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Like the SS pipe idea! Please post back how it came out. I just replaced the rubber hose. My original last 12 years and 119K miles so probably good enough.
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The worn taper on the pulley. It has a 10 degree angle, so I set the cross slide to 10 degrees and cleaned the surface. My boring bar was almost too short, and I had a bit of chatter on the feed in.
I had to grip the pulley on the oil seal surface at the back as the pulley is not centered if you grip the outside. That made the distance from the tool holder longer and allowed for the vibration. Nothing to be done about that except buying a sturdier longer boring bar, so I live with this.
After clean up.
After the pulley, now the new collet. Keeping the same setting on the lathe, and hand feeding, I will get the same taper on collet and pulley, given some grace!
After parting off the stock, still hot and good looking!
After cutting a split with an angle grinder, voila!! new fatter, shining and slightly longer split collet!
New and old! Note how the split has been pressed together on the old unit. It has not been able to grab the shaft properly.
380Nm of torque!!! Pulley arrester that actually works! My torque wrench goes to 200Nm. The rest done with a breaker bar and a healthy extension! AArrrrgh!
Taking pictures around corners!! shows this neat, and very tight connection. Tomorrow the hunt is on for a bigger torque wrench to just make damned sure this baby is vas! (fas=tight) in Afrikaans! :icon_screw y:
Looks good. For a tip, I've had good luck using a couple big rubber bands on the boring bar to dampen the vibrations. Poor boy fix for my little Logan lathe that was shown me by one of the machinists at work who did the same for chatter marks on a difficult bore job.
Per the torque, you should be able to calculate it. 190 N of pull on a 2 meter stick will net 380 Nm of torque at the pivot point. My 1/2" torque wrench only goes to 210 Nm so I'd probably do the same thing and hope the tools don't break. Use a pull scale or pick up something similar to figure what 190 N feels like.
Wise words! and thanks Ranchero!
My breaker bar would be about one meter and pulled with about half my strength, so I guess it will be about right/tight.
The rubber band trick I have also seen with some of the chaps that weld and the re-machine aluminium rims. Once they go into the lathe, they often "ring" and you get vibration marks in the machining. They use old bicycle rubber tubes around the rim to lessen or prevent this, and it works, strangely enough.
I found a ridge at the back of the pulley, in which I inserted a normal O-ring of the correct size. That is what seems to determine the protrusion of the pulley, once in place. Without this O-ring, the pulley appeared to be about 2mm too close to the engine.
I have been toying with the idea of using Loctite, but I am reluctant to take all the bits off again. It just seems to fit perfectly! And I am a bit worried about any damage to the oil seal, if it binds there, so I guess I am just going to leave it.
I hope these are not words I might regret in the future
Now for the slow re-assembley.
I had to grip the pulley on the oil seal surface at the back as the pulley is not centered if you grip the outside.
Are you saying the belt surface is not concentric with the bore? If so, that means the pulley will wobble once in motion. Maybe that's why this poor car has spit out the pulley before. Even with your nice machine work, it is almost guaranteed to happen again if the pulley will still wobble.
Also, have you considered adding any sort of locking mechanism to that bolt? I have a few ideas that might work.
Yes, the pulley will not center if you grab it by the outside. That is something small, but big enough to not make the taper cut correct.
That is why I had to grab it from on the oil sealing lip, behind. Those parts are most likely machined together originally, and will line up much better.
That is a common thing with any object, it is difficult to line up again, if removed from the lathe, even if perfectly round!.
The "wobble" is not serious, maybe a fraction of a millimeter, and not something to worry about in use in the engine.
As for alignment, I have checked with a straight edge on the edge of the pulley and the idler,bot outsides are in line, the position is correct within a millimeter.
As for the bolt, I don't think it will go anywhere. If it has to be secured, it could be done with Loctite.
I think the original trouble has been the result of a bad repair. There is silicone sealant on the front chain cover, and both intercoolers have signs of the same silicone sealer. So somebody has been in there and most likely not torqued the cranskshaft bolt sufficiently or used a worn split collet. The result has been the pulley coming off. It was then repaired, but I doubt correctly, it is a lot of work to take all the radiators out to gain access, and if the pulley slips once, it is not going to help using stock collets to fix it, as material will have been lost, and the original dimensions lost too. That will call for an oversized collet, to compensate for the lost material.
That is what I have done now.
have you considered adding any sort of locking mechanism to that bolt?
Sorry for the late response here. Got distracted with some other stuff.
I'd definitely go with the Loctite for starters.
How thick is the back wall of the pulley, the part that faces aft towards the engine? I noticed it has some holes in it. Is it thick enough to tap some threads into the smaller holes? If so, you could make a round plate that fits inside the pulley. In the center, cut a hex-shaped opening to fit snugly over the protruding bolt head. Then secure this plate to the pulley with two small screws into the tapped holes. The tricky part would be aligning the holes. And of course you'd have to make sure the screws didn't stick out too far or they'd hit the front of the engine as the pulley rotated.
