OK, apart from the mirrors being AWOL, the following is messing with my brain cells.

S Type 08/2001 V6 SE.

It has the separate remote transmitters, rectangular with 3 buttons, lock/unlock/boot release.

One transmitter works just fine.

The other does not. New battery fitted, just because, contacts tweeked a tad, coz I read that here, now it opens the boot (trunk), but nothing else. Obviously it is communicating with the car, but, what's gone AWOL here, anyone got a clue.

Is there some secret press sequence whilst standing on one leg at right angles to the interior mirror, tongue slightly exposed (like sons BMW, dumb car), or is the Jag "normal"???????.

 

contacts tweaked .. is that the same as cleaning the circuit board switch contact pads and the rubber buttons? alcohol does a fine job of that.

 

Nope.

I read here that "bending" the contacts CAREFULLY so proper connection with the battery helps a lot, makes sense.

Cleaning, OH.

Alcohol is for drinking, is it not??.

OH, you mean that OTHER alcohol, we call it "contact cleaner", comes in a P/P can, great for "sniffing", NOT.

 

ok then ..

the contact pads under the rubber pads get dirty .. sometimes black .. a pencil eraser does a good job of burnishing them to bright copper again .. the grunge also gets on the rubber pads, so those need to be cleaned too.

the remote itself is ok because it is talking to the car for the boot. so the security pairing and frequency are correct.

 

Plums,

MAYBE you have answered the door switch pack issues I am having in that other thread????????.

Same principle of operation I THINK. Pads on a membrane that contact the circuit board to do what you ask. I washed all that with the contact cleaner, but did NOT rub/scrub/etc the areas for fear of buggering something up, so maybe.

I will attack the remote tomorrow after work, and the mirror issue "when I get time".

 

Sort of a two for one deal then.

 

OK, got a spare moment today, given up on the mirrors for now.

As per Plums suggestion I dissmantled the remote. Now bear in mind this is a 8/2001 car, so the remote is the seperate 3 button unit, NOTHING to do with the key, and NOT the "switchblade" style.

The circuit board has 3 SMALL micro switches attached, one under each membrane point, and can clearly be heard clicking when pushed, sweet, at least they click.

Cleaned them with cleaner, and manually worked them a few hundred times to allow the cleaner to clean the internals contacts, well the thought was there.

Reassembled and tested, NOTHING. Kept pushing the boot opening button, as it did work, and eventually it worked, mmm, pushed the "lock" button a few times, and it also eventually locked the car, but NO WAY it would unlock, bugga.

Spoke to the dealer, "maybe a re-program is required. as they get off frequenciy some times", mmmm, not convinced.

I have read on here for the last few hours all about remotes and most of it is switchblade, or keyfob style, and very little about this seperate remote thingy. Maybe the USA did not get that style ?????, BUT, most of the related cars are 2003 onwards, so I am still looking for answers.

Any suggestions??.

 

This past Saturday morning, my S-Type key fob failed to function. I had changed the battery in my key fob less than two months ago so I knew a battery failure was unlikely. Took the fob apart, cleaned up the circuit board contacts with a Q-Tip and some alcohol, reassembled it making certain all the components were clean and tight, but still nothing....

Went inside and grabbed my wife's S-Type key fob. Back outside to the car, and her fob worked perfectly. Immediately tried my fob again, and presto, now it worked perfectly....

My only explanation is that her rarely-used key fob triggered the programming that my often-used key fob had somehow lost. Yet another ridiculous Jaguar quirk....

 

In terms of (non-)functioning, it's irrelevant whether separate or combined fob.

The problem could be any of many. E.g. some interference. Or a dodgy aerial in the car. Dodgy module(s). Etc. Just troubleshoot if you want. Start by checking the 2nd fob. Not got one? Someone else has it, then, as all the cars shipped with 2. I'd get another and get the one you don't have deleted (adding the new one does that anyway). With 2 you can rule out a lot of potential problems very quickly.

 

Mmmmm, NAH, but thanks for the reply.

The fob that works is the "worn" unit. The fob that is dodgy is the "better looking".

If the module/antenna/etc were hissy, then neither would work, as the X300 proved.

As I said earlier this has the 3 micro switches on the board, and NOT the touch pads with carbon contacts in the membrane, very old school. Found some replacement "micro switches" on ?bay last night, ex UK for $5, so on their way, just need a new seeing eye dog and STEADY hands to solder them to the circuit board. Fun will be had.



Couple of snaps just because.



The basic board as removed from the fob.


The point of the steak knife indicating 1 of the 3 switches I am mentioning above.

As I said, very old school.