The Jag dealer just called me back (to my suprise) and now says there are both "internal and external" shaft bearings, and... that there were "major rearend/diff changes made mid-year 2003." As such he now says he cannot give me accurate quote without the VIN number. Im going to call him back with VIN to see what he says- will keep you posted incase it offers any usable info

AJ

 

On my car is was infact the wheel bearing. I was not aware of and saw no reference to any inner bearings on the car. I don't have diagrams handy but I believe that once the tire, strut, etc are off the whole driveshaft slides out of the differential housing. This whole thing can then be taken to the shop to have the new bearing installed. If I am not mistaken.

I do believe my tire/alignment guy did the job for 2 - 300 bucks.

 

Here are some diagrams from the JTIS showing the entire rear suspension setup.

I think most people are pointing to the wheel bearing. Item # 5. You need to remove the hub #4 and have the old one pressed out and the new one pressed in EXACTLY the same. It's not that hard but you can screw it up. Watch out for the ABS ring!









Hope it helps!
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Thanks guys. Just to be clear, this is a rearend only noise. (And its actually rightward radius, not left, that causes noise , if it matters).

The jag dealer tells me that I have the VIN model year that requires the entire half-shaft & rear hub assembly be replaced, (SAJEA01U23HM92901). Says bearing cannot be replaced. Don't know if I should believe him? Says it will cost $2000.00 or a bit more for the job to be done right. He also says to search local/national junk yards for used assembly to save $$$.

So, am I looking up wrong part online? Am I cluless? What has changed (if anything). Should I believe him? Dont know what to do...

And thanks clubairth1. Diagrams are greatly appreciated.

AJ

 

aj007, that "dealer" is a "*******". Get the car out of there! Bring it to any competent independent mechanic for rear wheel bearing replacement. The STR rear bearing setup is basically the same for most cars with an independent suspension. Gosh, what is happening here? People trying to rip off anyone coming through their doors...sad.

 

The dealer means "we don't replace the bearing except by changing the whole part". Just like they don't change the trans fluid. Doesn't mean you have to go with them and their (expensive) way of doing things.

 

I have a rear end noise I have been trying to diagnose.

Sounds a bit like a wheel bearing, but happens to only do it on deceleration, and most audible slowing from 20mph-to-0mph.

Makes me think it could be the differential itself, but I swear it's happening from the left side specifically, and not the pumpkin down the center.

Custom exhaust with mina-mufflers means I can't really tell if there is a wheel-bearing-like-roar coming from the rear at higher speeds.

I'm thinking of starting with the wheel bearings and see if that cures it.

 

I agree. Wheel bearings are cheap and much easier to change than half shafts or differential bearings. Do the easy stuff first then if you still have the noise dig deeper.

And yes the wheel bearings can be serviced by themselves so don't follow that dealers advice.
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Ok guys, thanks a million. Im going to focus on the hub bearings as you have advised. Think JagV8 has it right re the dealer. I think I might be able to rig up a "press" with an old harmonic balancer/pulley puller I have from back in the day. If not I'll take it in to a shop. Anyone know if the VIN makes a differnce in the part number? Who's the most reliable parts place. Where did you get yours?

AJ

 

I don't think I would try to "rig up a press" to try and save a few bucks. The steel bearing is in an aluminum housing (hub) and often welds itself in. It can be very difficult to remove and can require a large press operated by someone with experience. You otherwise risk cracking the alum. housing *read expensive!
Pressing out the old and inserting the new cost me about $75.00 if I recall.

 

aj007, Matt makes good sense. If you insist on swapping in bearings yourself and are appropriately mechanically inclined, why make it hard on yourself? Pay a machine shop to press on the new bearings.

 

Almost forgot! There's also a big circlip that retains the bearing in the housing. You will need special LARGE circlip pliers to get it out and reinst. a new one. The mach. shop will have this tool.

 

Thanks matty427 & bsfgross. I was a mechanic in a previous life but I haven't really worked on cars since about 1989 or so (well maybe on my own cars on and off till ~1995). Did do frnt end rebuilds, brake jobs, alignments, was an A/C "specialist" and did just about everything in those days (ASE certified [for what that's worth]). Still have all my old tools and air tools ect.