If the back wall of the pulley is too thin to be tapped for threads, there's another option. Make a similar plate, perhaps 3mm thick. Instead of the hex opening, drill the center the same as the bolt shank. Now you've got a large, thick washer for under the bolt head. Tack weld the bolt to the washer. Drill and tap two holes in the washer for screws that will go into the existing holes in the pulley. The screws aren't threaded into the pulley, they just fit in the holes. Once again, the tricky part will be aligning the holes. But once installed, you can insert the screws and they will prevent the washer and bolt from unthreading.
Or you could do like a dealer had to do with a friend's truck. His Dodge truck kept spitting out a nut in the transmission that locked one of the gears onto a shaft. After replacing this self-locking nut several times and having it repeatedly fail, they finally just tack welded the foolish thing on. Never came loose again. At rebuild time, you'd just have to grind off the weld for disassembly.
I have had a look at the rubber pipe, and I think I might have an explanation for the failures we see.
The pipe is about 9mm inside diameter, but it (for some inexplicable reason) joins a much bigger tube at the front of the engine. In order to make the right diameter, there is a step-up link used. the strange thing about that step up, is that the small end of it is significantly bigger than the ID of the pipe.
What I think has been done is that these rubber pipes have been expanded with some mechanical "fingers" so that the fitting to the oversized link would be easier. In so doing, the strengthening mesh inside the tube has been destroyed, and only the resilience of the rubber, keeps the diameter in check.
With the part I removed, there is a pronounced ridge about 20mm from the end of the thin pipe, which I think is evidence of such stretching.
The failure always seem to happen at the same spot, just before the joint. The beginning bulge can be noticed to the right of the pipe in the valley.
I think it all stems from a mechanical stretch of the pipe when manufactured.!
Slow but steady progress.
I have emptied the supercharger of oil, and re-filled with new oil.
The supercharger has got an even layer of fatty sticky stuff, which I assume might be the supercharger oil. Is that normal?
Black hole. Sucks everything from everywhere!
The bearings seem OK but there is a bit of give if you apply turning to the pulley and hold the charger lobes stationary, especially to one side. As if there is a cushion drive of sorts. I have not gone in to see, as that would lead to new bearings seals etc, but would than be normal?
Apart form that, some stripped threads show that we have had a troop of baboons let loose with spanners. I have inserted new threads in the affected areas. But to think anyone can strip a bolt on the throttle body flange!
There is a vacuum pipe that fits into the throttle body on the side, shown below. That was sealed with silicone. Obviously some sort of connector is missing. There is a 10mm hole in a brass fitting in the throttle body, and the pipe is about 8mm where it inserts. There must be a sleeve or something missing. Is that in the hole or on the plastic pipe?
Vacuum pipe and hole. What is missing?
The dark gummy stuff should be from the PCV system, oily vapor from the crankcase. If it's really bad pull the coolers and degrease them. What does the hose at the missing fitting go to? If it's a common size you should be able to get some push lock fitting and tap the throttle body for their threads.
Blower has a cushion drive in the nose. Probably a good idea to pull the nose off and inspect it since it's impossible to get too later. Blower sucks from the bottom and blows out the top.
Well, good you did. I will modify this.
I am no big fan of these hard plastic pipes either, they usually get brittle with age.
Now, for peace of mind, I just need to know if there should be "give" the one way on the SC pulley. I am a bit hesitant to take it to pieces just to look, I have on more than one occasion learned to leave sleeping dogs lie. Or don't fix it if it ain't broken.!
The engine has done 125000km, should I be worried.?
As for the non driven end of the supercharger and the seal and the special
Before adding an O-ring
bolts, the seal looks fine, still protruding lines for sealing. The rubbers on the special bolts look a bit compressed.
Bolt with standard rubber
Decided to add a small O-ring to each rubber,
O-ring added on top of rubber
to increase the clamping force and the fill in the bore for oil tightness. Fit of bolt with rubber and O-ring.
Let's hope it works.
Filled 250ml of EP 90 into the SC. Drained about half of that out first. Thought that might have been the source of the black deposits. Not serious and no scuff marks on the lobes apart from a few places where you can see something has been caught, but very lightly.
Assembly has started. Firstly I repaired the vacuum inlet to the manifold, making a fitting in brass, with a press fit into the hole:
new fitting for brake vacuum line
I found it absolutely impossible to fit the EGR bolts with the compressor in place, so took the comprssor out again to fit the EGR with two bolts while out of the car. I spent far too much time on that in retrospect.
I have one connector, which goes from the right bank flat UFO thing on top of the valve cover, across the engine and along it towards the back near the throttle body which I cannot find the connecting spot for?. It must be part of the PVC system, I think. Any pointers welcome!
