilly's (Autozone should also) which made it a piece of cake. Thanks for the ESD reset procedure. My wife is very happy with the brakes and I am happy with the cost!!!

 

I just replace the rear brake pad. one thing, the brake feels really spongy. really soft and it goes all the way in. Do I need to bleed the brake oil?

 

oh well... my mistake... I didn't read all the instruction. Once I bleeded the brake fluid, everything is working fine. Thank you everyone!!

 

That shouldn't be necessary.

 

I followed the Autozone's instruction which asked to disconnect brake line. :P and it did state to bleed the brake after. It's all good now.

It was very hard to turn the piston back. I bought the unversal rear brake cube. Even with that, it was very challenging to turn.

My rear brake pads were worn quite a bit. Once I took it out and compare with new, it was pretty obvious to replace them.

Over all it took little longer than planned. I had to go to part store to buy the brake fluid. Overall it was good learning experience.

The next project is "Valve Cover / Spark Plug Gaskets" replacement.

 

Yikes.

Next time, best to follow the Jaguar instructions, not some generic part supplier. This action is what caused the low pedal by inducting air into the system.


How was the back surface of the rotor compared to the front?

 

The front rotor and pads were replaced about 6months ago. I checked the rear rotor and compared with my other ride's (Mazda6) rear rotor. They seem just fine.

 

My biggest issue was getting the caliper assembly off the right rear rotor. Along the outer edge of the rotor is a lip worn in that stopped the pads from easily sliding off. Since the piston does not squeeze in it was tough to get clearance to remove the pads. Once off it went smoothly. I expected to bleed them--I always do and Jag wants the brake fluid changed every 3 years anyway.

I don't typically remove the brake line unless I'm doing more involved stuff with the caliper. For pads/rotors/bleed I'd rather leave it all together. Just me though.

Like I said before, I was surprised that the rear pads were toast and the front still have 2/3 left. A AutoTech friend of mine said that some cars, like the Acura TL are like that. He says the front pads are thicker and larger so perhaps that is why they, seemingly paradoxically, wear out the rear pads faster than the front. Whatever.

 

I think it may depend upon driving style. Our S-Type's factory front pads were done at 32,000 miles. But its factory rear pads still have between 40% and 50% of life left at 45,000 miles. My wife is an easy driver, does twice as many highway miles as city miles, and uses cruise control whenever she's on the highway....

 

Also, whenever TSC kicks in, the rear brake will be applied. I think I chewed up the rear brakes during winter storm couple years back.