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The short story. SR 2003 abandoned after pulley came loose. Been standing in the field for 3 years. As a collector of stray animals, I took this under my wing.
Now for the repairs.
I lifted the car up to have a look under the engine. Sure enough, the pulley sits skew, and no bolt in the front.
The car had no battery, so I fitted a battery and started it up, immediately drove it on to the trailer and took it home. No problem starting.
I plan to get this car mobile and fully functioning using as little money as necessary, and doing what I can myself.
Looked at the front tyres. Finished. Dunlop, still plenty of thread but cracked on the sidewall.
Lifted front, on axle stands, removed front right tyre. Upper wishbone ball joint cover cracked.
Ball joint dust cover upper wishbone.
Found a new cover for less than one Dollar, fitted it with lock wire after greasing the dust cover (boot) and the joint.
Old cover left, upper and lower cover springs above. New cover right
New cover in place with lock wire. You could use long thin cable ties as well, but I didn't have in stock. New cover with lock wire trimmed and bent away from the rubber and turned to the back.
Fully functioning safe repair for one Dollar!
Just a mentioning of the wheel lugs. Utter junk, they will be binned and replaced with something better.
Dimensions of rubber boot. Hole at bottom 16mm, hole top about 35mm.
The short story. SR 2003 abandoned after pulley came loose. Been standing in the field for 3 years. As a collector of stray animals, I took this under my wing.
You, sir, are a brave man and have my utmost respect.
Originally Posted by SRT
Just a mentioning of the wheel lugs. Utter junk, they will be binned and replaced with something better.
These threads may be of interest to you. I'm running the Dorman lug nuts on my '02 and am very pleased with them:
Don't forget you will need a new lug wrench, as the hex size is different. A socket and breaker bar is preferred, as most sockets fit much better than any lug wrench.
Yes, it started straight away! I almost fainted!
Heavy steering (extremely) and obviously n o water pump, generator etc, i quickly got it on the trailer.
Sounded good!!@
As for lug nuts, I wish I knew who to throw them at, but surely some sick joker working at Jaguar, but paid by Mercedes!!
I will throw the standard wrench at him too!
Thanks for the links, went to Toyota, nice lugs, nice price too, eq to 6 Dollars each! I'm trying to squeeze a friend that works for Toyota, let's see what happens.
The job takes about 30 minutes all in all. What I didn't tell you was that I spent 3 hours trying to find the dust cover i bought yesterday!!
oh, the blessings of age.
Still have not found them, had to get new ones, last in stock!
Lexus lug nuts are one piece and fit perfectly. Myself and many others on this board have bought them for less than $1 each on Ebay. You will need a bigger socket than the factory 19mm. It's 21 or 22mm as I recall. An impact socket of that size still fits into the lug nut wells on my Vulcan wheels.
I can hardly believe you found an STR with Brembos like that - wow!
OK, must admit, I thought all R models had those front calipers?
BTW, the disks are in perfect shape, apart from surface rust, no ridges at the edge, perfectly flat by the looks of it, so at one stage they must have been replaced! The pads are in good shape too, so some service must have been done.
The car has 125000 km on the clock.
It has a telephone in the centre console, but a lot of luxuries are missing.
No sun roof, no heated front seats, back seat fixed and a few other oddities.
Space saver red Marie biscuit spare, thrashed with steel wires protruding!
What options?
I don't mind, sun roofs leak, and heated seats not a priority in 35 degrees heat (degrees C!)
Otherwise the interior is good, with slight wear on drivers seat. Light colour with black insert,
Thanks for all suggestions. The transport costs of lugs sent from USA to here is twice the price of the items, add duties and inefficiency of the post office, and it might be questionable if it is worth getting the lugs from there. But I will keep you all posted, and Toyota stuff is usually good quality.
Primary Features Build Date: 05.11.2002 Vehicle Line: Jaguar X200 Body Style: 4 Door Saloon Version: Series 65 Engine: AJ Petrol 4.2 V8 Supercharged Transmission: 6 Speed Auto ZF 6HP26 Steptronic Drive: RHD RWD Emission: EEC 96 Car (EEC 1) Air Conditioning: Automatic Air Conditioning Territory: (+)"ZA" Paint: Midnight
Got the car over my pit and had a look.
At the start of the journey to the center of the universe!
A lot of things to remove!!
My fearless cat came to greet the Jaguar!
She liked it!!
After removing radiator after radiator and a BIG fan, this is what greeted me!
Pulley gone AWOL
I manged to get the pulley out. The bolt was lying in the fan cowling, but no trace of the split collar.
The pulley is held on the crank with a big bolt, that presses a conical split collet into a taper on the pulley, which will force the collet to tighten on the crankshaft.
What has happened is that the pulley has come loose and rotated on the shaft. The collect has worn the taper in the pulley and also the crank.
So fitting an original collet will not work, as it will be impossible to compress the collet to bite on the crank, because the tolerances are out.
I see one option, to machine a collet with thicker material, and to use the best possible type of locking fluid/glue available.
I am not keen on going in there again, and this is the second time this thing has come off.
Any ideas will be welcomed.!!
How to make a foolproof connection between a pulley and a rotating shaft!
I admire your repair of the wheel well liner but I would just replace both of them since we now have a very reasonable price for new and improved wheel well liners.
I have put them on my 2005 STR and they look and fit better than factory. Plus for $25 each you just can't go wrong!
Now these do say 2004-2008 but I still can't find any difference for the 2003 models?
South Africa.