Radiators all went in without too much problem, except one of the oil cooler aluminium cooling pipes were bent too much forward, and initially would not allow the fan to fit. Gentle persuasion made it see sense
The spout on the radiator shows sign of the plastic degrading on the edge, I wonder if I should change to old fashioned glycol antifreeze?
I am a bit worried about my electric pump for the SC cooling system, it has a bit of rust from a dry weep on the side. I thought of testing it, but the power feed is not obvious from the socket, and it does not seem to be an issue to get at it at a later stage if the need arises, but are they know for causing trouble?
The SS pipe in the valley fitted after a bit of fiddling, but it might actually be a bit of an overkill. Never the less done, and hopefully it works.
IT is getting close to re-fill time of oil and fluids spilled - and checking that all the untold connectors are connected - and we will see how it goes guess. I better brush up on refill and air locks!
I take it no problems with oil pump and priming? after filter removal and associated drain?
And now for an update.
To cut it short, the first attempt worked! For about 5 seconds. Started the engine and let it idle and all was fine, but on the first rev to about 3000, the pulley came off, on the deceleration of the engine.
I had a careful look, and it was clear, that with the front timing cover in place on the engine, I could not shape the crank behind the cover, and the shaft here would be thicker, and as the split collar was forced unto that part of the shaft, it would expand the collar and loose grip.
So I started afresh, took the front to pieces, and took off the cover for the timing chains, after having removed all the bits and pieces in front.
And, thankfully I did, as it turned out the cover had been cracked a previous attempt at removing the pulley!. There were marks from a puller on the casting, and a 30mm long crack in the cover. That explains why the engine was full of oil at the bottom of the front!. They had used superglue to seal the crack, and for good measure given it a layer of silicone on top, none of which worked.
I thus started with renewed determination, at filing the crank front to a parallel shaft.
I bought a new longer bolt and a thick washer to fit in front of the crank. I machined the washer to the slightly above the right diameter of the crank, so it could act as a guide for the filing. But first I carefully measured again, and made an aluminium disk, with a 6mm hole off center, to take a straight TCT cutting tool. Sticking the tool bit through the hole, and bolting the disk with to the front of the crank, allowed me to move a pneumatic cutter around the crank, while removing material at high speed. That worked almost perfectly, cleaning the front of the crank very well, apart from a couple of spots, where the bit had dug a bit in. Then I fitted the front guide washer, painted everything black and worked with a wide hand file.
The black paint revealed all the high and low spots, and I did the best with the file. I stopped when the max difference was 0,2mm measured with a micrometer.
The split collar I fitted in the pedestal drill, with a round flap sanding disk, which held it fairly well. Then I smeared valve grinding paste on the outside of the collar, and bedded it into the pulley cone. A bit of work, but it eventually had a evenly grey mat surface, indicating a good fit.
After some search I found two types of Locktite that I deemed suitable, chose the thicker viscosity, distributed it evenly on the inside of the collar, and on the shaft, and assembled it, with a one meter long bar and half my body mass for torque.
After assembling, I can only say it has worked so far. The pulley runs dead even and all seems well with revs, even the most violent ones!
I have now bought two new front tyres, and have almost completed all assembly. Found Toyota lugs for 1.3 US$ each, and they even look good
And yesterday I tried the >>,MEM,PTY of the radio, and it worked a treat!
Now I am away for six weeks, and can only drive the car upon my return.
Can hardly wait!
So, yesterday it came out.
Got a wash, it was filthy! Tyes pumped, battery fitted, and it started on the button.
Took it for a very slow trip around the block. Very stiff! I think the rear tyres have gone square from standing.
Got two messages, park brake and cruise not available.
Left it for the night. Today I cleaned it, checked oil and water again, topped up and filled fresh petrol.
It works!.
After burning off oil on the exhaust headers and other funny hot smells, it keeps water and oil. The park brake warning has gone. I bled at the expansion box. The electric pump whirs for the supercharger cooling, and the electric fan comes on. It does not seem to just stop, it slowly winds down? Never seen that before.
So, I am left with the following: rear view mirror that shakes as if the glass is loose. A yellow light to the left of the milometer, "cruise not available" and an A/C that needs filling. Today's trip was about 20km, and a wee bit of acceleration, and you definitely both hear and feel the supercharger!
One headlight needs fixing, points down, and a small globe on top seems to have gone awol.
After cooling I will check fluids in the morning, and provided all is well, I will fit the under-tray.
It looks like one abandoned SR has been rescued. Minimal cost, maximum work!
Any advice on the niggles are welcome.
Got two messages, park brake and cruise not available.
The park brake warning has gone.
Any advice on the niggles are welcome.
Interesting that the PB message has cleared itself, but not the cruise control. They often appear together if caused by a marginal battery. This thread is more appropriate if you still had both messages, but you may find some helpful info:
06-26-2017, 09:49 AM
