Hi, first post from a Montreal based owner of a silver 2003 4.2L S-type, presently around 130,000 wonderful kms on it.

I believe the time has come to visit the rear brake assemblies. Fronts were done last year using OEM pads. Rotors are original all round.

1) The brake pedal 'seems' to be a little spongy with slightly increased travel. No leaks anywhere

2) Under moderate braking a rapid thumping can be heard from the rear consistent with wheel speed. No vibration felt though steering wheel.

3) Parking brake appears to only be effective on one of the two wheels. If the p/brake is applied manually while the car is barely moving, only one side grabs.

Reading through previous posts in the archives, special care must be taken to release the p/brake prior to removing the caliper and the pistons must be re-wound into the bores to accomodate the new pads. Sounds easy and straight forward and I do intend to do this job myself aside from having the local shop address the build up of material on the rotors. I have also planned on using OEM pads as experience with other cars with aftermarket pads was not positive.

Am I on the right track?

Thanks in advance.

 

OK, no replies, maybe a different tack.

Can someone point me to a document or suggest a shop manual that would show the procedure?

Thanks.

 

I'd measure all thicknesses (pads etc) and check against spec. Also check (better: clean & where appropriate apply copper grease) moving parts. Make sure no fluid loss or signs of it, and no chafing of brake lines etc. None of this is specific to jags let alone S-Types so read up on the net. Also check for even wear of metal braking surfaces (inner & outer) and no deep scoring.

There is no doubt helpful data in jtis so look there.

You need a tool to wind the caliper in but they're easily found and bought if you look around.

Change any worn items.

I wouldn't cut any corners so beware of anyone suggesting any such.

I also wouldn't jump to conclusions about the effects you mentioned until you've done all the basics.

 

Hi Mikey,

I think you're on the right track. I replaced the rear pads on my 2005 a few months ago with no real instructions except to release the parking brake and screw in the caliper pistons as you've already indicated. Once you pull the wheel off, it all should be pretty obvious to you. I had trouble finding a proper tool for winding the piston in and used needle nose pliers instead (you need to be careful not to damage the piston and it was a bit of a pain). You also need to re-calibrate the parking brake once everything's back together... I think the simplest way is to disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and let the instrument panel display walk you through it (although there is a procedure documented somewhere in the archives here I think... so you can do it w/o disconnecting the batt.). I also then put the car in neutral on my flat garage floor, disengaged the parking brake, and then made sure the rear brakes didn't drag (i.e. the car could very easily be pushed) to ensure that the park brake calibration was correct.

You might want to just replace the rotors with a new set while you're at it... if I recall correctly, once you have the caliper off, it's extremely trivial to swap those out... I wish I would've had a new set handy when I did mine.

Hope this helps a bit... good luck,

Bob

 

Sorry Mikey, I have yet to replace rear brakes. But to answer your question for detailed instructions (shop manual) I HIGHLY suggest www.alldatadiy.com $25.00 (US) 1 year subscription. It covers your entire vehicle. You may also try looking at autozone.com for a free procedure.

 

cutting corners....meaning using junkyard rotors that look "good".

 

Hello Mikey, Way to go doing it yourself. It will be easy. Here are a couple of other answers to some of your questions. I've done the rear brakes on mine as well. They are no different than any other rear brake. If you did a search you may have seen my post on the brakes and tires. If you can't find it I will help.... Here it is...https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=11525

As stated in that thread, you can use a universal rear brake tool that is available at any auto parts store, but you may run into the pins not fitting correctly. I would hold off a bit and get the set from Summit Racing. I think Sears sells a similar set. You could also do what I did and grind off the unnecessary pins on a side that looks like it will fit. I can help further if you need.
I also found that I didn't need to calibrate the parking brake when I was done. I did make sure to manually pump the brakes before starting the car, then pumped them again when the car was started. I then put it into gear and backed out. Then stopped and put the car in park and engaged the parking brake again and all worked fine. Again, nothing exceptional and very similar to any other car I've worked on.

Also... Thumbs Up for the quality parts comment! Can't go wrong there!

 

Wow! Thanks for all the help, it's very much appreciated. Seems that some of you have had positive experience with specific aftermarket pieces, that's good news.

I hate going to my local Jag dealer. Putting co$t$ aside, they hare rarely been able to fix things first time around, necessitating a second or third visit.

 

I recently did my rear brakes as well. Followed Jeff's advice. I used a caliper tool set I got from Harbor Freight for $19 to wind the pistons in. It works very well and will both push and turn the piston in. I put Wagner Thermoquiet pads on my 06, and, the brake dust on the rear rims is minimal after several weeks of running the new pads.

Regards:
Oldengineer

 

Don't you have to replace the rotors too?

 

If you are doing any work on your Jaguar PLEASE get the correct Jaguar JTIS service CD. It is on EBay for under $10 including shipping. It will be the best $10 you will ever spend!!!
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Why, if I may ask? Aside from some pad residue that will easily be power sanded off, the rotors are in great shape.

 

That's what I'm asking. I had read and heard that the rotors are to be changed with the pads. Perhaps not.

 

No need to change the rotors unless they are worn.

 

for the spongey brake pedal, i think a fluid change is in line here. i used valvoline synthetic fluid on my xj and the difference was day and night. MUCH better braking .

the fluid in there im assuming was the original, 70k miles and 6 years old. it was very honey like and dirty too.

cost= $10 us. time was about an hour with the help of my father.

 

Or warped.

 

Is there a history of genuinely warped rotors on S-types? I do not believe in routine machining/turning of rotors as it simply grinds away precious material needlessly.

 

An occasional owner has posted that they've cured their problem that way. Not often enough that I'd say warped ones are at all common on the S-Type. (The whole subject is open to dispute, gulp!)

 

My experience on other cars is that the resin or goo that binds the pad friction material togther will accumulate on the surface of the rotor and cause an audible 'thump', wheel shake, or pedal kick back when the brakes are applied. I know some garages will routinely machine or replace the rotors but I have had excellent results by simply removing the material with an angle grinder and appropriate 'sanding' pad. 3M sells a kit.

 

Now stop that you comedian!

I'm what some people call an animal on brakes . I decided that I wanted to upgrade to slotted rotors when I did my brake job. I kept the old rotors because they were still in great condition. Just refinish them and they should be OK, except of course if you feel any kind of vibration.