Mail from USA takes a month to get here. Once here it might get lost!
If you get it you will pay duties, and freight from the US would most likely be about several times the cost of the item.
I can get second hand ones here, I'm just too skint to pay for them!
But it sounds like a good deal! I am also after some wheel lugs, and they are also well priced from ebay in the US.
Maybe one day a parcel, who knows.
Don't know the vendor and I am sure they are made in China. I was just surprised at what looks to be a better quality part than stock as well as much cheaper.
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Per the repair, I didn't need to go this far into my XKR while fixing it's new to me issues so I don't know how the crank pulley mounts work. Post up some pics for more relevant ideas.
I would clean up the crank shaft and get some honest micrometer readings over the span of the taper where the collet must compress. Machine a new collet with an internal taper and install it. The durability of the repair is proportional to the time spent making it.
Is there a way to drill and tap the end of the crank? If so a locking ring could be bolted in place so the collet doesn't walk down the taper over time. You could turn a stepped drill guide that would slip over the end of the crankshaft to position the drill bit in the center of the crank. 12 mm thread should suffice for the retention load.
I'm an industrial mechanic and sometimes we need to do unusual things to keep the big printing presses I work on running. I'm not a big fan of epoxy's on loaded shaft couplings. Eventually the epoxy erodes away causing grief. For an unloaded seal journal sleeve, no big deal, but nothing loaded.
The standard fitting is along this way. Normal end to crankshaft, with a split collet in a cone shape, and the pulley has got an inside taper to match.
The assembly is tightened from the end of the crank with a big bolt with a washer flat end.
The bolt forces the pulley over the cone collet on the shaft, in the process locking the collet on the shaft as i is pressed into the taper on the pulley.
Or, at least, that is the theory! On my car the assembly has come loose twice, before I got the car, and most likely is the exact reason they abandoned it! Most likely as a failure of the first repair, there are signs the front cover over the cams have been off, for some reason.
The shaft has worn slightly thinner, I think and the inside taper on the pulley has worn, and that is most likely the reason why it has slipped the second time.
There is also an O-ring mentioned and shown in some pictures, which I can see no use for?
The first time it must have worn all items (shaft, collet and pulley), so the next fit with a new standard collet did not give enough meat to function as required.
Ah, clever... I think the o ring is to seal oil from weeping between the crank journal and the pulley assy. I'm going to assume that the back of the pulley shoulders against a step in the crank. The collar acts like a wedge between the parts and the bolt drives the wedge in and holds it tight.
Since the collar has come loose and washed the mating surfaces on the pulley and crank you either need to push the collar in further or make a new one. To push it further you'd need a spacer ring that will fit over the crank after the collar is driven flush.
385 ft lbs is a huger amount of torque to set the collar. I don't think my 1/2" torque wrench will go that high. I wonder if the last guy just wasn't able to torque it correctly? I'd definitely get a new bolt and make double sure the threads were good in the crank before trying again. That torque setting also begs the question about how hard the collar is. If it's too soft it'll mushroom and if too hard it'll dig into the castings. You could run a file across it to check its hardness.
Ah, clever... I think the o ring is to seal oil from weeping between the crank journal and the pulley assy. I'm going to assume that the back of the pulley shoulders against a step in the crank. The collar acts like a wedge between the parts and the bolt drives the wedge in and holds it tight.
Since the collar has come loose and washed the mating surfaces on the pulley and crank you either need to push the collar in further or make a new one. To push it further you'd need a spacer ring that will fit over the crank after the collar is driven flush.
385 ft lbs is a huger amount of torque to set the collar. I don't think my 1/2" torque wrench will go that high. I wonder if the last guy just wasn't able to torque it correctly? I'd definitely get a new bolt and make double sure the threads were good in the crank before trying again. That torque setting also begs the question about how hard the collar is. If it's too soft it'll mushroom and if too hard it'll dig into the castings. You could run a file across it to check its hardness.
I think the O-ring might well be for that purpose, would it really be necessary?? \
I think the collet is steel, I will machine the new collet out of a section of 50mm tube with an inside bore of 32. Nothing special, just easier to machine.
I know the crank is non hardened on these engines according to the engine repair guide by Jaguar university, and I would not mind a bit of deformation on the surface to better fit the clamp of the collet.
The torque is huge, but the bolt in front is undamaged and shows no sign of elongation at all. It has a mark as if locking fluid has been used on the thread.
I would also suspect that the assembly has been under torqued after a repair, and I think the main problem might have been lack of access, aided and abetted by an inability to keep the crank from moving during torque application.
I will try to get the best fit with the new collet, and make the split in the collet wide enough to prevent the edges touching, during clamping. I cannot see why this would not work, if I get the taper right. The application of chemical locking fluid would perhaps improve the fit.
The trick is to get the dimensions right and take up the lost material inside and outside by increasing the "meat" of the collet.
Apart from the obvious holding ability, there can also be an axial shift in the position of the pulley, if the thickness is not correct, which will affect the belt path.
Anyway, a challenge!
Apart from that, I decided to remove the supercharger to get the cooling hose under the charger replaced. They are know to split and are difficult to get at. I rather do it now than later, and I have found a SS tube I am going to route in the valley under the charger. That should give me peace of mind on that front! The tube had started to deform slightly at the one end, as it turned out. So maybe a good idea, in spite of the enormous amount of time this takes!
Supercharger out, revealing a mouse nest under the charger, and a cooling pipe in the first stage of failure
06-16-2017, 09:54 AM
Rescuing an abandoned SR
Minor Features