But,... I've been a medical professional since and hardly ever get my hands greasy, but I do think I can handle this, and my son is a heavy mining machinery mechanic who probably has a small press on his out-rigger. If not then I will take it in to a shop as I dont want to risk messing up hub assmb. I'll be damned if I'm going to pay $2000.00 as the dealer quoted

What I need to know is if there are different bearings for different VIN numbers or was that info even needed when you guys ordered your bearings? Also did the rear end need to be re-aligned?

Thanks,
AJ

 

Aj, call Jagbits or any other jaguar parts supplier. Behave as a prospective buyer and see if they ask for the VIN. Otherwise, the bearings were likely the same for each or consecutive years and can be easily had at a local auto parts store.

 

According to the JEPC all the rear wheel bearings are the same. V-6, V-8 and all years. Looks like the LS uses the same bearing but possibly NOT the same ABS sensor.

Rock Auto has the wheel bearings (item #2) and they are only about $30 each. Note the large retainer ring (item 3) that was mentioned above. I would also replace the rear tie rods. The rubber boots decay and they are a known wear item. They are item 9 below. Again do not damage the ABS ring.


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clubairth1, I can't thank you enough for those diagrams,.. exremely helpful! Thanks to all above too.

I plan on tackling this next weekend if my son is free. Found bearings here local, chose the ones manufactured by Timken ($28.00 ea.) Can't find the circlips though. May have to reuse old ones or I guess I could order online.

All inner and outer tie rod boots have absolutely no cracks or any signs of leaking or play and almost look new?? (wonder if they were replaced before I bought the car?). The "ABS Ring" looks to be part of the CV joint outer housing (#2 in your halfshaft diagram) so should slip out of the hub assmb (assuming it splined) and stay out of the way unless there's another ring Im not seeing. I didnt take wheel off, just looked under car and yanked and puled on tie rods

AJ007

 

I sometimes find the CV axle stub spline is stuck in the hub. I have used a hub puller to separate them or in a pinch a brass punch and hammer. Use a bit of grease or anti-seize on the axle splines when you reassemble the hub.

Yes the ABS ring should be out of the way but they seem to be a weak type of cast metal. I thought they needed to be steel because of the Hall effect sensor but they don't seem to be?
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Good advise clubairth1. Interesting and,.. will do.

When I get the job done I will post my experience if it adds anything to the forum.

Thanks, aj007

 

Good luck aj

 

Hi guys,
I finally got around to doing the rear output shaft/wheel hub bearing on my 2003 S Type 4.2. I did the right side only due to time constraints and as that's where the noise seemed to be coming from.

As previously posted by you, with the wheels off and the car and trans in drive, I could hear lots of bearing noise even at low speed (10-15 mph) coming from the right side only. I disconnected everything,... easier than I thought it would be, didn't need any impact hammers, Cotter pins ect, as there wern't any ball joint like (tapered) connections including the tie-rod end. The original bearings turned out to be the same as I bought (Timken) and both made in Spain. Turns out tie-rod end rubber was worse that I thought.

I used a small rigged- up press (that was actually an 'outrigger' on my son's work truck) to push the hub out of the bearing. The bearing was so bad that it quickly fell apart, leaving the races, one stuck to the inside of the hub shaft, the other to the inside of the housing assm. I was going to use my son's acetyline torch to heat up the races etc but found to his surprize that tank was empty ahh! Needless to say, I quickly employed a local machine shop to press out the old remaining races and press back together the new bearing, hub, and housing assembly. Their charge- $45/side

I put everything back together but could not find torque specs. I guesstemated using the other side at what the axel nut torque is (approximately 150 ft lbs) using my torque wrench and thats what I went with on the right side. I used anti-seize on the axle splines.

Long story short, after everything was put back together I went for a test drive. Holy $#*@, what a difference! My car is so quiet I can hear the leather squeak. I put it through some test runs at both low and high speeds making wide as well as narrow turns. Absolutely no noise at all. Now just have to do the other side. I took some pics, and I will post some when I figure out how to do it,.. probably after I do the other side (which most likely will have to wait till after the holidays.) Again, The diagrams you posted were very helpful!!

Soooo, total cost is approx $140.00, compared to approx $2000.00 quoted by local Jag dealer...gives one a gooood feeling!!!

aj007